All Motor D16z6 156whp Ver 2.0
Whats up guys I currently have an all motor D16z6 making 156whp stock bore on pump gas. My next goal is to reach 170-180whp all motor. I'd like to have some of your inputs and do it right the first time. I'd like to work with what i already have so no turbo or swap will change my mind.
Link to my old thread:
http://mnhondas.com/showthread.php?t=25226
My Current setup:
Block: (Balanced)
75mm p29 pistons
King main and rod bearings
Stock Rods
Stock Crank
Head:
Brian Crower Stage 2 D16y8 camshaft
AEM Cam Gear
Brian Crower Springs and Retainers
Stock Valves
Mild Ported Head by me
Edelbrock Performer X Intake Manifold
B16 Throttle Body
3in Velocity Stack
Drivetrain:
Stock ex trans
Stock Flywheel
Stage 1 Clutch
Others:
ARP Head Studs
DC 4-1 one piece Header
2.25 Greddy SE Exhaust
Chipped ECU
92 Octane
Stock Injectors.
Some parts i think are necessary to reach my goal:
68-70mm Throttle Body along with ported Intake Manifold
RC 440cc Injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
E85
Rebuilt Trans with 4.9 final drive
Stage 3-4 clutch
12lb flywheel
Bisimoto Level 3 or level X Cam would be great but it would have to be my last option.
76mm bore would really help but i'm not sure if i want to take apart my bottom end yet.
So far the car is running healthy for a year going on second.
I use Rotella T6 5w40 due to the loose torque spec on main and rod bearings
The clutch does not grab as good and the trans wines in 1st gear.
Some of your inputs are greatly appreciated.
Link to my old thread:
http://mnhondas.com/showthread.php?t=25226
My Current setup:
Block: (Balanced)
75mm p29 pistons
King main and rod bearings
Stock Rods
Stock Crank
Head:
Brian Crower Stage 2 D16y8 camshaft
AEM Cam Gear
Brian Crower Springs and Retainers
Stock Valves
Mild Ported Head by me
Edelbrock Performer X Intake Manifold
B16 Throttle Body
3in Velocity Stack
Drivetrain:
Stock ex trans
Stock Flywheel
Stage 1 Clutch
Others:
ARP Head Studs
DC 4-1 one piece Header
2.25 Greddy SE Exhaust
Chipped ECU
92 Octane
Stock Injectors.
Some parts i think are necessary to reach my goal:
68-70mm Throttle Body along with ported Intake Manifold
RC 440cc Injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
E85
Rebuilt Trans with 4.9 final drive
Stage 3-4 clutch
12lb flywheel
Bisimoto Level 3 or level X Cam would be great but it would have to be my last option.
76mm bore would really help but i'm not sure if i want to take apart my bottom end yet.
So far the car is running healthy for a year going on second.
I use Rotella T6 5w40 due to the loose torque spec on main and rod bearings
The clutch does not grab as good and the trans wines in 1st gear.
Some of your inputs are greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Tong.Y; Jan 1, 2014 at 12:51 AM.
I've had really good luck with this header on my D.
https://www.privatelabelmfg.com/category_s/50.htm
I bought one of the earlier ones that didn't fit very well and had to modify it but other than the fact that it made it impossible to use the OEM powersteering,it's been pretty good, other than a cracked tube (welded it up).
You should consider a larger exhaust as well. We saw good gains going to a full 2.5in catback without any losses down low.
Most have also had better luck using RDX injectors and that's maybe something you should consider too as they have a great spray pattern and like to be run at higher pressures too.
I would get a taller 1st gear if you're going to use the 4.9.
Or even the close ratio 3/5 set from MFactory.
Since you spin your motor pretty high, you might also want to consider pressing the OEM water pump gear off and pressing on a DOHC 22T gear on it. Requires the use of an A6 belt IIRC. This will help with cooling as the pump isn't spinning so fast at high revs.
https://www.privatelabelmfg.com/category_s/50.htm
I bought one of the earlier ones that didn't fit very well and had to modify it but other than the fact that it made it impossible to use the OEM powersteering,it's been pretty good, other than a cracked tube (welded it up).
You should consider a larger exhaust as well. We saw good gains going to a full 2.5in catback without any losses down low.
Most have also had better luck using RDX injectors and that's maybe something you should consider too as they have a great spray pattern and like to be run at higher pressures too.
I would get a taller 1st gear if you're going to use the 4.9.
Or even the close ratio 3/5 set from MFactory.
Since you spin your motor pretty high, you might also want to consider pressing the OEM water pump gear off and pressing on a DOHC 22T gear on it. Requires the use of an A6 belt IIRC. This will help with cooling as the pump isn't spinning so fast at high revs.
power steering is a must for me and i think the header i have now should be good up to 180whp. where can i get that taller 1st gear from? and ive decided that if i'm not going e85 i'll just go with a bisimoto level 3/ level x cam and run it on pump gas.
its weird but my D is actually running pretty cold from what my tuner says. the temp gauge is 1/3 and stays there. So far i've replaced the thermostat to an oem one and it's still hasn't changed.
its weird but my D is actually running pretty cold from what my tuner says. the temp gauge is 1/3 and stays there. So far i've replaced the thermostat to an oem one and it's still hasn't changed.
well hook up the labtop to the ecu and see what the ECT reads. Should be min 185f with thermostat open & full operating temp.
Tong, just to confirm, you ment looser bearing clearance on mains/rods not torque spec right?
Tong, just to confirm, you ment looser bearing clearance on mains/rods not torque spec right?
Last edited by Charlie Moua; Jan 1, 2014 at 04:06 PM.
power steering is a must for me and i think the header i have now should be good up to 180whp. where can i get that taller 1st gear from?
its weird but my D is actually running pretty cold from what my tuner says. the temp gauge is 1/3 and stays there. So far i've replaced the thermostat to an oem one and it's still hasn't changed.
its weird but my D is actually running pretty cold from what my tuner says. the temp gauge is 1/3 and stays there. So far i've replaced the thermostat to an oem one and it's still hasn't changed.
Make friends with fabricators. I'm giving up a little bit of top end for more midrange with this header so I can put the powersteering back on too.
As others have mentioned, you should not trust the OEM gauge. Have it datalogged or have an external gauge put on. The Factory gauge really only has 3 settings. Cold, Normal and OH ****.
For the 1st gear, you can get it here:
http://www.teammfactory.com/close-ratio-gears_34
You may also want to consider some engine mounts from HaSport or Innovative. Those will help you lose some weight as you can remove the 2 lower torque mounts plus it keeps the motor where it should be.
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