Instal Help
I know there might be a forum out there that would help me but I have found it. Anyways Im attempting to put a b18a1 into my 89 sedan but Im having problems getting it mounted. I can get 2 mounted but never 3. Is there a trick or am I just challenged?
This should help. Took it straight from the thread I made explaining the B-series swap into the EF chassis.
Originally Posted by My Write Up
Engine Installation
Installing the engine should go smoother than the removal if this is your first time. That’s mostly due to the new found experience with the motor you have gained. It is essentially the same thing, but in reverse. Despite this, there are some tips along the way.
1. ...
2. Install the rear transmission bracket to the transmission if it is not already there. You should also attach the passenger and driver side mounts to the motor, LOOSLY. You should also attach the rear engine mount to the sub frame of the car. Tighten the rear nut but leave the front loose to swing it and make installation easier.
3. You will most likely need to notch out a portion of the sub frame by the rear transmission mount in order for the bracket to fit. You can either cut this or smash it in with a hammer. Make sure it is flattened as the bracket will be a pain to attach if there isn’t enough room for it.
4. The alternator on the B series motor will also not fit in the small space provided. There is a square hole in the engine bay, on the driver side, that we will use as a reference point. Directly below that you will need to dent the wall in to make room for your alternator. Take a large hammer, a small sledge will work, and bang away at the wall. It’s better to go a little bigger than it is to go smaller since this is a hard to reach area after the motor is installed. You can remove the alternator and intake manifold to get to this spot after the engine is installed, but that is more hassle than it is worth.
5. Now it is time to install the new motor. You will want to lift the engine up with your hoist. But leave the transmission side drooping. It will need to be much lower than the driver side to get up and under the bracket on the body of the car. As you are lowering the motor in, you may have to remove the transmission side mount from the motor if it is in the way, and then reinstall it after the transmission is below the bracket. Regardless, you will want to align the rear bracket first. This is the most important mount to get aligned. As soon as you can get the rear bolt in, do so. Remember to keep it loose though, until everything is installed. Next, align the transmission side mount. This may require disconnecting and sliding it in, loosening bolts to force it into alignment, but it will fit. Lastly, the driver side mount since it is known to be the easiest to align. But since it is the last mount, it will give you some trouble. You will have to jack up, lower, tug, push, and force the motor into proper alignment. After it is in, torque the bolts down to spec while still supporting the engine with the hoist. Then lower the hoist until it is no longer supporting the motor and roll it out of the way.
Installing the engine should go smoother than the removal if this is your first time. That’s mostly due to the new found experience with the motor you have gained. It is essentially the same thing, but in reverse. Despite this, there are some tips along the way.
1. ...
2. Install the rear transmission bracket to the transmission if it is not already there. You should also attach the passenger and driver side mounts to the motor, LOOSLY. You should also attach the rear engine mount to the sub frame of the car. Tighten the rear nut but leave the front loose to swing it and make installation easier.
3. You will most likely need to notch out a portion of the sub frame by the rear transmission mount in order for the bracket to fit. You can either cut this or smash it in with a hammer. Make sure it is flattened as the bracket will be a pain to attach if there isn’t enough room for it.
4. The alternator on the B series motor will also not fit in the small space provided. There is a square hole in the engine bay, on the driver side, that we will use as a reference point. Directly below that you will need to dent the wall in to make room for your alternator. Take a large hammer, a small sledge will work, and bang away at the wall. It’s better to go a little bigger than it is to go smaller since this is a hard to reach area after the motor is installed. You can remove the alternator and intake manifold to get to this spot after the engine is installed, but that is more hassle than it is worth.
5. Now it is time to install the new motor. You will want to lift the engine up with your hoist. But leave the transmission side drooping. It will need to be much lower than the driver side to get up and under the bracket on the body of the car. As you are lowering the motor in, you may have to remove the transmission side mount from the motor if it is in the way, and then reinstall it after the transmission is below the bracket. Regardless, you will want to align the rear bracket first. This is the most important mount to get aligned. As soon as you can get the rear bolt in, do so. Remember to keep it loose though, until everything is installed. Next, align the transmission side mount. This may require disconnecting and sliding it in, loosening bolts to force it into alignment, but it will fit. Lastly, the driver side mount since it is known to be the easiest to align. But since it is the last mount, it will give you some trouble. You will have to jack up, lower, tug, push, and force the motor into proper alignment. After it is in, torque the bolts down to spec while still supporting the engine with the hoist. Then lower the hoist until it is no longer supporting the motor and roll it out of the way.
Unrelated, but back in 1999 when I was doing my frist B16 swap with Hasport mounts, the engine was hard as hell to put in place, After a lot pushing and shoving it went in but it was crooked. You could tell it was not lined up in the engine bay, the timing belt side was closer to the radiator by a good 2 inches. I called Brian at Hasport (he answered the phone) and we talked about the problem. He sent me a new passenger side engine mount and that took care of the problem. Those were the old, first gen, welded Hasport mounts.... good times.
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Unrelated, but back in 1999 when I was doing my frist B16 swap with Hasport mounts, the engine was hard as hell to put in place, After a lot pushing and shoving it went in but it was crooked. You could tell it was not lined up in the engine bay, the timing belt side was closer to the radiator by a good 2 inches. I called Brian at Hasport (he answered the phone) and we talked about the problem. He sent me a new passenger side engine mount and that took care of the problem. Those were the old, first gen, welded Hasport mounts.... good times.
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