I'm a bit baffled by this car since I'm not familiar with Hondas. This car has the H23A1 engine which I've read is non VTEC, but this car has VTEC. When I start the car it idles at 2k then lowers to ~700-800 after warming up, I've been told this is normal but I'd like to have that verified if able. I'm also trying to figure out if everything is hooked up properly with the intake and fuel injection systems. I'll upload pictures in the next day or two when I have time and daylight.

 

If you have VTEC then it is not an H23A1. However, it is quite possible that you could have a JDM H23A, that was VTEC where the US H23A1 was non VTEC. Ether way it is not original to your Accord.

The engine code can be found stamped on the block just above the center engine mount to the left of the exhaust manifold.


The engine code is the lower yellow highlighted area. This one is an F22B2. You can just see the upper rad hose on the left and exhaust manifold on the right in this picture.

Once you post up some pictures it may be easier to tell what engine you have.

 

This is the normal operation of the cold start function. There is a Fast Idle Thermo Valve, referenced as the FITV. It is a thermostatically controlled valve that allows air to bypass the closed throttle body butterfly. It is directly controlled by the temperature of the coolant, once the engine begins to warm up the valve starts to close, lowering the idle speed.

There is also the Idle Air Control Valve, IACV or IAC. Which is an electro-magnet solenoid that is controlled by the computer to maintain a desired idle speed via the ECU/PCM.

 

The stamp says H23A1. Here is an article shown to me by my stepdad who is helping me work and research this possible Franken Engine. http://forum.92lude.com/showthread.php?t=1234

My main concern lies in what was stated in the second reply about the engine not staying together for a long period of time seeing as how this is not a race car and I'm not trying to buy another car any time soon.

I'm also experiencing transmission issues, 5th gear is being spit out while maintaining speed. While accelerating or decelerating it stays in gear and the issue is only with 5th gear. I do need to replace the release bearing and passenger side axle seal.

 

That second post was also made almost 10 years ago. A lot of the Hybrid H22/H23 builds are just as reliable as the factory engines. As long as they are done properly using quality parts. There in lies the real issue. Most times these swaps are done on the cheap!

As long as you're not burning or leaking oil & or coolant and the engine is running good. You should be fine.

As far as the transmission goes, it sounds like your 5th gear syncro or shift fork is on it's way out. So if you are looking to replace the bearing and seal... you might want to look into another transmission or a rebuild while you have it out. Have the clutch and flywheel checked out at the same time.

 

I had an oil consumption problem for the first week or two after buying the car, but after an oil change and using a bottle of Engine Restorer my oil consumption has pretty much ceased and I get better fuel economy. The only leak right now is from the passenger side axle seal, its a small leak and every Saturday I get to throw the car on a rack at the shop my step dad works at so we check everything while its up.

We were going to do a shifter cable adjustment, do you think this would be in vain or is it worth a shot?

We were considering picking up another transmission at the local pick-a-part, because otherwise we'd be dumping a good lot of money in to a rebuild. It's a toss up though, because we have no idea why the car is in the junkyard we could save money and get screwed with a bad tranny or get the rebuild and pay a lot and be set.

 

The 92-93 accords and 4th gen preludes all have the notorious 5th gear grind and subsequent popout. Just avoid those years if you're going to pull another one.

 

Well now the car is in the shop. I went for a drive around the block today and shifting 1st to 2nd it revved up high then grinded and chugged to a stop. It had to be dragged on to the bed of the tow truck and the operator had to use some tricks to get it off. The front end is completely seized up, we couldn't even push it down hill with 3 guys.

 

That sucks to hear. Feel free to keep us updated.

 

Ouch, keep us updated

 

Apparently the leak coming from the right axle seal was so bad that my transmission seized up from lack of oil. Definitely my fault for not checking and getting it fixed, but the lesson has been learned.

 

The clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate all got wasted when the transmission seized up. They're putting in a used transmission out of the same year, unfortunately I didn't get to talk to the guy so I'm a little bitter that I wasn't able to tell to him about the issue stated in reply #7. He's been speaking with my stepdad who is paying upfront since I don't have that kind of money laying around so I can later pay him back. The new tranny has 115k on it and it has a 65k warranty that requires no deductible. I told them to do a shifter cable adjustment while they're digging in it and the tech just seemed like he was pissed off with the car, saying he'd have to take off the exhaust and all this other garbage. So far I'm up to $2,200 and I'll be happy if it doesn't go over $3,000.