hi, My civic recently start to sputter when the engine is cold if you press the gas it sound like anti lag. Now sometimes after warm it do it when release the clutch and give it gas and suddenly start rev normal.

No CEL
New dizzy
fuel filter
injector seals
good knowing TPS .48 and 4.5
new fuel regulator.

Any help will be appreciate.

 

Change the plugs the others look fueled.

When I tuned my car it was set at 52psi with a B&M command flow.

Now the new AEM is set at 52psi. There's any chance in difference in fuel ratios or settings between the two regulators that can cause this.

 

do you have a wideband in the car?

 

wideband would not be it, here. this seems like a mechanical or sensor issue. how are water temps? ECT sensor? easily could be an issue.

Hell, I haven't had a wideband in mine for 10 years.. that's my tuner's job.

 

Yes, I have wideband. The WB go out of parameter when the sputtering begin, as it's start to rev the WB start to read correctly.

TheShodan, I was working in the car and when I disconnect the ECT the car revs a lot better. I pick up one on my cousin shop but this turn on the CEL.

I'm going to try one from a auto parts. (Taiwan)

 

i didn't say it was the problem. widebands are a great way to diagnose a problem quickly, and every boosted car should have one. just my opinion.

 

new coolant sensor, bought it at Honda dealer japan replacement.

The car still do the same.

This leave me with TPS or MAP:

The TPS I switched it with other I have laying around (maybe is bad too).

MAP Omni 3bar, How can I test it?

After put the ECT I did a pull and the car is super slow like something holding it. Wideband 11.2 at WOT @ 17.5psi and the car run like a b16.

 

does the car do any jerking? if so it could possibly be TPS.

the ECT tells the computer how much fuel to give the motor. Basically when it is cold air is more dense which requires more fuel (correct me if im wrong)

The TPS could be an issue, but I just had an issue with that.

The symptom I had was I would press on the gas and there would be no response untill I was at about 10-15% throttle, then I would feel the power kick in.

I have not had experience with a MAP issue yet, I am running a 3bar GM map sensor and it works great. I have about 60K miles on it so far and 3 different motor setups.

Have you checked grounds? a bad ground can cause problems as well.

have you tried a different ECU?

what kind of fuel pump are you running? (hopefully a walbro 255)


when was the last time you did a valve adjustment?

changed fuel filter?

 

The ECT tells the ECU if the engine is cold or hot, for add or trim fuel.

After my car warms up for 5 minutes the engine run smooth always I not take him to WOT when it feel completely out of power. But if I try to drive it cold, sputters and jerk with the gas babied and if I left the gas press sound like antilag.

Yes, removed and wire brush clean all the grounds.

Yes, tried a p28 chipped and the same. I have a p06 chipped and vtec .

Walbro 255lph rewired with 30amp relay.

New filter, cleaned injectors with new seals, new feed line from tank to filter.

I'm not lie to you I not even remember the last time I did a valve lash but was this year when I switch the cams.

 

it does sound like a stuck IACV IMO , i had a IACV stick on me before and did not throw a CEL. sometimes you can clean it, but it still sticks...

 

Sounds like ignition problems check the wires an replace them with blue ngk. Buy a new cap an rotor, OEM ones an since u have it apart change the ignition coil use accel works great

 

new dizzy, wires and plugs.

After a lot of test i find low voltage between ECU pins D17 + D21= 1.58v. I need to pick up a used stock MAP at my friend shop tomorrow for test.

If I get ~3.v my MAP is toast
If I still getting low voltage my ECU is toast.

In the mean time I need to know what are the numbers for the capacitors and resistors for the map in the p06 board to check for burning parts.

 

If its tour map sensor then fix it as soon as possible I've seen motors get distroyed because of that