engine compatible to swap?
Hello guys, I'm look to find a engine for my 2000 honda civic ex that got a piston shot out the bottom. I'm having trouble finding the right engine for it, which is the D16Y8 engine so I was wondering what other engine will work on my car? I'm not trying to race or do any mods. i just want a simple plug and play engine and I dont mind any simple mods that I have to do to make the engine fit. So the question is what engines work on my car?
2000 Honda civic ex automatic 2 door. Thanks Guys!!
2000 Honda civic ex automatic 2 door. Thanks Guys!!
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Try either ebay or an auto wrecker. D16Y8's have been on the rise, price wkse. I wouldn't say craigslist is always a very good source for these things because....why is someone selling a "perfectly good" motor? Sometimes the reasons are legitimate. Sometimes they're selling a blown motor disguised as a good one.
An auto wrecker is a more reliable source.
An automatic D16Y8 will drop in with 0 mods.
A manual one will require you to swap the intake manifold and the sensors over from your old one.
or D16Z6 will work as well. You will need your intake manifold and sensors. You will need your old distributor, and you will need to perform the CKF trick (google it). The CKF trick only works if your state's emission testing is just a plug in test. It won't work in CA, for example, where the sensor actually has to be accounted for. If the CKF sensor actually needs to be there, you will need a Y8 oil pump and will need to transfer over your CKF sensor.
You can also search for a JDM swap. You will need to do the same mods as I described for the Z6 swap. www.jdmenginescorp.com if you wanna browse JDM D series long blocks.
An auto wrecker is a more reliable source.
An automatic D16Y8 will drop in with 0 mods.
A manual one will require you to swap the intake manifold and the sensors over from your old one.
or D16Z6 will work as well. You will need your intake manifold and sensors. You will need your old distributor, and you will need to perform the CKF trick (google it). The CKF trick only works if your state's emission testing is just a plug in test. It won't work in CA, for example, where the sensor actually has to be accounted for. If the CKF sensor actually needs to be there, you will need a Y8 oil pump and will need to transfer over your CKF sensor.
You can also search for a JDM swap. You will need to do the same mods as I described for the Z6 swap. www.jdmenginescorp.com if you wanna browse JDM D series long blocks.
As far as direct "plug in and go", you'll want to get the same motor. The motor itself doesn't have to come from an automatic - you can swap your intake manifold assembly over to the replacement engine to maintain your sensors. A D16Z6, like serious said, can work as well, with minimal finagling.
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Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Forgot to mention that you'll also have to find a place for the knock sensor to go if you did a Z6 or JDM swap.
No, not at all, for more reasons than one.
The Y7 uses a different ECU, along with a handful of other parts. You can't drop in the Y7 without also swapping over the ECU and those other parts. Since your car is an automatic, that brings you to the next issue - the Transmission Control Unit. The TCU is integrated into the ECU. LX and EX transmissions have different gear ratios, and an LX TCU will not properly control an EX transmission.
If you want to swap in the complete longblock AND transmission with the corresponding ECU, then sure, you can do it, but it doesn't sound like that's something you want to do.
The Y7 uses a different ECU, along with a handful of other parts. You can't drop in the Y7 without also swapping over the ECU and those other parts. Since your car is an automatic, that brings you to the next issue - the Transmission Control Unit. The TCU is integrated into the ECU. LX and EX transmissions have different gear ratios, and an LX TCU will not properly control an EX transmission.
If you want to swap in the complete longblock AND transmission with the corresponding ECU, then sure, you can do it, but it doesn't sound like that's something you want to do.
thank you so much for the help guys! really appreciate it. the problem with the original engine is that the piston shot thru and im thinking of rebuilding the engine myself because i cant find any engines available. so my question is what must be done to the enigine if i wanted it rebuilt. what kits to buy and what to replace/rebuild? and if possible cost range? thank u again.
Well, other than the obvious (pistons, rods, block), you'll need a complete rebuild kit, which would include main and rod bearings, as well as all bottom and top end gaskets and seals. I would also put even money on your oil pump being shot, and it wouldn't surprise me if your crank is damaged. You would also need to pay very close attention to your head (especially your valves) if you decided to rebuild.
Is it possible to rebuild your motor? Sure, but what I'm getting at here is the price. A functioning Y8 long block can be found for $500. That right there is your cost of pistons and rods. An oil pump will cost you another hundred plus. Bearings, well there's another couple hundred. Raw block with mains and crank, another hundred or two used. Gaskets and seals, $250+. You're already closing in on twice the price of a long block, and that doesn't even take into account other costs, like machine work and possible head damage. Unless you're planning on rebuilding for power, I really wouldn't recommend it, even if you were paying me to do the work. Between automatic, and wanting an easy drop-in, I'm going to go ahead and assume you aren't going for a power build.
Is finding a long block really giving you that much trouble? post your general location, I'll see what I can dig up for you. If you don't want to post it publicly, feel free to shoot me a PM.
Is it possible to rebuild your motor? Sure, but what I'm getting at here is the price. A functioning Y8 long block can be found for $500. That right there is your cost of pistons and rods. An oil pump will cost you another hundred plus. Bearings, well there's another couple hundred. Raw block with mains and crank, another hundred or two used. Gaskets and seals, $250+. You're already closing in on twice the price of a long block, and that doesn't even take into account other costs, like machine work and possible head damage. Unless you're planning on rebuilding for power, I really wouldn't recommend it, even if you were paying me to do the work. Between automatic, and wanting an easy drop-in, I'm going to go ahead and assume you aren't going for a power build.
Is finding a long block really giving you that much trouble? post your general location, I'll see what I can dig up for you. If you don't want to post it publicly, feel free to shoot me a PM.
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