There is no such thing as long story short with this one

89 Civic HB, 4 spd tranny, not sure about motor, but its DPFI, and motor is stamped ZC, PM5 ecu

1)Noticed I was only running on 3 cylinders, broken distributor cap, replaced.
2)Leaking anti-freeze/coolant, bad thermostat gasket, replaced.
3)Bad Brake Booster and MC, both were replaced, as well as DF Rotor, caliper and mount, and the PF caliper, as well as all pads, yes, no drums, apparently I have Integra Brakes all around.
4)Valves recently adjusted, properly.
5)New Motor/Tranny mounts all around (4)
6)New Spark Plugs/wires
7)New Valve cover gasket/oil pan gasket
8)replaced a burnt out wire in the harness.

Well thats whats been done over the last 3 weeks, as far as I can remember.

Ecu is throwing several codes, 4, 10, 13, and 14, from what I know those are

4=Crank Position Sensor, 10=IAT Sensor (put in a new one), 13=Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (Built into ECU from what I understand) and 14= Electronic Air Control Valve

My main issue is that my engine will not rev past 4000 RPM, and as she warms up, the idle will rise, I have brakes, she doesnt over heat, if I try to force her past 4k rpm (only done this once or twice), she WILL backfire, compression on all cylinders is between 100-110 and I am stumped as to why I can't get over 4k.

For the life of me I can't seem to reset the ecu, I pull the fuse(s) and it won't reset.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Also forgot to mention, fuel filter is new. It doesn't seem to have an issue starting, Alternator is also new due to old one being bad. I may have the 2 wires on the DPFI with the same plastic connectors mixed up, but I don't think I do.

According to a small amount of research a ZC non-VTEC SOHC engine is practically Identical to a d16a6, is that so? and I can't afford a DPFI --> MPFI swap atm, so if its a bad ecu will I need to get another PM5? if so, do the digits at the very end matter ( for instance my current ecu reads *****-PM5-L170.

Sorry for 2 successive posts, I want to be as informative as possible, because well, as I said, I'm stumped.

 

youre in limp mode, thus the rev limit and backfire.

pull fuse and remove battery cable to reset.

 

I have pulled both the 15a ecu fuse and the 10 Hazard fuse, also, battery gets un-grounded every time I leave my car at the moment, due to a 300a kill switch on the batt neg. line. I also want to find a way to ground my ecu around that, so it doesn't get reset every time I pull the battery key. even after pulling fuses, ecu instantly shows the same codes, like it was never reset. I'm thinking bad ecu possibly.

 

unplug ecu for three minutes then?

 

Yep, I've done it any number of ways you can think of, just put in a known good ecu, same issues. Might take it to this place here in town called Hondoctors

 

That code 4(Crank Position Sensor) is for a bad dizzy. I have had this problem before myself and the motor had the same 4K rpm rev limiter. Put in a good distributor and it will correct that low rev limiter issue.

 

I will try to test the dizzy thing tomorrow, before going to the shop.

 

My mechanic also thinks its the Dizzy, is there anything else I'd need to check as well?

 

Ok, so I put in a new dizzy, it will get up to 4000 a lot better, but still cuts right out, I am literally stumped, like not a clue, ECU is still throwing Codes 4, 10,13, and 14 occasionally, Even after resetting the ecu it instantly blinks 10 times, then 10 again, then 13, then it repeats 10 and 13 until I start the engine, then after I try to rev it up it adds code 4, and on occasion 14. I will add pics as soon as I find an ok camera to use, I have a vacuum leak somewhere but I doubt that would cause a rev limiter at 4k.

I have 1 older photo.

 

I hope you didnt buy a new distributor, and you have ecu codes, follow the troubleshooting flows for the codes to resolve them.

if codes come right on for me it usually means those sensors arent plugged in/functional/wiring.

dl a manual if you dont have one.

 

I bought a reman, dizzy, because the old one was having some issues, and now like I said, it isnt sluggish up to 4k like it used to, now itll rev right up and then cut out abruptly. I'm thinking a short or open in my harness somewhere

 

Bump

 

OK, so I've done everything I could possibly think of doing to fix this, either there is a short in between the ecu and CPS or a short elsewhere not letting me reset my ecu, and nobody can make up their minds on where the damn Crank Position Sensor is located, If its in the dizzy, its been replaced with the new dizzy, if not apparently its down near the crank under the timing belt cover.

I really need to get my car out of limp mode. Please Help

 

It's in the dizzy.

Like someone else mentioned, if the code flashes before you crank the motor then its likely there sensor is unpluged or somehow otherwise disconnected/malfunctioning.

Download a manual and follow the flow chart in order to diagnose and repair the issue.

 

It gives me codes 10 and 13 before starting, and then it throws code 4 after I start the car.

 

WOO HOO!!!! No more CEL lights!!! Car feels like its running great, and looks like it, other than the puffs of white smoke I get on occasion, usually while accelerating from a dead stop. My mechanic thinks it may be my valve guide seals? or possibly my piston rings, going to do a wet compression test this Saturday, with a dry compression test its 100 PSI across all 4 cylinders. any ideas anybody?

 

Not sure on what numbers you should be seeing with a ZC, but if they're all within 10 psi of each other you should be ok.

I actually posted to tell you to inform us of what you did to fix the problem. This will help future searchers.

 

I had a few wires that somehow got disconnected at my ECU I believe it was pin C16 to be exact, Got a new header, cat, and catback exhaust, should be here round the 12th
thinking my injectors are probably old and worn out, making it run a little too rich.