i just rebuilt a z6 bottom end with a y7 head.

car wont go into time right. runs but runs like ****..

anyway here. everything in this is new but the oil pump( but i know it worked before so it shouldnt be bad)
ALL proper machine done at my shop so i know it is correct and assembled correct

problem: will not make oil pressure what so ever

started the car and noticed no oil pressure so shut it off. ( no plugs in and no fuel so i can prime with oil.)i have assembly lubed everything though, even in pump. tried and tried.

took pump off and noticed it didnt even want to pump. there was barely even a drop on the discharge side.

took it apart and found nothing wrong. tried it again and nothing. that was a P01. so i tried another PM3 i had. still nothing.

so my buddy told me to make sure the pick up was wet. so i took it off and soaked it in oil. tried agian. still nothing.

so i went to my shop and got a tool that looks like a propane tank but you but oil in it and 80 psi of compressed air. with a hose that goes to your oil psi sending switch. this manually primes everything in the engine. as it was pumping i bumped the key and it spiked 30 psi!!!!!!!

let it finish pumping. and tried starting it. NO OIL PRESSURE!!!

so if you think about what just happen.. it seems like the pump will push but not pull. it will not suck oil. only pump it!! and i dont know why

i can assure you the one pump did work:
-its a brand new oem pick up for a z6
-pick up is sealed correctly to the pump
-new oil pan and breather box
-yes it has enough oil


only thing i can think is
-being a z6 block with a d16y7 head, i left the oil restrictor in the block because its not a vtec head, only block and blocks arent vtec, heads are.
-im 99.9 percent sure i put the main bearings in the right..but neither one of these should cause this. let me hear your opion.

i know its not the gauge. its brand new and mechanical. i took the feed line off turbb too and nothing comes out.sooo it beats me

 

Do you have the gasket around the oil pickup?

 

yes i do. clean surfaces too

 

where is your oil pressure gauge setup? sandwich adapter? or T'd off the stock oil presser sensor location? the oil pumps are pretty basic with 2 gears that roll around and a spring loaded valve to regulate pressure.. what kind of line did u use on the mechanical gauge? that nylon and copper line can kink. I used braided line for mine

 

does the different top end you used reverse the drive for the pump so it goes in reverse or is it taller so the drive does not reach the pump to turn it?

 

I noticed you said a "pm3 you had". Have you tried a new pump just to eliminate the possibility of having 2 bad pumps? I know the likelyhood is low, but then again stranger things have happened.
Also what timing belt are you using? What water pump? My thought is if you are having problems getting it timed, and its not pumping oil, you have have the wrong belt.
I'm approaching this like a LSV. If you use a Vtec oil pump, you have to use a vtec water pump and vtec timing belt. All of that HAS to match or it will not work properly.
I'm not a d-series guy buy any means, but a non-vtec head should take non vtec pumps, and the belt to match them.

 

I used a gates belt. Says its for a z6 and a new water pump suppose to be for a z6. My timing marks all line up fine nk matter how much I crank its still "in time". I used the same oil pump and same head with a 1.5 no problems. Wouldn't you think as long as the pump is spinning it shouldn't matter if its times right or not? Pump doesn't know it's in time it just spins right?

 

I know it's pushing oil and not sucking oil because when I force oil in the system it made pressure but once it all drain out it wouldn't make any

 

I was just thinking if the belt is too long, it will in turn spin slower, not pulling oil correctly. I know its a stretch, but my mind is trying to work through every possible option.

 

Non working anti drain back valve on oil filter...

Blocked pickup tube or screen? Not sure, but does a Honda pump have a check ball valve / pressure relief valve? If so might be sticking...

 

cant remeber correctly but when i built a mini me, i forgot to take out the oil jet, a y7 head if i am correct would need an oil jet and i am assuming a z6 block dos not have one, so i think.... you need an oil jet in the block.

been a while since the d-series day haha so dont quote me on this, but still, just a thought im throwing out there.

oil jet

 

Wrong or upside down head gasket?

 

Ya I put the oil jet in the block. So it's basically like a y7 block. The pick up is bran new oem Honda. This is wild guys. I'm not a fool I know what to look for that's why I'm totally lost!! Doesn't seem like anyone else has this problem haha damn it!!!!!!

 

Like the other guy said it could be a faulty oil filter. Just a thought.

 

wrong oil pan? did you check the clearance between the pan and the pickup?

 

It was the oil pan!!! The one I ordered for a z6 is actually not as deep as a z6 witch makes no sense that t wouldn't work

 

yes sir. it was the pan. i was shipped one that was too shallow. if your pick up is to close to the bottom of the pan, the pump wont suck oil. it just makes a swirl kind like what your toilet does

 

Glad you got it figured out. I saw you double checked everything and then some. Way beyond me so good for me to observe and learn. Weirdest things make all the difference.

Koodos to you for getting it all settled.

 

You need to remove the oil jet from the block. All of the SOHC D's from 96-00 have them in the head. So you now have two restrictors which is no good.

 

i thought i noticed that....ill just take it out of the head it should make no difference. right? i still have another problem ive never ran across! its a y7 head on a z6 block. aparently a y7 and z6 cam gear are the same. i line everything up and it runs. but real lopey and realllll rich in low rpm like it falls on its face. now i turned the cam gear clockwise and it seemed to fix it but my marks are a little off! wtf

 

Nice glad you figured it out!

 

Figured out the other problem. Y and z subseries engines have half roof timing deifference. Bottom end is irrelivent