Mini-me/5sp swap. wont start. help?
Alright. So I did an auto to manual swap and a mini me swap this weekend on my hatch. Cant get car to start. Ive got a 2000 civic dx hatch. Put on a y8 head and IM and an ex trans. Car will turn over but wont fire up. Switched IACV from 3 wire to 2 wire and switch ecu pins for the fix. Wired up vtec as well. Also did the neutral safety switch bypass in the center console plug by splicing together the 3 wires. In addition I did change the rod bearings/bolts, water pump, and timing belt along with all new seals. Mechanical timing is correct. "UP" is up on cam gear when engine is at TDC. White mark on Harm. balancer is aligned with notch on timing cover. Im getting spark and fuel. I also have all plugs on wiring harness connected to right places. Running a chipped p28 ecu for a mini me swap. tested ecu. Runs my friends 95 ex just fine. I think Ive covered the bases of everything ive got going. Any suggestions or thoughts on what might be causing it not to start?
check and make sure you didnt switch IACV and TPS sensors. is battery charged? starter working properly? are u running the proper ecu? you need a specific vtec/manual ecu. Ive done a mini me swap and ran into that problem. i have a p2p in mine. did you upgrade fuel injectors from y7/y8 if not youll run it dry. Run a compression test and make sure you have same compression across the board. got gas? Its awlays the stupid **** that gets us...
you mean the map and tps sensors? they are correct. used the haynes manual to make sure all plugs are correct according to wire color. ecu: yes chipped p28. battery is fine. had it on trickle charger while doing the swap. on the starter....idk. its turning the engine over. but its just not firing. running y8 injectors. full tank of gas. you can smell it loading the cylinders after trying to turn it over a few times. and on the vacuum lines. i kind of went off of the diagrams ive found on here and other various forums. sadly the haynes manual doesnt have a hose diagram for y8 specific intake. I think i have them correct. Its kinda acting like the timing is out. but all the timing marks appear to line up when Ive got it set to TDC and the dizzy is pointing at #1 plug. im kinda stumped
The y8 head i have is from a 98 and the intake manifold is from a 2000. So until i didnt know ab the fuel injector vents. I capped the port off on the intake manifold. Is this sufficient? Or do i need to take the intake off and use some jb weld on the ports on the mating side of IM? will this keep the engine from starting?
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The valves needed adjustment. They were not completely closing at TDC. Taped out the intake and put in some set screws to fix the vacuum leak. Now the only problem I have other than getting the timing set just right is that my vtec wont engage. Cant figure out why. Ive ran the pressure switch and solenoid wires to the right spot on the ecu harness. The ecu runs fine. I did test it in my buddies car. Not sure if i mentioned that or not. The crossover is set pretty high though. Didnt engage until around 5200 on my buddies car.
The dizzy is the same Honda part# 30100-P2E-A12 for Y7 and Y8. I'm about to do a MINI-me so I'm watching your progress.
I know that the timing is off some. I cant get it set perfectlly. At TDC with all the timing marks lining up, the ignition timing will not line up with the indicated notch on lower timing cover. Its firing past TDC with the distributor all the way advanced. It had a bad hesitation to it set this way. Then I advanced the mechanical timing 1 tooth, checked it again with timing light and tried to adjust ignition timing accordingly and it still wouldnt dial in right. Now Its too far advanced with the dizzy retarted all the way. I guess I am going to have to get an adjustable cam gear to fix the timing issue. It runs a lot better obviously with the timing advanced, but I wouldnt think that because the timing is advanced that it would throw the ecu into limp and not engage vtec? And yes I jumped the service connector before trying to adjust the timing. The head was machined and had to be slightly shaved because it was warped is the reason Im having the timing issue.
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