questions about upcoming non-vtec build?
big questions are:
gas mileage
maintenance
legit daily status?
im looking to pick up a legit DAILY DRIVER. im looking to build a motor for it cuz i cant leave **** stock. plan on sending both the head and block to machine shop. i basically want to build the motor completely, drop it in, tune it, then never touch it again (other than standard honda maint schedule)
now my drive is stop/go 25miles (50 total) into the north seattle area. mostly freeway, but between 0-70mph lol. id say averages 45mins (each way).
this is what im thinking about:
US B20 block... maybe 84.5mm. (havent taken it apart, high miles, spun rod bearing)
i have a P75 head... might buy P8R (either way will just get light port cleanup)
"JDM ITR" pistons in 84-84.5mm
stock rods
new bearings/rings/gaskets of course
Crower 62404-2's <~ I HAVE THESE ALREADY.
Crower or Supertech springs (stock or steel retainers)
self ported intake mani P75/blox/something
68mm TB.
JDM itr header.
2.5" exhaust. big resonator, big maganflow muffler (going for stock look)
stock air box with custom arm
block will most likely end up at machine shop for .5mm over. head will get 3angle? and new guides if needed.
couple of those items are based on my want to have a STOCK appearing swap. im not looking to put down the highest numbers, infact i think this will be ballz slow either way. just want something fun to putt around in, do some solid 2nd gear burnouts etc, my Galant is the big power maker.
from what im gathering this setup is good for 180ish whp? 145tq?
is finding/buying/building a P8R head going to be worth my time/money? or is the P75 thats on the block already going to be fine?
still working on transmission stuff. but this is the idea:
YS1 case
S4C/B16 1-2-3-4
YS1 non-vtec 5th
ITR LSD > china LSD > locker... ITR LSD is what i want, but prices are stupid
ACT HDSS? or CC 1.5?
oh yeah. this will most likely be in a 88-91 Civic LX/EX 4dr... im still looking for a solid chassis for deals. i already have HASport mounts for this chassis.
if the chassis has working AC and PS those will be retained.
tuning... idk. if i tune it i would like to get another AEM box. if i have my tuner go to town on it, probably CROME. or have him polish my AEM tune. lol.
in closing...
so what kind of gas mileage can one expect from a setup like this? its gotta better the 17-20mpg of the GVR4 lol, but can i expect the 27-33 my ITR got? (with B20V/ITR tranny)
is this not a DAILY kind of setup? like jump in and drive. rock out the auto start in cold mornings. give the keys to girlfriend/mom/whoever and issue free?
maintenance. im sure this will require less than my other (turbo) cars...? not gonna need to adjust valves all the time with these cams or something stupid?!?!
i miss anything? im open to suggestions here. thanks!
gas mileage
maintenance
legit daily status?
im looking to pick up a legit DAILY DRIVER. im looking to build a motor for it cuz i cant leave **** stock. plan on sending both the head and block to machine shop. i basically want to build the motor completely, drop it in, tune it, then never touch it again (other than standard honda maint schedule)
now my drive is stop/go 25miles (50 total) into the north seattle area. mostly freeway, but between 0-70mph lol. id say averages 45mins (each way).
this is what im thinking about:
US B20 block... maybe 84.5mm. (havent taken it apart, high miles, spun rod bearing)
i have a P75 head... might buy P8R (either way will just get light port cleanup)
"JDM ITR" pistons in 84-84.5mm
stock rods
new bearings/rings/gaskets of course
Crower 62404-2's <~ I HAVE THESE ALREADY.
Crower or Supertech springs (stock or steel retainers)
self ported intake mani P75/blox/something
68mm TB.
JDM itr header.
2.5" exhaust. big resonator, big maganflow muffler (going for stock look)
stock air box with custom arm
block will most likely end up at machine shop for .5mm over. head will get 3angle? and new guides if needed.
couple of those items are based on my want to have a STOCK appearing swap. im not looking to put down the highest numbers, infact i think this will be ballz slow either way. just want something fun to putt around in, do some solid 2nd gear burnouts etc, my Galant is the big power maker.
from what im gathering this setup is good for 180ish whp? 145tq?
is finding/buying/building a P8R head going to be worth my time/money? or is the P75 thats on the block already going to be fine?
still working on transmission stuff. but this is the idea:
YS1 case
S4C/B16 1-2-3-4
YS1 non-vtec 5th
ITR LSD > china LSD > locker... ITR LSD is what i want, but prices are stupid
ACT HDSS? or CC 1.5?
oh yeah. this will most likely be in a 88-91 Civic LX/EX 4dr... im still looking for a solid chassis for deals. i already have HASport mounts for this chassis.
if the chassis has working AC and PS those will be retained.
tuning... idk. if i tune it i would like to get another AEM box. if i have my tuner go to town on it, probably CROME. or have him polish my AEM tune. lol.
in closing...
so what kind of gas mileage can one expect from a setup like this? its gotta better the 17-20mpg of the GVR4 lol, but can i expect the 27-33 my ITR got? (with B20V/ITR tranny)
is this not a DAILY kind of setup? like jump in and drive. rock out the auto start in cold mornings. give the keys to girlfriend/mom/whoever and issue free?
maintenance. im sure this will require less than my other (turbo) cars...? not gonna need to adjust valves all the time with these cams or something stupid?!?!
i miss anything? im open to suggestions here. thanks!
