Has anyone ever removed the two phillips screws that hold on the 2 coolant inlet/outlet pipes?
I got an IACV from the junkyard and I don't want the rusty pipes touching my cooling system, so I want to change the piping on my original IACV to this one. These are either rusted on, or I just can't remove them. I am using a JIS #P2 screwdriver. Are those phillips #P3? I cannot get these to break loose and I am coming close to stripping the heads by trying the impact feature of my Vessel screwdriver.

 

If the inside if fine stop worrying or take a wire brush to them, not going to hurt anything by doing that.

 

Tried to wire brush and it won't get any of the rest off. I am not sure if the rust is on the inside of the pipes also.

 

I don't know screw heads off by heart but take I to a hardware store and try the different one's to see which fits. that's just what I do maybe you're not close to one in which case it would be more difficult.

 

I tried this once and the screw snapped off the head and I tried to rivet it after drilling it out and it leaked. u will probably have to cut the head off and drill and tap it out for a new bolt. it has to be tight or coolant will leak. you can try grabbing some vise grips on the screw and try to take them off that way... if that don't work ur gonna have to drill and tap new bolts in

 

Those screws aren't coming off. I've tried, on many units. The only one I managed to get off involved a bench vise, manual impact screw driver, and half a can of penetrant oil. The other screw sheared off and I had to use a reverse bit on it.

Do yourself a favor. Waller out the head, drop the IACV in a tub of penetrant oil for a day or two, then use a reverse bit on it. You'll probably be better served acid dipping just that rusted part of the IACV, though.

 

PB blaster, next day take it off with some vice grip pliers.

 

Well from what you said, NotARacist, should I just leave this rust and hope that it doesn't affect my cooling system? If the screws have to be very tight in order to not leak coolant, then it sounds like a hassle. I will have to get these screws off my other nonrusty IACV, and switch them to this one.

 

it won't affect the coolant system you do know how/where it's routed right ?. such a small amount won't do anything that's why I said stop worrying. I'd be more concerned about potential dry rotted hoses....

 

i would flush it out and be done with it if it was me, but you can take a chisel and hit it from the side to try to turn the screw.

 

Yep, I wouldn't worry about it. If you really want to worry about it, like I said, acid dip it. The right mixture of acid will clean off surface rust without damaging the metal. If you aren't comfortable doing it yourself, there should be at least one machine shop in your area that can do it.

 

Well, I just hit it with sandpaper as best as I could and put it on.

For some reason the one I got from the junkyard, off a 98 Integra LS looks a little different. According to the part numbers, all 96-01 Integra (any model) should have the same IACV.



You see how the diameter of the circle on the left is a little larger (on the left IACV, which is off my 96 JDM Integra Type R motor).



Unfortunately the Denso sticker on the new one I got from the junkyard is worn off, so I can't compare Denso part numbers to make sure it says 6TA on the second row.

 

Put a screwdriver bit on a 6.5 mm socket
And use a ratchet to take it off
I always do that on hard screws and it works everytime
95

 

The diameters are the same
Just that the ports have more material on them
Get a new gasket and you'll be fine
If the car has a weird idle then i would check if the iacv is leaking
95

 

Also you can always drill the head off the screws off and use vice grips to remove the screw stud and use your old screws
95

 

Idle is still high, coolant is not leaking from the IACV. The IACV on the right has more material on the ports, aka the port has a smaller inner diameter.

I decided to just leave the rusty pipes. I sanded them a little bit but its probably just some surface rust that won't affect my cooling system. I didn't want to go through the trouble of removing that place and possibly not getting it to seal completely again. Then I would definitely have a leaking IACV.

I will just buy a phillips bit socket instead of finding a 6.5mm socket then putting a bit in it.

 

High, or pulsing? High idle generally means a vacuum leak or an incorrectly set idle.

 

Just high. It only pulses sometimes, and for only a short time, while the car is warming up.
I can't seem to find the vacuum leak. I also cannot get the idle set screw on the TB to turn. It is close to stripping as well. Maybe I need to buy some screwdriver bits on sockets to use a ratchet for this as well.

The high idle problem started after cleaning the TB while it was still on the engine. I sprayed too much carb cleaner in the intake and flooded the plugs. Obviously fixed the problem by removing and cleaning the plugs, but maybe something else got messed up besides just the flooded plugs.

 

Have you tried starting the car and spraying carb cleaner around the intake assembly? That's the best way to look for a leak - when it gets sucked in, you'll hear a change in the engine. If you shine a flashlight at the right angle, you'll be able to see it getting sucked in, too.

 

I have not tried this yet, because I am avoiding getting that residue all over my engine. I guess I will give it a try tomorrow if it is my last resort.

 

I tried spraying carb cleaner all over and I did not hear an idle change. I took this video, where I once again gave a quick spray of carb cleaner and notice that the idle only changes when I push the throttle bracket closed more. I do not think it takes the idle back down to where it is supposed to be, but it drops it from 1500 RPM. Even with the throttle cable unattached to the bracket, the same situation happens. It seems that I need to somehow adjust my bracket.

 

if so there is a lock nut and a very tiny allen screw that can be turned to adjust your throttle body butterfly.... its underneath the throttle wheel

 

And that screw is set correctly from the factory, and should never be toyed with.

 

According to the correct way to adjust your idle speed in the Hondata user guide for the S300 (which I have) it says to disconnect the IACV and adjust the idle to around 450 rpm using the idle screw on the TB. I think it's okay if you have to adjust it.

About the tiny allen screw under the throttle wheel. I have seen it but it very hard to get an allen wrench to. Also, I don't see why I would need to adjust this because my idle just became higher when all I did was clean the throttle body while it was on the engine still. A higher idle should be a vacuum leak, but I can't find one.

 

Any ideas on what I should do besides adjusting any of these screws on my throttle body? I think the idle is way too high for just a screw adjustment problem. If I unhook my IACV when the car is off, my idle will be lower (around 1000 RPM) when I start the car up.

Yesterday when driving around for a little, I noticed that the idle will surge for a few seconds sometimes when stopping at stop lights. Does this mean that underneath this problem, my new IACV from the junkyard is still a piece of **** like my old one? I am thinking of buying a new one from the dealer and hoping it fixes all my problems, but it is over $200.