So my stock EG 4 door EX motor wise is burning a quart of oil a week now, Z6 has 227,000 miles on it. Looking at swaps on hmotors and other JDM importers and can't decide what swap to buy. Looking for best horsepower per dollar here. Looking to retain all my amenities like AC/PS. Any advice from some fellow HT guys? Car is mainly used for commuting and occasionally auto-x.
Thanks

 

Budget and goal for HP?

Otherwise this is an opinion poll not tech.

 

Budget is about $2500 HP goal is 170whp

 

Please start by carefully reading relevant links in the FAQs sticky, and also exploring the Hybrid forum and the Forced Induction forum. Then you will be able to return to this thread with specific technical questions.

 

GS-R swap is probably what you want for the power you want to make along with the desire to keep AC and power steering. That said you'll never get it from Hmotors from $2500. Consider other importers or buying a swap private sale or increase your budget.

 

turbo d-series. or b20v they're pretty cheap and can net high number off the get go(high comp 99-00 b20).

 

yeah most def! we have a importer north of my state in Virigina and I believe they have the swaps for around $2500-$2700 picked up for a GSR so probably going that route. Hmotors shipping would kill me from Cali to North Carolina. yeah I thought the gsr would be the best option because the b16 is not much less than a gsr but people complain of just no torque period, and others say the ITR swap is like perfect it is just not the perfect price range for me. Only reason i ask this question is because I have never had a stock motor swap since I got into hondas, everything has been modded and turbo for me lol. This is my 1st simple swap/setup.

 

no turbo anything haha, just came from my 3rd turbo setup last year, had everything from 260hp b16's to 400hp turbo hi comp b16's on E85 and my last setup was a rod/piston GSR making 430whp on 93 pump. In conclusion they were all fast in their own right and would lay waste to any car on the freeway just about, but in the end I found myself bored with the setups or sometimes problematic. Cars weren't very usable in many areas other than drag racing or freeway pulls or just scaring the ish outta your friends. Need some fun and peppy to drive around town, tear up a few back country roads on the weekend and take the dog to the vet and still hit up the auto-x course or VIR and have the wife not complain about the car not having AC lol! /Rant sorry got carried away.

 

Then you were using the wrong turbos. A smaller, ball bearing turbo will be perfectly useable anywhere. That said, if you really want to stay NA, 170 can be had from a tuned GSR swap, but you would need to stretch your budget a bit more for it.

 

well I had larger power goals back then, I was into going fast and beating vettes and going to the dragstrip, so I knew a smaller turbo wouldn't meet my power goals I was trying to obtain on pump gas:/ 59mm turbo on a b16 or the 60-1 on the gsr wasn't much to brag about till 5,000rpms in most cases Also my budget wouldn't allow it 30R is about $1400 no bueno haha.
I found a local guy selling a ITR swap for cheap just need to compression test it and look it over.

 

GSR swap will work. Use a CR-V AC bracket to retain AC. 170whp would be about 20-30 more WHP than stock. So maybe I/H/E and a tune....probably some mild cams as well. Something like stock ITR cams and an intake manifold would probably get you there or better after the I/H/E.

 

If the ITR swap that guy is selling is within your budget, then there you go. Keep in mind, you'll need more than just the motor. You'll also need the transmission, a couple of mounts, and an ECU. I don't believe a USDM OBD-I ITR motor exists, so you'll need to get a chipped ECU setup for that motor.

 

the motor includes the trans. yeah I know I need mounts, shift linkage,axles, intermediate shaft.obd1 injectors, obd1 alternator and I think that about covers it other than the CR-V AC bracket, and B series AC compressor. my car is a EX model so it has a virgin p28 just need my tuner to chip it and tune when its ready. This motor should make 170whp no problem because it has the CR bumped up a bit from the pistons that are in the motor, I believe it's 12:1 from what the owner told me. But yeah looking at a ....
plm toda replica header
short ram intake with a velocity stack
and a good tune should net me well over 170whp
yonaka ws2 exhaust

not too hung up on dyno numbers as they are just numbers and the dyno is but a mere tuning tool. As long as the car gets great MPG and hauls ***** for what it is I am happy.

 

thanks for the advice I forgot all about needing the CR-V bracket!

 

If good gas mileage is what you want, a 12:1 ITR swap is definitely not the way to go. Also, $400 for a full ITR swap? I'd be wondering what all is wrong with it. The transmission alone goes for more than that. Realistically, you'll get ~20 MPG, and you'll have to run premium.

Turbos are good for more than just going fast. A small turbo will also send your gas mileage through the roof. My Y7, with DSM 440's on 10PSI from a 15G, made 48 highway MPG. That's not a typo - 48 miles to the gallon, verified over multiple long trips.

If you really are dead-set on a swap for performance while maintaining gas mileage, and staying NA, Get a B18C1 (GSR motor) and have your tuner work the map over for gas mileage. Leaning out your AFR's a little bit can be done safely to increase gas mileage. If you really want to get fancy, slap an LS transmission on it, lengthen your ratios.

 

You don't use the B-series compressor, that's the idea behind the CR-V bracket, it lets you bolt up a D-series compressor.

 

dunno where you got the info on the gas mileage for a higher compression NA motor, if your tuner knows what he is doing, i've seen NA setup with higher comp get 30-40+mpg no problem. Also I never stated what I was paying for the ITR swap but it's def not $400 lol.

 

OEM rated gas mileage is 22/28. Fuelly rating is 25. Getting better gas mileage out of a motor involves leaning it out, and leaning out a wet sleeve motor on 12:1 compression is a horrible idea. 40MPG? Whatever you're smoking, please share with the rest of the class.

 

Technically he is correct that more compression gives better gas mileage, but fuel it self becomes an issue. Pump gas sucks too much to be able to run with 12:1 and still be that efficient. You end up having to pull timing which means you lose that fuel efficiency.

 

http://www.carolinahondas.com/rlz-en...-rlz-tune.html

take a look through this thread, a few local guys all tuned by Howard of RLZ engineering and their MPG results. I've seen plenty of NA setups high compression leaned out plenty under very light throttle conditions you won't hurt the motor if you know how to tune. Ever drove a high CR all motor car? You barely have to crack the throttle open to get the car to move itself along.