What's up everyone

Took the R for a spirited run and came back with a bad engine knock. I have noticed I have also been consuming a lot of oil also.
I did some searches and wanted some opinions in the forum for a quality rebuild.
I want NA and reliable. Plans for the car are weekend track car, not a daily driver but I want reliable.
Also. I live in tampa and need a reliable shop if anyone knows one.

Thanks guys.

 

Oem=reliable

 

So all OEM?
Anyone rebuilt their engine differently and have. Better result?

 

I have a 2.0L B18C5 with forged internals and lumpy cams and it's reliable. i don't drive it much but it sees track time and performs flawlessly.

 

What parts did you use? What's the best website for parts ?

 

Thats also a multi thousand dollar build. You can build a oem quality rebuild for a couple bucks. Just research it, people will not spoon feed you info. OEM rebuild kits are a dime a dozen.

 

geeez! you really like to send people searching, do you?

The OP did specify he searched....but I guess you missed that right?

what are you H-T's police or whatever? the US message board control office?

seems like almost everytime you write something, it's to knock on people.

If you can't help, just don't bother answering dude.

People get flammed for reviving old treads and when they start some new ones they get flammed too.

Not everybody has been around for 5-10 years and even then, some parts have been discontinued, some new ones have come up, prices change and sometimes only time tells what are/were the better options a few years down the road so I don't see nothing wrong with the OP's question or many other topics where people get criticized for.

...and what's the point of message boards if discussing stuff becomes like a crime?!? what do you think, that people will suddenly re-invent the wheel?

ITR's have been around for 15 years, so the best way to make this section die is by either refusing to help by not answering when you know the answer and getting on people's back for asking questions and not knowing...the next thing you will know everyone will be gone for good, is that what we want? down the road might be happy to have someone to talk to when you're gonna be the one in need for some help.

If you don't like it here, just go into the current civics or whatever model forum and you'll have plenty of new topics to talk about...you think that all of a sudden by some magical way something new is gonna pop-out from here?maybe, but not very often anymore so either get used to it or turn away my friend.

 

If you're going to rebuild it, spend the extra time and money for better parts. OEM is always a good idea, but you if you can spare some extra $$, why not go forge rods, and pistons (make sure you do your homework!!)? If you want a budget build weekend car, you can always send off your rods to the machine shop and shot peen them. The key to a reliable freshly built motor (regardless if its stock rebuild or performance) is finding the right shop. Hell, if you really want to be on a super budget build it yourself! It's not as hard as it looks. Just make sure the machinist actually measures out the cylinder wall. Often times people over look checking the cylinder wall for distortion when rebuilding a motor (unless you're boring it out, but I would still double check it). If lets say your cylinder walls are perfect, you can hone the block yourself. Just make sure you take your time and get that cross hatch.

In terms of parts, there are PLENTY. Its all about how deep your pockets are. Remember to do lots of research, pick the one YOU feel comfortable with. Some people like super tech, and others might like ferrea valves.

Some people don't like buying things brand new and other prefer it to be new so they feel satisfied. If you can afford to wait for a used item so its cheaper, then by all means go for it. I got a set of forge rods for 100 bucks off craigslist, but I also inspected them making sure it is still good. Half the time people either just gave up on the build or they overshot their expenses and was forced to go to plan b.

You can go with...
Forged Pistons - Arias,ROSS, JG,CP,Mahle,Wiseco,Cosworth and etc... (Remember Search) (Low compression for turbo, High Compression for NA, or Mid Compression for both)
Forged Rods - Eagle, Wiseco, CP, Brain Crower, and etc...(H or I Beam up to you)

Valve Train- *DO NOT LOSE YOUR CAM CAPS* *DO NOT BUY CAM CAPS* *DO NOT SELL THEM EITHER* Losing your cam caps will render your head useless, buying them if you lose them will be useless and selling your cam caps is just plain dumb. This pretty much goes for any car I think ( Correct me if I'm wrong). The cam caps we're cut for THAT specific head. (idk why). But each head is different. On to valve train. Valves,Valve springs,Retainers,Keepers,Valve guide, cams, and cam gear if you want to degree your motor. Go with any brand you feel comfortable with. Just make sure you go with dual valve springs. Me personally, I would pick one company and buy the whole package. I've seen people mix and match but thats on you. I've also seen valves drop because people failed to read. Some company requires that you run THEIR keepers. Supertech,Brain Crower, Skunk2, or Blox for the lower budget. If you really want to wow someone get Ferrea Valves or Comp Cams,they are bank. Port, Polish, 3 angle valve job. Port match the intake manifold to whatever throttle body you want. CC the head.

