Hello, I've got a '90 DX wagon that the timing belt snapped on. Thinking I knew what I was doing, I jumped into replacing the timing belt. After reassembling everything, the motor turns over but will not start. I made sure to align the cam and set cylinder 1 to TDC. I am wondering what my next step is, since I don't exactly know what's preventing the motor from starting. I made a video to better explain the situation.

View My Video

 

check firing order, got gas and spark?

 

Firing order is correct, as I didn't remove the plug wires since it last ran.
Fuel pump primes, all plugs are firing.

 

Are you sure none of the valves are bent? When did the timing belt snap?

 

See, I am aware that it is an interference motor, but I was under the impression if valves were bent it WOULD run, but like ***. At around 60 MPH, lol.

 

It may just be damaged especially after snapping going 60mph. Who knows what kind of damage could have happened. It does sound like you have everything else taken care of but the motor just may be shot.

 

NOOOOO!

the starter will turn the motor but when the starter stops the engine will stop turning. bent valves will not keep the engine running. there basically is no pressure in the cambers to do any thing even in one cylinder. when you take it off, the bent valve may not even be noticeable right away. it could be just a slight gap.

so it sounds like you have bent valves. it isnt the end of the world. its pretty easy to fix.

 

Ok. I have a spare set of valves I'm unsure if they're from a d16 or b16, came with a crx i bought. Hopefully the weather isn't too cold and i can pull it apart this weekend.

 

Are you getting any hint of combustion, or does it just turn over clean without any attempt to run on its own? What caused the belt to break, and at what RPM did it break?

Does it sound like the engine is freewheeling when you turn it over? All engines will fight the starter on compression, and creates that characteristic starting sound.

I would verify the engine timing and perform a compression test.

 

I'm guessing old age. I had DD'd for about 6 months after i bought it, putting off necessary maintenance that I wish I had done. I was going around 60, so figure maybe 3? On a DX auto tranny. It also has a super JDM fart can, which made hearing combustion quite simple. At my initial key turn, I was almost positive it was going to start, as it sounded exactly the same as before. I'm going to try and run a compression check Saturday, and I will get back with you guys. Thanks for all the help so far!

 

Sorry for getting back so late. Compression numbers were:
Cylinder 1: 160
Cylinder 2: 40
Cylinder 3: 15
Cylinder 4: 40

I bought a known good cylinder head from a buddy and am in the process of swapping it over. So far all that's left is to slip the timing belt on, replace the valve cover, add oil and (hopefully) start it up. My new question is when cylinder 1 is at TDC, what wire should the rotor be at? Kinda realized there's 2 positions it can be in.

If it doesn't run after all this, I'm pulling the ****** and dropping a LS in it!!

 

You take your distributor cap off and make sure the contactor is pointed towards your #1 spark plug wire .And the lines on the cam sprocket are even with the head with the arrow up .You can download a shop manual off the net .Not wagon specific but most of the mechanical stuff is the same .

 

OK, thanks WFTB! I was wondering if it needed to be one 1. Thanks! Having buddies that are a tad bit more experienced then I am help this Sunday. Will check back in.