Brake line fittings stuck in prop valve
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From: Bismarck ND
Hey H-T
I've been slowly doing a rear disk brake swap to my 94 Cx for sometime now and have run into a problem. When the previous owner did the motor swap to my car, they sprayed the bay without removing the prop valve and hard lines. I'm needing to upgrade the prop valve but cannot get the fittings off and have tried everything to get them out. I'm wondering if anyone has or think it would be a good idea to just cut the lines right behind the fitting, put on a new fitting and flare the line again. Will this work and would they then be to short? I'm open to try any other methods.
Thanks
I've been slowly doing a rear disk brake swap to my 94 Cx for sometime now and have run into a problem. When the previous owner did the motor swap to my car, they sprayed the bay without removing the prop valve and hard lines. I'm needing to upgrade the prop valve but cannot get the fittings off and have tried everything to get them out. I'm wondering if anyone has or think it would be a good idea to just cut the lines right behind the fitting, put on a new fitting and flare the line again. Will this work and would they then be to short? I'm open to try any other methods.
Thanks
Bad idea.
Use a flare nut wrench.
But I assume at this point you've already messed up the fittings..... It's still the best tool to attempt to salvage your lines cleanly. Otherwise you'll need to replace the lines and/or replumb with the proper flaring tools.
Use a flare nut wrench.
But I assume at this point you've already messed up the fittings..... It's still the best tool to attempt to salvage your lines cleanly. Otherwise you'll need to replace the lines and/or replumb with the proper flaring tools.
You will prolly need to replace the lines at this point, if a flare wrench doesn't work you can try vice grips but you will destroy the fitting. Heat will be your friend.
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Tried a flare nut wrench, vice grips and heat with no luck. Also used a ton of PB Blaster and let it sit over night several times.
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I guess i was just wondering if the lines were going to be long enough to do that. It doesn't hurt to try it i guess I'll be replacing them anyway if it doesn't work. Thanks for taking the time to point out the obvious though!
replacing the lines can be a real pain, particularly the longer ones.
if you have access to a junkyard and plan on getting replacement lines from there, then just cut the line at a clear, accessible, straight section. then you can just replace that part with a spliced coupler.
if you have access to a junkyard and plan on getting replacement lines from there, then just cut the line at a clear, accessible, straight section. then you can just replace that part with a spliced coupler.
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From: Pensacola, FL and every Court House in Louisiana
Flare but wrench but that didn't work for me so I used a small angled vise grip. It rounded the nuts but got them off. Major pain in the *** with th motor in the way
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Lol that's what I was also going to say. I've only had the one Honda and it had a B18 when I got it so idk if they take up a lot more room than the D but some of the fittings I can't even get the flare wrench on. You were able to get the lines back on tight enough even with them rounded though?
I had the same problem and had to replace my lines. If you do replace them I recommend nickel copper it will never rust/rot, you can bend it by hand and it's fairly cheap in spools.
*always use flare wrench on brake line fittings. otherwise they round off immediately*
Good Luck
*always use flare wrench on brake line fittings. otherwise they round off immediately*
Good Luck
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