Hello all, I'm a frequent reader and there's tons of awesome info. I have a 96 Accord EX with auto transmission. I've been reading non-stop posts on replacing cv axle. I've had the passenger side replaced awhile ago, still have clicking when turning right, so I'm replacing the driver's side myself. I've read posts, watched youtube videos, read my hayne's manual, etc. and there are very conflicting views about the need to drain the transmission fluid before removing the axle. I will be using a jack, jacking up the side that i'm working on. Can anyone shed some light on this?? I have to drain it as I just had it changed about 6 months/15K miles ago. I also don't want to make a mess. Thanks in advance.

 

No need to drain trans fluid when changing axle.

 

No need to drain. Although the differential housing is mounted low on the transmission it is not lower than the fluid in the sump.

Remove hubcap/centercap
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nut
Loosen lug nuts.
Raise and support front of car.
Remove lugnuts/wheel.
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove split pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, pop tie rod free, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Flip and reinstall it so it is flush with the bottom of the stud.
Using a floor jack, place the cup directly under the inverted nut and jack the arm up via the nut.
Raise the floor jack up so there is enough space to install something similar in size to a 3/8" rathcet handle between the lower control arm and knuckle.
Lower the jack the handle should bind in between the lower control arm and knuckler which will force the BJ off the arm.
Use a flat bar or small crow bar to pop the axle out of the differential.
It should easily pop out with a quick, sharp motion.
If not rotate the axle 180°, if still stuck rotate 90°, if still stick turn 180°. If it is still stuck you may not be applying force correctly.
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.
If new axle comes in a plastic bag, leave the axle in the bag while sliding it through the fork. If no bag use a plastic grocery bag around the rubber boot while passing it through the fork.
Be mindful of the O2 sensor on F22B1 EX models as it may be damaged if you strike it with the axle.

Lower BJ is 40ftlbs
Tie rod is 32ftlbs
Hose bolts are 7-10ftlbs
Sway bar endlink 13-16ftlbs
Lug nuts are 80ftlbs
Axle stub is 181ftlbs.

 

wow, you guys are awesome, thank you!! just got done, took my about 3 hours which I know is long, however I damaged the tie rod end's boot in the process and needed to replace it before finishing the job. Thanks again!!