..............................

 

The D16 might just be the stock engine - you haven't told us which D16 you have, or the trim of your car. For 5G Civics, there is the IACV, as well as the FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve). Remove, clean, and readjust that, and see if that helps your problems.

 

Clean that thing out and use new gaskets on it, clean your tb.
Thsts a coolant line. Not vacuum
Replace the line, i would attach a hose to the radiator and force water threw the system to clean out any crap.
Might as well take the iacv off and clean it too

 

I cant get the end off opposite of the little valve thing that you screw all the way down. What is that thing called? I need to get another cause I cant one the *(^(%& phillip heads screws out. I even tried my vice grips on the side of the screw head.

 

What is the part number to that thing with the gunk in it? Can I get it at the parts store or will I need to go to the salvage yard>?

 

That is the fast idle thermo valve. They're known to go bad, and I wouldn't trust one from a junk yard. You should be able to order one from an online dealer. Alternatively, you could just fabricate a blocking plate out of weld steel sheet, and block air from getting through it - the IACV on the Y7 makes it rather superfluous.

 

Please elaborate notracist? I can just block it off> Wont that cause me throw a CEL? This one would have been fine, but the part opposite the plate wont come off. what is the purpose of that end? the part that was gunked up goes into there. You think Honda might have one? I know where there are some pretty nice parts cars .

 

Block it off, but leave it plugged in. Get a piece of weld steel, cut it to a rectangle, and drill two holes for the FITV bolts. Sandwich that piece of weld steel between your TB and FITV, and bolt it all down. Re-attach your FITV as normal (coolant lines and plug). No CEL, no surging.

I had the exact same problem on my car, and that's exactly how I fixed it with no side-effects.

 

so the coolant lines just run up to it and stop? Im going to search FITV blockoff

 

Coolant passes through it normally, just like it would any other time. You're blocking air from passing through it.

 

Can I just make a block off plate> ? I ended up messing up the nipple part on the end that the coolant line hooks onto my fitv. I notice that there is also a line that goes from the FITV to the IACV cant we just eliminate that step ?

 

Uh...didn't I just say make a block off plate from weld steel?

Yes, you can skip the coolant lines from the FITV to IACV.

 

so essentially, the small coolant line next to the large one underneath the fuel rail can be ran straight back to the IACV small coolant line correct?

 

Or you could go out to the junk yard and find one that you can take apart before you buy it. Clean that one and swap it out with the bad one. Just a thought...

 

yeah but it seems from the amount of posts I have read that they are nothing but trouble, and really no required. what do you think?

 

I tend to lean more towards the guys that design the cars probably know a little more than the people that post on Honda-tech. Could you block if off?...sure you could. I like my stuff to work properly, with that being said...I would replace it, but that's just me. Where in Texas are you? Im stationed out of Fort Hood in Killeen.

 

You say you lean towards the guys who design the car, but you don't know one very simple fact - The D16Y7, stock, does not HAVE an FITV. The PO used the original car's TB (which has a FITV), rather than the Y7 TB, which does not have an FITV.

OP, that part does not belong on your car to begin with. Block it off, and bypass it, or buy a Y8 throttle body. One option involves $5 worth of stuff you can buy at Lowes and 15 minutes of work, the other involves a $100+ part, readjusting your throttle cable, and re-calibrating your TPS. Take your pick.

 

Hey Not,
Could you hook me up with a picture for the cooling hose routing ? That would be super great ! I have looked through about 25 threads already.

 

Hold that thought, I'll see what I can whip up real quick.

 

Three hoses labeled "bypass hoses", you want to pay attention to the middle one (smaller, shaped like an L). One unlabeled hose, to the right and a little up from the words "Fast Idle Valve", looks like a curly Q.

You want the L shaped hose to go into the hole above the thermostat housing, where the curly Q hose goes in. No hoses will run to the FITV.

Alternatively (and what I would do), just leave the hoses the way they are. The fabricated blockoff plate that I mentioned will only block air, not coolant, so you can just let coolant flow through the FITV and it won't do anything. That way you aren't stretching any hoses, or having to buy generic hoses to mount.

Does that make sense?

 

Will this go the same for the d15? My car just started doing that surging also. And I'm assuming that u only block off the oval shaped hole that comes from the inside of the throttle boddy? Sorry I'm having a brain fart and having a hard time picturing it

 

Would like to see also.

 

For a D15, you should do it the right way. Remove, clean, and readjust your FITV. This thread has a VERY good write-up on the procedure, including pictures. OP has a 6G motor in his 5G chassis, so he can get away with deleting the superfluous FITV.

 

yeah Not,
But I broke the damn nipple on the end of that fitv so I cant run coolant now, I also messed up the gasket on the same end of the fitv, so I would rather block it off now and I got a d16.

 

Gotcha.

Then yeah, try to just route that L shaped coolant line from the thermostat housing to the IACV, rather than to the FITV. It might not be long enough. If it isn't, you can get generic coolant hose from your local parts store and cut it to length yourself. If you do it that way, just make sure it doesn't have any kinks in it.