So I just changed the gasket on the Vtec Solenoid because I had the code for it. The car was having trouble under load getting up to speed. Thought this would fix it. Just had the 2nd and 3rd clutch pressure switches replaced. Codes also say I have a deteriorating Cat.

Here is a video on youtube of what is happening. Does anyone have any idea of what is going on and where I should start?


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Turns out it was a Catalytic converter that had deteriorated, and was choking the motor :shrug

Anyways, it cost m $173 for the cat, $5 bucks in nuts and bolts, and $14 to rent a bay with a lift and some power tools at my local army base car care shop. In less than an hour I had it changed out and problem solved

Thanks to all here for the help!!!

 

It looks like your car is in limp mode. It won't go past 4k when you are. You need to pull all codes and fix them or atleast the ones that are throwing your car into limp mode.

 

So you have code P0420? That just means the catalyst efficiency is below specified threshold. This does not mean the catalyst is at fault, if there is a problem with combustion, the output of the catalyst will be greatly affected.

With the car stuttering, this seems that VTEC is not engaging and the engine stuck in low-lift mode is just choking. As Holmes stated it probably is in limp mode, find out why.

Verify that there is full oil in the crankcase and the VTEC pressure switch is functional. These two items will also prevent VTEC engagement.

 

Mad Mike, that's what I thought, but after changing the gaskets I thought that would fix it. I have to take a closer look at the solenoid now I guess. I saw an earlier post that showed how to check it with a voltmeter but didn't know what the reading was supposed to be. You have any idea?

I took it in to an indie shop and they pulled some codes. Don't have the paper right now but they were:

2nd /3rd clutch pressure switch <- replaced
Vtec Solenoid malfunction <- replaced gasket, but didn't test. Screen was full of gunk
Evap system leak <- old code that I had him clear, added a new gas cap and now praying on this one
Cat problem <- done nothing.

Going to test the solenoid this weekend, but will probably just replace it.

 

Changed out the solenoid for a new one. Found oil in one of the sparkplugs from a torn gasket. replaced the gasket and the spark plug. Still getting the studdering when I try to give it some gas. Now I'm thinking it may be a fuel delivery problem, cause I pulled the plugs and they are white. They have only been in for about 5 days. The old ones were white and crusty. Any thoughts?

 

White and crusty indicate moisture usually has gotten on the plugs especially if there white and you see little dots on the plugs. It's seems your more at a loss of power. If you have a cat code it could be a bad cat and it's plugged and build bad exhaust pressures choking the engine on the exhaust side.

 

White crusty spark plugs = lean burn condition. This could also throw a P0171 System too lean code. Are all 4 plugs in the same condition? Could be a low fuel pressure issue or another thing to look at would be your valve adjustment.

Is this a stock engine or have you made any modifications to it?

 

There are two items, the VTEC solenoid which is what you have checked, but also a oil pressure switch which is mounted lower in the base that the VTEC solenoid mounts too. It's unclear if you checked that switch.
Exact codes would be more helpful. Often times a description is not the same as what the actual code is.

Would you be able to post a picture of your spark plugs?

 

I didn't check the oil pressure switch. I have to find it and test it.

These are the codes that were pulled:
P1259 VTEC system Problem <-replaced the vtec solenoid
P0420 Cat Converter Efficiency low #1
P1456 Evap system leak
P1738 2nd cluch press swx <- replaced
P1739 3rd clutch press swx <- replaced

Will post pics of plugs if I can find them out in the trash.

 

Here are some pics of the plugs



Same plug just turned a bit



Horrible shots on these but you get hte gist

And then it looks like something is leaking pretty bad.

 

Those bad boys look like they have been run hot, been put through some really fouled up fuel, or light oil leak (valve guides).

Have you done a compression test on the cylinders? Might want to check and make sure that your exhaust valves aren't burnt up.


Just throwing out a question here. Why is it that when a lot of people seem to be having engine trouble, or the check engine light is on, they always want to floor it or run it as hard as it will go?

 

Backside, #12

http://engine-codes.com/p1259_honda.html
Check the wire harness for any damage as well.
Covered the VTEC, investigate

Ignore the P0420 code for now as improper combustion will cause threshold issues. Crappy input nets crappy output = p0420 Catalyst can't fix an out of tune car.

P1456, this I believe is related to fuel tank evap. Could be caused by a loose fuel cap or a faulty gas cap. Remove it, check the O-ring for cracks, if you can have it vacuum tested. If not remove, clean, reinstall and spin it till it clicks a few times. If the fuel fill closet is full of crud and junk, go to a coin-op car wash, open the door(leave the gas cap on tight) and blast all the crud out.

Clutch pressure switches are known to go bad on these ATs. Would be surprised if the issue came back.