OEM water pump will do, along with tensioner, and gates racing belt. Crank does not need to be balanced. Since Honda actually perfectly (well its perfect to me) balanced the crank. Lightened Crank pulley. Clutch and Flywheel is totally up to you, just make sure you do some research.

Kinda tired and drunk, I hope this made any sense or helped you out.

Edit: Adding on: If you do plan on rebuilding, make sure you check the bearing clearance for the main bearings and rods bearings. Very important.

 

Yes, bc he is the only person to ever ask how to rebuild a motor. Every question he has can be answered just by searching old threads. Not that hard. But I am glad you like to keep up with my posts.

But I'm not gonna clutter his thread with you getting butt hurt. carry on.

 

my opinion wont count for this question..



he specified na.

 

If I were to go turbo....
Thoughts ???
I also need a shop in tampa Florida if anyone knows of one

 

You said you wanted reliable, now you mention a turbo. lol.

If you want a faster reliable car, then sell the ITR and buy something more powerful.

If you want reliable, then do a 100% OEM rebuild.

This is not that difficult of a question.

 

Tough crowd here....
I'm just trying to weigh all my options and wanted some good opinions from fellow R owners...

 

It's just a loaded question with countless variables and no general "one size fits all" type of answer. Perhaps if you tell us your budget and what your expectations are with that budget we can steer you in the proper direction. You can research the "All Motor" section for some further info and look at what others have done in the past.

There are a number of us on here that spent years researching, comparing, reading, questioning, applying, failing, trying again, etc when it comes to choosing parts built for the application intended. It has been a long road for some, including myself. So when someone asks a super general question that can easily be researched through the numerous past threads on the same subject, well; that explains some of the answers on here. Don't take it personally. Welcome to the forum

 

call john at LHT performance hes in pinellas park and a very reputible man. he can help you out. I too live in the tampa area and go to him for all my R related troubles.

 

My budget is probably around 3k.
I have my stock engine that I want rebuilt.
I will call LHT and talk to john.

 

I just did an OEM rebuild on mine, runs great, still burns oil and I don't know why.

 

If there has ever been a desire for you to build your motor, now would be the time. just my .02

 

if you dont try to make lots of power, forced induction isnt a bad route..

 

I have owned and built many reliable non oem motors and lasted.. my last one lasted 5 years and 45k before I sold it so it is possible no matter what other people think. all you need is a reliable machine shop who knows what they are doing not some fool in a barn with a torque wrench who thinks they know. you can put upgraded rods and pistons and be fine. it only gets unreliable when you go to big ie 15:1 or big turbo. my last motor was a 12.5-1 eagle rods and cp piston motor port and polished head with skunk2 pro 1 cams and skunk2 valvetrain never had a problem and took beatings everyday I owned it. most people who said they don't last are people who never had one.. to take everybodys advice lightly because a lot of R people think you shouldn't do anything but oem because R's are made of gold. 3k will easily re build the motor with upgraded parts.. as shops I don't know florida. look up IPG and td autowerks I know they are florida but know idea where

 

IMO 325 whp should be fairly reliable/fun/streetable/trackable/managable/etc if you build it right and not drive it like you stole it.

 

i don't drive it much but it sees track time and performs flawlessly.

 

it was..



only problem is once you get that monkey on your back, not letting him convince you more would be better..

 

This!....has caused many boosted motors to fail. Just a liiiittle bit more boost increase over and over again. It's just not worth the headache (to me) in the end. Build it for your personal enjoyment and not try to play the "mine's bigger than yours" contest. Built right I'm sure 325-350 WHP would last me for many years on a FWD Honda.

 

i probably could have still been on the stock block in mine..




i wanted to have more fun though...ha ha...the rush you get from that parabolic power curve...man..