Is it uncommon for OEM plug wires to still be good after 12 years?
I was troubleshooting a misfire at slight throttle (cruising speed) in my 1996 CD5/F22B1/Auto with 190k this evening so of course I checked the spark plug wires. I checked resistance and then did the spray bottle test with water and the engine running. They passed both tests with flying colors! The terminals that go into the head are free of oil and the wells are bone dry. The wires are marked 2001 and are Sumitomo brand. Is age alone any reason to swap them out or as a long-time domestic driver am I just being paranoid?
Depends on when the wires were actually installed, may say 2001 but they may have been in a box since 2001 unless you know when they were actually installed.
If the misfire is only during part throttle cruise and not at idle nor at WOT or higher than normal cruise rpms I would not suspect the wires or other ignition components.
Check your EGR valve for correct operation, with your fingers pull the valve diaphragm up to open. It should be smooth, it should not catch or feel chunky. With the engine idling ever so slightly and slowly open the throttle and watch the EGR valve, it should open slightly. Verify that the valve is actually receiving vacuum signal and that the diaphragm is not ruptured.
In the Accord FAQ, there is a write up on how to clean/remove the EGR manifold and clean it. However, DO NOT USE SILICONE GREASE. Silicone will poison a catalyst, use petroleum jelly.
Being a '96 check for more detailed OBDII codes, if the car is misfiring it should set a code either for a misfire P030X or for lack of EGR flow P0401, or for insufficient EGR valve lift P1491. OBDI codes can still be checked via the two wire blue connector under the glove box. Jumper wire, turn ignition to II(ON) and record the blinks.
ECU AND ABS CODES HERE!
If the misfire is only during part throttle cruise and not at idle nor at WOT or higher than normal cruise rpms I would not suspect the wires or other ignition components.
Check your EGR valve for correct operation, with your fingers pull the valve diaphragm up to open. It should be smooth, it should not catch or feel chunky. With the engine idling ever so slightly and slowly open the throttle and watch the EGR valve, it should open slightly. Verify that the valve is actually receiving vacuum signal and that the diaphragm is not ruptured.
In the Accord FAQ, there is a write up on how to clean/remove the EGR manifold and clean it. However, DO NOT USE SILICONE GREASE. Silicone will poison a catalyst, use petroleum jelly.
Being a '96 check for more detailed OBDII codes, if the car is misfiring it should set a code either for a misfire P030X or for lack of EGR flow P0401, or for insufficient EGR valve lift P1491. OBDI codes can still be checked via the two wire blue connector under the glove box. Jumper wire, turn ignition to II(ON) and record the blinks.
ECU AND ABS CODES HERE!
Thanks for the info MAD_MIKE. I've actually already done the EGR cleanout per the FAQs about a year ago. I just pulled it apart again to check the cleanliness. Very little new deposits. I noticed the metal EGR Chamber Gasket was missing some of the rubber coating around the edges. I reused it last time and didn't think to check it. I'm wondering if a vacuum leak at this gasket would cause my misfire. Also, no codes at all with the light and confirmed with the Torque app and a bluetooth adapter.
should be easy enough to just replace the gasket and find out if the misfire goes away. i suppose it's possible to get a misfire that way. but this would be the first time i've heard of it.
I've come across so many burnt exhaust valves causing misfire in the last three years that i now check there right after checking the spark gap and dist. cap wear/corrosion. the way i check is to turn the engine over by hand to get the suspect cylinders valves all shut. Then i use a long-neck blow nozzle with compressed air in the spark plug hole. you'll hear and feel from the tail pipe the air flow. this doesn't work as well if you have a leaky exhaust, but you should still be able to hear it.
you could also do a compression test. good place to start too.
I've come across so many burnt exhaust valves causing misfire in the last three years that i now check there right after checking the spark gap and dist. cap wear/corrosion. the way i check is to turn the engine over by hand to get the suspect cylinders valves all shut. Then i use a long-neck blow nozzle with compressed air in the spark plug hole. you'll hear and feel from the tail pipe the air flow. this doesn't work as well if you have a leaky exhaust, but you should still be able to hear it.
you could also do a compression test. good place to start too.
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Supahr_Ed
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Jun 3, 2007 08:37 PM






