Alright I'm thinking about going with a different setup these days but I am still unsure if I'm going to benefit. I have always been B but with all the combinations that are available now I might venture into something I'm unfamiliar with.

My current setup is a B18C block with LS crank and rods, 81.5mm PCT pistons, PR3 head ported, CTR cams, supertech valve springs and retainers, Skunk2 cam gears, ITR intake manifold and throttle body, PLM 4-1 header.

I am thinking of an F20B engine with my LSD ITR 4.7 f/d tranny. Will I benefit any from this swap as this is my dd. And this may not be a question that can be answered but will I notice any power gain with a near stock F20 over my current setup?

 

IMO it would not be beneficial to spend the time and money going into a stock f20b. Again that is MY opinion. I'm sure there will be others who disagree. If you were to upgrade the cams in your current setup to something like pro 2's or m24xx's you would see the best performance gains for the money.
Going to an H2B would be the better choice interms of performance/money spent

 

Why is everyone so wet on the F2B?

Just go H22 or H23 Vtec (Bluetop) and you will make a LOT more power than that GSR.

i have had H22 (ebay megan header, stock longblock, ran 7.6 in the 1/8th mile in a full body daily driven crx, cable b16 trans)

I also had a EG hatch daily driven with H23 Vtec Bluetop put out 240 whp on a conservative dynojet. with Logic header and Type S Cams, And skunk intake mani.

I'd definitely go with the H2B (Either H22 or H23). and you can get the longblocks for a lot less than a GSR. you can sell your GSR longblock and still have extra $$.

Whatever you decide to go with good luck on it.

post up if you decide to go H2B with a build thread or something. its always cool to see new builds. If you have any questions along the way feel free to PM me also.

 

Initially I thought about an H22 but as far as the swap goes I was hoping not to have to spend much if any out of pocket. I just picked up another project (eg hatch) that I was wanting to start soon so that's why I was thinking the F20. They seem to be cheaper is the only reason. But I guess if I were to go through the trouble of swapping I should go for the most power out of the box to make it worth it. I'm still in debate right now but if I decide to do it I'll definitely post up a build thread for this and I'll probably start one for you guys when I start my hatch project as well.

 

Agreed on the stock F20 swap. And as far as my current cam setup I have thought of investing but I was afraid of p2v clearance with something like a pro 2. I know to clay it before running it but I'm afraid of getting them and being stuck if I have issues

 

You could always run a thicker HG and do some custom valve relief/dome mods on those pistons. it's been don successfully more times than not. Just a thought

 

It already has a thicker gasket. I measured it when I had the head off last time and I got .049" thick. But not sure if thats thick enough to run a bigger lift cam without modding the valve pockets?

 

You do realize that's the thickness BEFORE you torque it down right? It WILL be thinner when installed.

 

h23v > f20, b18c

b series is already pretty good. If you're gonna do all the work to change to the bigger displacement engine why not max it out? Stock H23A is surprisingly powerful.

 

Yea that was the measurment decompressed. When it's torqued I know it will compress some, but i'm not sure by how much.

 

And what I'm saying is there are HG's out there that will measure .050-.075 compressed.

 

F20b isn't worth the trouble, might as well do b20 vtec if that's the case. Go with h22a red top or if you don't plan to rev high, h23a blue top. F20b seems to perform more or less like b20 vtecs, and they have 1mm bigger valves than the gsr/pr3 heads, 1mm bigger bore, and higher compression. My tuner tuned a h23 with a full PDE(best of h series)head and it was almost even with my boy's b20 vtec with buddy club cams and e85. The h23 is in a late model CB accord with longer gears. It has a strong torqueband.

 

i will be running a f20b f2b set up in the next month or so i personally like the f20b most will say the 10ft lbs less that it makes compared to the h22 isnt worth it but the 1.65 r/s ratio 11:1 compression iron sleeves and beefier stock rods and rod bolts plus the 300-400 dollar difference is a plus in my book but its all personal preference i guess

 

f2b setups i have seen usually make around the 197 198 range with around 147-150 tq not bad. of course this is with skunk2 or euro r mani h2b header good exhaust

 

Yea the price difference sounds nice to me but in doing this I would sell my long block so that should be more than enough to cover the swap either way I go. But the more I think about it I think I'm just gonna go with a set of cams in my current setup and a tune. That I think will be the most cost effective and easiest change I can make.