4wd engaugment light?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 774
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From: knockin boots in, Ohiooooo, USA
I was wondering if there is any sort of electrical output that used when ONLY the rear end is engaged.
I wish there was a way to see when the front tires are slipping and the rear tires are engaged.
Thanks much.
Brandon
I wish there was a way to see when the front tires are slipping and the rear tires are engaged.
Thanks much.
Brandon
The AWD system is fully mechanical/hydraulic activated. There is no electrical connection.
Picture 2 hydraulic pumps. One in the front, one in the back. When all 4 wheels turn at the same speed,the 2 pumps turn at the same rate. The fluid circulates between the pumps but no pressure is created. When the front wheels lose traction and start to spin faster then the rear, the 2 hydraulic pumps turn at different rates, the difference in hydraulic pressure opens a valve which activates an automatic clutch. This clutch applies power to the drive shaft and turns the rear differential which in turn applies power to the rear wheels.
It's a fully automatic, mechanical system with no electric components so there is no electrical output.
Picture 2 hydraulic pumps. One in the front, one in the back. When all 4 wheels turn at the same speed,the 2 pumps turn at the same rate. The fluid circulates between the pumps but no pressure is created. When the front wheels lose traction and start to spin faster then the rear, the 2 hydraulic pumps turn at different rates, the difference in hydraulic pressure opens a valve which activates an automatic clutch. This clutch applies power to the drive shaft and turns the rear differential which in turn applies power to the rear wheels.
It's a fully automatic, mechanical system with no electric components so there is no electrical output.
The AWD system is fully mechanical/hydraulic activated. There is no electrical connection.
Picture 2 hydraulic pumps. One in the front, one in the back. When all 4 wheels turn at the same speed,the 2 pumps turn at the same rate. The fluid circulates between the pumps but no pressure is created. When the front wheels lose traction and start to spin faster then the rear, the 2 hydraulic pumps turn at different rates, the difference in hydraulic pressure opens a valve which activates an automatic clutch. This clutch applies power to the drive shaft and turns the rear differential which in turn applies power to the rear wheels.
It's a fully automatic, mechanical system with no electric components so there is no electrical output.
Picture 2 hydraulic pumps. One in the front, one in the back. When all 4 wheels turn at the same speed,the 2 pumps turn at the same rate. The fluid circulates between the pumps but no pressure is created. When the front wheels lose traction and start to spin faster then the rear, the 2 hydraulic pumps turn at different rates, the difference in hydraulic pressure opens a valve which activates an automatic clutch. This clutch applies power to the drive shaft and turns the rear differential which in turn applies power to the rear wheels.
It's a fully automatic, mechanical system with no electric components so there is no electrical output.
Everything is contained in the rear. The output from the transmission is continuous. You could tap a pressure port but it may be pretty involved to get the simple information you desire. One could also build something to use preexisting ABS sensors as well. None of the logical options would be easy though.
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one guy that converted his civic into a 4wd car from his crv parts did an actuator solenoid,
as far as i could remember, the predecesor of our rt4wd has a similar switch too.. it was on
the EF wagon we had before, it wasnt reachable or an option from the inside but it was already
on the transmission casing itself....
follow this build so you guys can get an idea:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/ek-sleeper-top-mount-back-door-ic-c-2976240/
**read through out the build thread, it will help you guys on your goals...
G/L!
-as far as the engagement of the rear wheels or doing 4wd... it only happens when the front wheel
slips, i think 20% or less <- im not sure but it was discussed here somewhere, all i know is that the rear
differential is like on overdrive, so it couldnt be fully running on its own...
from what i could understand from the OP, he needs an indicator if the 4wd is on, like on new cars
that indicates if traction control is on or its slipping?? like this:
as far as i could remember, the predecesor of our rt4wd has a similar switch too.. it was on
the EF wagon we had before, it wasnt reachable or an option from the inside but it was already
on the transmission casing itself....
follow this build so you guys can get an idea:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/ek-sleeper-top-mount-back-door-ic-c-2976240/
**read through out the build thread, it will help you guys on your goals...
G/L!
-as far as the engagement of the rear wheels or doing 4wd... it only happens when the front wheel
slips, i think 20% or less <- im not sure but it was discussed here somewhere, all i know is that the rear
differential is like on overdrive, so it couldnt be fully running on its own...
from what i could understand from the OP, he needs an indicator if the 4wd is on, like on new cars
that indicates if traction control is on or its slipping?? like this:
Last edited by qwrty; Dec 30, 2013 at 05:32 AM.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
From: knockin boots in, Ohiooooo, USA
NZXTInerTia. the goal is as stated above. I would like to know when the rear wheels are engaged. Most makes have this but in the forum of traction control. I simply would like to know when it is engaged or not.
Thanks qwrty.
Thanks qwrty.
Pressure switch is probably your best bet. Get a Helms manual and start reading.
This is something you will pretty much have to figure out on your own. Nobody really has the same desire to know about it
This is something you will pretty much have to figure out on your own. Nobody really has the same desire to know about it
There are 2 pumps in the rear diff. One driven off the driveshaft, the other off the rear wheels. When the pressure has a 6% difference, the clutches start to engage. Youd need 2 sensors, and a logic board to be able to tell when there is a difference in pressure. Even then, that would only tell you when it 'should' be kicking in, and not necessarily when it actually does. Worn out clutches will cause different points of engagement.
page 8 illustrates how the ek guys did his manual rt4wd engagement...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2976240&page=8
this is the one solution that has been done.. you guys can mock up whatever your plans from
this way or modify his system to a better one... rather than starting from scratch!



may be drill onto that pump and put the pressure solenoid to give out a signal that is working
or engaged... in those pics, it is illustrated where he tapped to put the external pump...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2976240&page=8
this is the one solution that has been done.. you guys can mock up whatever your plans from
this way or modify his system to a better one... rather than starting from scratch!



may be drill onto that pump and put the pressure solenoid to give out a signal that is working
or engaged... in those pics, it is illustrated where he tapped to put the external pump...
im just amazed on how he really went through all the stuff and how will somebody new approach this....
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