I have 97 sh with factory h22a4, going h23a blue top w/ t2t4 or t2w4, getting halfshalf and already have DSS base axles. Have new t-belt, cam seals and plug, spark plugs/wires/gommets, valve cover gasket, have oem waterpump, exedy clutch kit, flywheel, innvoative motor mounts, getting kstuned timing tensioner, got oem fuel filter, new air w/ velocity stack, now to the point my car is obd2, h23a is blue top jdm obd2, I want to convert to obd1, run a p28 basemap for h23a, I know i need obd conversion harness, now I been told different things like use the jdm distributor (most say don't last long b/c salt water and sitting motor don't do good) and jdm oil pump and buy rywire adaptor plugs for both and good to go, or would I be better off new usdm oil pump and my distributor then good to go? But been told u need obd1 h22 93-95 distributor and fuel injectors to make this obd1 that u just can't threw a conversion harness and basemal p28 ecu and be good to go. Ive research forums, called multiple companies, called car club friends and now my wife hates me cause I've spent days in and out trying to find the best way and right way to make a h23a blue top in a 97 h22a4 car swapped and obd1. I may have confused myself with over researching and I ve read ESP blue top thread too. So call me dumb, I dont care. Ready to get this motor and have fun. Thanks. Sorry if I'm carrying on like crazy but this stuff I guess can make u crazy. I been told and read so many pages with know ending or complete answers to someones post.

 

get a distributor for a 94 H22a1, i know for a fact its a external coil obd1 dizzy, then you need a obd2-to-obd1 jumper. Obd2 dizzies cant be manually adjusted.

Just reuse you're SH oil pump if in good condition, SH use a base pump i think... OBD2 US market crank positioning sensor is in the oil-pump itself. JDM CPS is located in the distributor not the oil pump.

Also reuse you old alternator

obd1 uses saturated injectors, and obd2 used peak and hold injectors. Peak and hold injectors need a resistor box to work properly. So if you're going obd1 it would just be easier to go saturated injectors so you can delete the resistor box.

Im pretty sure jdm and usdm OBD2 share the same harness plugs for ECU's. So possibly you would need a obd2-to-Obd1 injector jumpers for the obd1 injectors.

Maybe tape off the ATTS loose wires, but everything else should just plug in as normal. Maybe the reverse light plug on the trans may be different, just need to solder new pig-tail worse come to worse.

 

R u sure the h22 obd1 injectors r not the ones that use the resistor box, not trying to challenge you, you've been very helpful and have helped me in the past too I think, thanks sparksman

 

I will be getting a new usdm oil pump for sure b/c I have almost 240, 000 miles on it, I wonder If I can make or buy an adaptor to use the blue top alterntor being mine has almost 240, 000 miles on it too, you're saying I need to use the usdm obd2 alternator too

 

Ok I do believe u r right that peak and hold use a resistor box, I was thinking d it was the other way

 

No you're correct, obd1 are peak and hold which need the resistor box. Obd2 saturated dont need, I did mix them up. Hey Im far from perfect lol, I knew it was one way or another.

All you need to be obd 1 is a chipped ECU and a ECU jumper thats it on a usdm engine. You can use your obd2 harness and all of you're obd2 parts.

For the jdm its just the dizzy,injector,alternator plugs, and cps location. Being that you have a obd2 harness they might be plug and play for you i dont know.

You can get a jumper for the alternator if needed, although the jumper wont be all too much less the a parts store alternator anyhow. I know with a obd1 harness you need jumpers, not sure about a obd2 harness never owned one to look into it.

 

So we've come to the current conclusion that when I get the blue top i'll throw on an obd1 h22a1 93-95 distributor (order adaptor to connect distributor plugs) h22a1 fuel injector or comparable aftermarket w/ resistor box and adaptor to plug the injectors up, get conversion harness and chipped p28 ecu, order a usdm oil pump that originally came in the car. Will most likly order a skunk2 IM and not fool with the blup top or mine and delete egr, that will take care of that. Please anyone that can see an issue with this plan let me know, thanks for the help

 

Skunk2 Intake mani's arent the best on H series.

you shouldnt need a new harness just jumpers, how many I dont know because Im not sure how close jdm and usdm obd2 plugs are to each other.

Obd2 usdm oil pump w/ cps

obd1 h22a1 dizzy

From what Ive been reading the only reason people go back to their obd1 injectors was they wanted to run the H23aV on a P13 factory h22a ECU and the injectors are different CC's. The H23aV never had a manual trans or ECU, you could just swap back in you're h22a4 injectors if you wanted. Then there would be no need for a injector resistor, or injector adapters to obd1. You could even run off of you're obd2 ecu at that point, its a stock engine. Although not sure how the lack of ATTS will effect the SH ecu, you're best bet is to get that chipped ecu with a H23aV base map tuned for what ever injectors you're using.

 

yeah jumpers not harness, just worded it wrong, that's my bad. now I know the answer for this but going to say it anyway, going chipped ecu like p28 is going to be converting obd1,its a obd1 ecu right?? YES.. because what I've gathered that's one of the best ways to run this motor. Because it didn't have a factory manual and only can be offered with a auto ecu. so I guess when I order the basemap for h23aV you're saying just inform them I will be using usdm h22a4 fuel injectors and I "should" be ok? Read also to have it tuned anyway b/c with the basemap for the h23aV it still runs a little rich.
so just swap out the top of the IM on h23aV and use the h22 and don't fool with a skunk2 IM, I've heard they're good on top end and with the motor having strong low end torque way not, I cant afford or want to spend the money on euro r rosko manifold, need to budget for other goods. I maybe wrong here but do I need to swap the timing and balance sprockets like u do with a h22a put in a 5th gen and going obd1. I don't think I've read anything about that with the H23aV but a lot of stuff I'm finding hard to search down.

 

all "obd" is referring to is the computer, nothing else. The engines are the same, just parts plugs and location of parts are different. Only reason Obd1 is "better" is you can change the settings/tune. Obd2 ecu's cant be changed or tuned in any way, so aftermarket parts do squat for power increases.

The P28 is a D-series civic ecu. When you go to a tuner he can upload a H23aV base map and tweak that according to the parts you're using. Yes you will need to inform him of which injectors and any other mods.

A H23aV base map does NOT burn rich on a H23aV..... it is the spec A/F ratio Honda deemed suitable for this engine 100% stock.

You can get as much if not more power out of a oem intake thats been gutted and has spacers. This has been shown time and time again to be the better rout over S2. Just clean and reuse youre old intake if you cant afford a euro-r or custom.

Why would you need to swap out balance or timing gears? The H23aV uses the exact same camshafts as the H22a, and I dont see the balance shafts being any different. Maybe Im missing or forgetting something...?

 

No sure they r the same too, at this point I plan on ordering the motor and start checking everything that will plug n play and then take it from that point, I may of read to many forums with to much misinformation and now r question my own knowledge and experience with my own h22, when I get it I'll start loading information on what I add to it and everything like that, thanks for your help again and yeah I think u may have talked me into gutting my IM.

 

Modified OEM or Euro R does better than Skunk 2.

Get the T2W4 transmission, way better gearing, T2T4 is no different in gearing than a stock 5g trans, it just has a LSD added to it.

If you're converting to OBD1 there's no need to swap oil pumps, sorry if that's been covered. Only reason people swap is to keep the car OBD2 because of the CKP sensor.