I NEED HELP
Alright just to start off my mechanic told me to get a new ecu because the code 9 keeps coming up (third distributor that's been put in the car.) and now im getting a code 6 and 10. could i be getting these from a faulty ecu? or do these problems have no relation the each other? thanks!
95 honda accord LX 2.2
95 honda accord LX 2.2
I have a code 9 in the exact same year accord, yet the car runs fine thus I live with the check engine light staying on.
IF your car runs smooth I would suck it up and live with it. If the car does not run then you will have to figure out the problem. As to your question you will need to to do electrical testing, and I would start with the procedures in the helms manual (IF YOU HAVE ONE) and continue from there.
Checked the helms and it COULD be an issue with the ECM. It sounds like you're not doing any testing, your mechanic is. Actually most mechanics don't do electrical testing they just swap parts. I were you I'd start learning because this could cost you money.
Code 9= CYP sensor (cylinder positioning sensor)
code 6= ECT (engine coolant temp. sensor)
code 10= IAT sensor (Intake air temp. sensor)
IF your car runs smooth I would suck it up and live with it. If the car does not run then you will have to figure out the problem. As to your question you will need to to do electrical testing, and I would start with the procedures in the helms manual (IF YOU HAVE ONE) and continue from there.
Checked the helms and it COULD be an issue with the ECM. It sounds like you're not doing any testing, your mechanic is. Actually most mechanics don't do electrical testing they just swap parts. I were you I'd start learning because this could cost you money.
Code 9= CYP sensor (cylinder positioning sensor)
code 6= ECT (engine coolant temp. sensor)
code 10= IAT sensor (Intake air temp. sensor)
Last edited by kidcool1977; Nov 16, 2013 at 09:38 PM.
I have a code 9 in the exact same year accord, yet the car runs fine thus I live with the check engine light staying on.
IF your car runs smooth I would suck it up and live with it. If the car does not run then you will have to figure out the problem. As to your question you will need to to do electrical testing, and I would start with the procedures in the helms manual (IF YOU HAVE ONE) and continue from there.
I'll look to see if there is any correlation to the codes you mentioned and the ECM
IF your car runs smooth I would suck it up and live with it. If the car does not run then you will have to figure out the problem. As to your question you will need to to do electrical testing, and I would start with the procedures in the helms manual (IF YOU HAVE ONE) and continue from there.
I'll look to see if there is any correlation to the codes you mentioned and the ECM
Last edited by bcintron95; Nov 16, 2013 at 09:42 PM.
Checked the helms and it COULD be an issue with the ECM. It sounds like you're not doing any testing, your mechanic is. Actually most mechanics don't do electrical testing they just swap parts. I were you I'd start learning because this could cost you money.
Code 9= CYP sensor (cylinder positioning sensor)
code 6= ECT (engine coolant temp. sensor)
code 10= IAT sensor (Intake air temp. sensor)
Code 9= CYP sensor (cylinder positioning sensor)
code 6= ECT (engine coolant temp. sensor)
code 10= IAT sensor (Intake air temp. sensor)

Let me guess you got a distributor from one of the auto parts suppliers, pepboys, autozone, napa etc.?
i'd leave it be, choice is yours. If it was OBD II I would worry because you can't pass inspection with a check engine light. That's how it is in the state I live in, could be the same for you 
Let me guess you got a distributor from one of the auto parts suppliers, pepboys, autozone, napa etc.?

Let me guess you got a distributor from one of the auto parts suppliers, pepboys, autozone, napa etc.?
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