And there is your P0420 issue. Combustion is being fouled by oil. If the spark plug tubes have no oil in them, then oil is being introduced into the engine internally. Either through a faulty PCV valve, sloppy valve guides, or worn piston rings.
Easiest thing to check would be PCV valve, and the inlet ventilation tube that attaches to the air intake before the throttle body. Pull both hoses off and verify there is no excessive oil intrusion. PCV valve should rattle when you shake it, if not clean it with a carb/MAF cleaner, if it still does not rattle when shook, replace.

Second item to check would be compression, if compression is fine/even then the rings are fine and the guides/guide seals may be worn. If there is a difference, more likely a ring problem.

And the oil leak is probably from the valve/cam cover gasket leaking down the backside of the head/block.

 

Because I-talian cars?
FIAT/Alfa/Ferrari, older ones with carbs, when owners wouldn't drive em right the plugs would get all carbon fouled. So, easiest thing to do would be to redline the engines and burn off the carbon. Car would run like a top afterwards. Thus the Italian Tune-Up.

In all seriousness, I think people think you can 'clear up' running issues by driving the begesus out of a vehicle. IOTW thick skulled. Older neighbor had a Jeep of some 80's vintage, swore up and down it just needed 'a lil heat n'it' to fix it running rough. Would sit out in the street revving it to high heaven, soon as he was off the throttle it would die. Was against checking codes, checking TPS, IAC, etc. During the summer it ran, winter it would not run without throttle input. Still ran like crap either way, when it ran.

Hell, I wonder how some folks can drive a car that has an obvious exhaust manifold/gasket leak. That would drive me bonkers hearing it.

 

The tubes have no oil in them. I'm praying it's not worn rings I will check the PCV valve and compression tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time Mad Mike.

 

So I didn't want to wait till morning, so I did the compression test. Here is what I got:

215 - 205 - 200 - 197

Shook the PCV valve and it rattled.

Trying to find what is normal compression on this car.

BTW this car was purchased as a 3rd vehicle so not my daily driver. I bought it with 160k on the odo. AFAIK it's bone stock.

 

Nominal = 178 Psi
Minimum = 135 Psi
Max variation between cylinders = 20 Psi

I'm guessing by those numbers you did your compression test with the throttle body closed or with wet cylinders (oil in the cylinders).

 

Held the throttle body open. I didn't have any oil on the end of the tool.

 

That is a bit on the high side, oil in the cylinders would cause high compression, but that also shows your rings are holding, so they are most likely fine. Just have to find out where the oil may be coming from.
Did you check it for being oil fouled? Did you check the vacuum tube hooked to the intake?
The valve may rattle but if it has a bit of gunk inside it, will not allow it to seal properly and the engine may be ingesting oil through it. Blast it with some cleaner and verify the hose is not full of oil. Also check the other breather hose is not full of oil.

Have you noticed any oil loss?

 

I checked the vacuum tube to the intake and it looked fine no oil.

I'll hit the PCv with some cleaner today.

The oil loss is a problem. Looked like the valve cover was leaking so I replaced the gasket. Then found that the solenoid was leaking so fixed that. But it still hasn't been running right long enough to find out if those were my only sources of oil loss. From the looks of one of those plugs it looks like I'm burning oil somewhere. But if the compression is holding then where could it be from?

 

So I took it to the dealer and paid the diag fee to help figure it out. They unbolted the cat ran the car and it ran fine. they said they looked inside and it is deteriorating. Soooo they say it would cost me 1200 to go with factory replacement or 800 to go with aftermarket.

If those are bolt on I can do that myself if I have a lift. Why would it be so much if Cats from Autozone range between $200 and $400? Is there something special you have to do or can I really just unbolt it?

 

I had feeling it would be something like that. Hows your coolant level etc? Perhaps you need to do a leak down test to check. Compression testing i great but a leak down would be the last leg of testing an internal engine failure.

 

Just have to get a bolt in style catalyst, only 'problem' will be if your car is CA then it can sometimes be a PITA to get the correct one. Otherwise it is simply unbolt/bolt in. + gaskets and maybe hardware if yours is rusted.

 

Yeah that's what I figured. Still trying to figure out why they wanted to charge $855 to replace it. Bought a direct fit aftermarket cat and new o2 sensor. Going to put those on tomorrow and see if that really fixes the problem.

 

Turns out it was a Catalytic converter that had deteriorated, and was choking the motor :shrug

Anyways, it cost m $173 for the cat, $5 bucks in nuts and bolts, and $14 to rent a bay with a lift and some power tools at my local army base car care shop. In less than an hour I had it changed out and problem solved

Thanks to all here for the help, Mad Mike, Ghost Accord and spoonhatch!!!

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed and it didn't cost you your first born.

Keep an eye on the oil consumption/burning in your combustion chamber. It could very well have been the cause of your premature catalyst failure.