ok so im doing my lower ball joints and wheel bearings soon but i noticed my inner and outter tierods seem shitty.. i did a aftermarket steering rack with aftermarket outters last year but the inners boots are ripped and tangeled and the outter ball joints seem shitty i was wondering if i should get some oem outters and inners or just the inner boots? im not sure if the inners need replacing what do u guys think

 

should i get some oem?? these llok kinda flat

 

boots totally ripped

 

boot is tangeled??

 

also is this normal for my caliper piston to be out like this?

 

any input would be great guys

 

replace all 4 with OEM Honda ones they're a bit pricy compare to cheap partstore brands but well worth it. Also Dafuq does that happen to your boot ? get new boots also.

 

really so its worth getting the oem inners too? i was pretty sure about the otters sunce oem balljoints are awsome but i didnt think the inners made a difference since theres no ball joint

 

Oil/grease will make rubber soft, it looks like your boot that's all torn up is drenched in oil. I would probably address that oil issue while replacing that boot. I haven't noticed much difference between aftermarket & OEM boots, but I have noticed a difference between dry and oil/grease soaked boots.

Your other boot that's tangled up is most likely a result of whomever did your alignment. It looks like they adjusted your inner tie rod without loosening the clamp on your rack & pinion boot, so the boot twisted with the tie rod while it was being turned.

 

That boot twisting happened because whoever did your alignment afterwards wasn't paying attention to what they were doing, and fucked that **** up. Yes, you should replace your inners and outers. OEM is obviously the best, but for parts like that, I would go through NAPA instead. I have NAPA outers in my current car, I had NAPA outers in my old 91 Accord, and I've put NAPA outers in both of the Subaru's without any problems.

Something does seem off about that caliper slider, too. Disassemble and reassemble that caliper, look for anything damaged or out of the ordinary, check your pad depth, reassemble, and bleed.

 

yea i wonder whats wrong with my caliper

 

Nothing's wrong with the caliper, it's supposed to stick out like that. It's just missing a rubber boot that slides onto the end of it. See that groove below the bolt head? That groove is what holds the rubber boot on.

Go to your parts store and buy a brake hardware kit, it'll be around five bucks and will have the boot.

 

dam i just totaled everything up on megestic honda inners outters and boots $212 lol

 

Worth it, do it right the first time I've used cheap parts in the past they either didn't fit or broke soon after. Then I was out money and time to do it over.

 

I'm a fan of Moog suspension parts. If you can wait, order through Rock Auto. It cost me half of the price of Advance to rebuild my entire front end.

I'll give you the same speech I gave when I used to sell auto parts. If you plan on keeping the car for a while get OEM or high end aftermarket. If you aren't just get the cheaper stuff because more than likely it will last the year or so you have to car.

 

is the caliper pin supposed to spin? cuz its not really moving.. the bolt on the end comes off tho

 

Looks like your boot is missing.

No, the caliper pin should not spin. It holds the sleeve in position.
This is a rigid assembly. The caliper slides over the sleeve. Don't
forget to grease the slide (sleeve) when you put on the new boot(s).
A light touch of anti-seize lube on the slide pin threads will prevent it from seizing.

 

Anti sieze is not grease. It has very bad lubricity. People slather anti sieze on clutch splines and brake parts....and its an awful idea. It gets gummed up into little anti sieze ***** as it dries up.

Anti sieze is not grease. I believe it's composed of aluminum and pieces of crushed glass. It's not a lubricant for sliding surfaces. It's an anti corrosion paste for static surfaces.

Grease is grease. Either high temp brake grease or honda high temp urea grease should be used on pins after cleaning them with brake cleaner, a rag, and a wire brush if needed.

 

Caliper pins should spin and move freely on their own, actually. The caliper is what keeps them from spinning.

 

LOL where did you possibly get those ideas about anti-seize? Anti-seize is a lubricant with additional properties to prevent seizing under high pressure or high heat. Since brakes get hot, there's nothing wrong with using an anti-seize compound on the slider pins. Yes, it's lubricity is lower than that of grease. Rule of thumb - if it needs lubrication to move, you use grease. If it needs lubrication to prevent getting stuck, it gets anti-seize.

 

Anti sieze is not of adequate lubricity for brake caliper pins. It doesn't stay a homogeneous paste. It becomes gritty and sticky over time as surfaces slide back and forth over it.

It's not a lubricating grease.

 

Is there anti sieze on moving parts from the factory? Or is there grease there?

 

From the factory, there is brake lubricant, which is a grease/anti-seize compound.

 

Does honda use anti sieze or grease on caliper pins from the factory?

Here's an excerpt from a loctite data sheet:
"CAUTION: LOCTITE Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant is not a high-speed load carrying lubricant and should not be used on ball or roller bearings, or on parts where lubrication is critical."

Its not for use on parts that need lubrication. Shafts that slide in and out of holes need lubrication. How is this not as obvious as the sexual innuendo in my last sentence?

Anti sieze is also abrasive. It's for anti corrosion on static parts. Like bolts inside bushing holes or threads. Only real use for sliding parts is for sliding parts with very loose tolerances. Not for caliper pins.

 

Lol brake lubricant is not an anti sieze compound dude. Just admit you're wrong. Most feeble backpaddle attempt ever.