Those cams and stronger springs would make for more frequent valve adjustment.
Mileage? All depends on how heavy the right foot is.
Stock looking with that header?
Mileage? All depends on how heavy the right foot is.
Stock looking with that header?
its a stock manifold. therefor is stock looking. i will be of course running the OEM heat shields.
been thinking on the header also. a 4-1 header is more top end correct? a 4-2-1 would be more fitting to my setup of higher torque at low RPM with little concern for high RPM power. or am i wrong here? is there a cost effective option that would be ok for my setup (like a large tube for 2.0 motor)?
im sure i could fabricated up some tabs to hang a stock heatshield over a 4-2-1...
been thinking on the header also. a 4-1 header is more top end correct? a 4-2-1 would be more fitting to my setup of higher torque at low RPM with little concern for high RPM power. or am i wrong here? is there a cost effective option that would be ok for my setup (like a large tube for 2.0 motor)?
im sure i could fabricated up some tabs to hang a stock heatshield over a 4-2-1...
4-2-1 works better for midrange. Long tubes for top end.
How stock looking? I have taken factory stock "headers" and cut out the inner tube... Welded them back up and ground the welds down. Looked totally stock. That was on older A18/20 engines... My favorite build was a A20 block, heavily ported ET2 head with dual sidedraft Mikunis.
I am looking at a similar setup for my B20 as yours. Mine will be in my daily driver CRV. Built for long term reliability and some extra power.
How stock looking? I have taken factory stock "headers" and cut out the inner tube... Welded them back up and ground the welds down. Looked totally stock. That was on older A18/20 engines... My favorite build was a A20 block, heavily ported ET2 head with dual sidedraft Mikunis.
I am looking at a similar setup for my B20 as yours. Mine will be in my daily driver CRV. Built for long term reliability and some extra power.
its not an emissions or racing class thing. i just prefer a OEM look to a build if possible. it will be obvious that its got a swapped motor.
more of the side of a sandbagged street racer style. just mild and overlooked. not flashy. just to the point. would like it to look like a low budget swap, but clean. looks 130hp, but puts down 180+...
this will probably be a car i keep a long while if it goes the way i want. getting old, getting tired of wrenching and spending money on the Honda's.
more of the side of a sandbagged street racer style. just mild and overlooked. not flashy. just to the point. would like it to look like a low budget swap, but clean. looks 130hp, but puts down 180+...
this will probably be a car i keep a long while if it goes the way i want. getting old, getting tired of wrenching and spending money on the Honda's.
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and im 32, so i win! just kidding. anyhow...
i did something similar a few years back. i had it in a 92 integra. i ran it for a year right through the winter when it was 2 degrees outside when i had to start it for work in the am. never gave me a problem ran fine i took it out to keep it when i sold the car. gas mpg wasnt really good if i remember it was mid 20's with a straight ls trans
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/daily-driver-project-b20-build-2379316/
my consensus: bleh. you are better off with a vtec motor being straight vtec or lsvtec. it will get better mpg and if you build it up with higher compression like 11 or 12:1 it will have low end similar to a b20 in stockish form. granted i ran a 2" axleback and probably could have found 5-10 more whp but still...
about that jdm itr header, dont do it its really not a good match for the motor. a 4-2-1 with 2.5" collector is a better bet
also i gotta tell you, running b16 1-4 and ls 5th is not as good in real life as it sounds on paper. ive been messing around with different gears and combos in my hondas both vtec and non and feel that you dont want your 5th gear to go more than 1 tranny lower (aka b16 1-4 use gsr 5th, gsr 1-5 use ls 5th).
so there ya go. cant hate on you for trying as i always find myself back with a b20 in my cars every so often. some bolt ons and maybe cams not a big deal go for it in a heartbeat, but if you are looking for power and are entirely ripping the engine apart, vtec gets good mpg and hauls *** when you punch it.
i did something similar a few years back. i had it in a 92 integra. i ran it for a year right through the winter when it was 2 degrees outside when i had to start it for work in the am. never gave me a problem ran fine i took it out to keep it when i sold the car. gas mpg wasnt really good if i remember it was mid 20's with a straight ls trans
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/daily-driver-project-b20-build-2379316/
my consensus: bleh. you are better off with a vtec motor being straight vtec or lsvtec. it will get better mpg and if you build it up with higher compression like 11 or 12:1 it will have low end similar to a b20 in stockish form. granted i ran a 2" axleback and probably could have found 5-10 more whp but still...
about that jdm itr header, dont do it its really not a good match for the motor. a 4-2-1 with 2.5" collector is a better bet
also i gotta tell you, running b16 1-4 and ls 5th is not as good in real life as it sounds on paper. ive been messing around with different gears and combos in my hondas both vtec and non and feel that you dont want your 5th gear to go more than 1 tranny lower (aka b16 1-4 use gsr 5th, gsr 1-5 use ls 5th).
so there ya go. cant hate on you for trying as i always find myself back with a b20 in my cars every so often. some bolt ons and maybe cams not a big deal go for it in a heartbeat, but if you are looking for power and are entirely ripping the engine apart, vtec gets good mpg and hauls *** when you punch it.
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