Search quickly and didn't find a whole lot. Heres what happened. driving home tonight in sub 0 weather. car has been running like a champ. Did a full tune up minus wires because they were fairly new when i got the car about 5k ago. used ngk plugs and beck arnly cap and rotor. when i did the tune up it would miss a little on hills and thats why i did it. fixed my problem. about 5 miles from home the car just statred missing like no other. stopped looked over and didnt see any thing wrong. drove it home getting a flashing cel. Pulled the codes with my reader and got a p1399. no other codes. where should i start. Car dosent burn oil. it might lose 1/2 quart over 5k miles. was running very strong before this hapended.

 

You replaced the plugs, cap and rotor correct? The wires are fairly new, I'd check the coil next. It's not uncommon for those to go.

 

yep new cap rotor and plugs. how much do coils run. i might pull it apart and look at it. its just so dang cold.

 

If you need to replace the coil, I believe the OEM part is made by Hitachi and will probably run you about $70.

 

What year and model is your Civic? Also double and triple check that your plug wires are hooked up properly and in the right order.

 

its a 99 with a y7. its a VP same as dx just ac and power locks

 

Replace the plug wires (OEM) and then go from there.

 

The proper firing order is 1-3-4-2. Standing in front of the car, the cylinders are numbered 1-4 from right to left.

Standing on the passenger side of the car looking at the distributor, the bottom left is for cylinder 1 and goes clockwise 3-4-2 from there ending with the bottom right.

Make sure they are hooked up correctly.

 

i know the plug wires are hooked up right because it started this when driving. Is there a way to test the pulg wires before i buy a set. i know they are no more than 2 years old. money is a bit tight right now due to school.

 

What brand are the plug wires?

 

Ill check and post back in the morning

 

no start this morning. stumbles but never will run on it own. fuel pump is priming and sounds alright. Plug wires are autolite and look to me in decent condition. I did not see any burn marks on the tube like it was arcing out. Wheres my nexts testing step. I cant get the car in garage and its -3 outside. Life is so fun.

 

Cut your losses and buy OEM Honda plug wires and then check for spark at all 4 spark plugs. Spark should be bright white.

Did you install the NGK spark plugs recommended in the owner's manual? Are they properly gapped?

 

yes on NGK plugs. what i dont get its is I was running 45MPH and it was like a switch got flipped and it started missing. I thought wires would slowly go bad.

 

This^ generalized assumption is wrong.

Check for spark.

Our Civics don't do well on crappy plug wires.

If there's no spark, also Ohm test the coil and have AutoZone test the ICM.

 

New plug wires and now it runs. Couldnt get Honda plugs. got duralast with lifetime warranty. ran better and test drove had no misses. laid in to and ran to red line and got the p1399 again and misses. not bad but they were there. I forsure had a bad plug wire. whats the next steps. Coil?

 

Ive replaced ever ignition part there is. New ngk plugs. new duralast wires. couldnt get honda wires. New distributor. back story. had a wire go bad last week got a new set car ran better but still didnt feel right and a p1399 and a p0302 sometimes. but a miss is still there. injector specs in at 12 ohms. new fuel filter. What now. the miss is so slight so i dont think its a compression issue and it only happens sometimes. Its a all stock y7. What now?

 

Just did a compression test had 170 across the board

 

Good fuel pressure. Im at a lost

 

Only one thread is allowed per topic. Related threads merged.

 

a search around the forum showed:
p1399 is a random misfire code and honda has reported for various models that this could be caused by clogged egr ports, in addition there is the possibility that the valve clearance spec may be out of range

I would also recommend checking injectors (noid light) and fuel pressure (I rented a pressure tester from auto parts store).
Then onto the EGR, test the voltage at EGR and then EGR valve itself.