How do I correctly torque my cam gears onto my skunk2 cams?
Hey everyone, I really don't know where to post this question of mine but I figured here would be my best bet, I read a lot in this particular forum. I have done a lot of reading and research using google searching mainly on honda-tech however my luck is pretty bad. Didn't come up with anything that would help me.
This is my first time doing a cam swap let alone my first build. I guess I am just affraid that I may break something by doing it wrong.
To get my old cam gear off I ran a chain through the slots of my OEM cam gear and used a socket and wrench to break loose the bolt (I already removed my camshaft from the engine). I tried using an impact wrench to loosen up the bolt but that was no luck.
I have just recently installed my cam gears onto my Skunk2 Tuner 1 camshafts, however right now I am stuck because I don't know how to torque the cam gear bolt correctly to the 40 ft/lbs of torque onto the camshafts.
My question is what are some ways that one can use to correctly torque this bolt? Please share what has worked for you in the past and what hasn't.
Thanks in advance!
This is my first time doing a cam swap let alone my first build. I guess I am just affraid that I may break something by doing it wrong.
To get my old cam gear off I ran a chain through the slots of my OEM cam gear and used a socket and wrench to break loose the bolt (I already removed my camshaft from the engine). I tried using an impact wrench to loosen up the bolt but that was no luck.
I have just recently installed my cam gears onto my Skunk2 Tuner 1 camshafts, however right now I am stuck because I don't know how to torque the cam gear bolt correctly to the 40 ft/lbs of torque onto the camshafts.
My question is what are some ways that one can use to correctly torque this bolt? Please share what has worked for you in the past and what hasn't.
Thanks in advance!
Put a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft bolt and pin it to the floor opposite the way you need to torque the gear bolts. The 40 ft/lbs you're using on the gear wont break loose the crankshaft bolt.
To be honest, I always just guesstimated, the torque on the cam gear, as long as it's not stupid tight or loose is not that big of a deal.
To be honest, I always just guesstimated, the torque on the cam gear, as long as it's not stupid tight or loose is not that big of a deal.
No. The tension is being put on the breaker bar, not the timing belt. And trust me 40 ft/lb of torque is nothing on a timing belt. They take way more abuse than that under a WOT full.
your cams should have a hex on them, that you put a wrench on to hold from turning while you tighten the gear bolt. do yours not have a hex on them?
Put a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft bolt and pin it to the floor opposite the way you need to torque the gear bolts. The 40 ft/lbs you're using on the gear wont break loose the crankshaft bolt.
To be honest, I always just guesstimated, the torque on the cam gear, as long as it's not stupid tight or loose is not that big of a deal.
To be honest, I always just guesstimated, the torque on the cam gear, as long as it's not stupid tight or loose is not that big of a deal.
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i use a home made tool. works like a charm 


If your cams are already off the engine with the gears in them still, you can use a vise to grip them gears BUT wrapped around with a used t-belt. I do it all the time with no issues at all.
Be careful not to over tighten the vise though. Start lightly then adjust the tightness when it slips still.



If your cams are already off the engine with the gears in them still, you can use a vise to grip them gears BUT wrapped around with a used t-belt. I do it all the time with no issues at all.
Be careful not to over tighten the vise though. Start lightly then adjust the tightness when it slips still.
While the cams are out of the car I usually wrap the old t-belt around the gear, cinch and clamp it (by the belt) in a vise and torque.
Non-vtec motors have holes in the cams and caps that allow you to drop a pin or hex wrench into to lock the cams. I wish Honda would have done that across the board.
Otherwise, theses are a real nice thing to have around but expensive if you only plan on doing this once:
Non-vtec motors have holes in the cams and caps that allow you to drop a pin or hex wrench into to lock the cams. I wish Honda would have done that across the board.
Otherwise, theses are a real nice thing to have around but expensive if you only plan on doing this once:
Thanks to all of you with your genius ideas! I was able to get the cam gear bolt torqued correctly to 40ft/lbs.
All that I can say is that the car is running smooth as heck now. Before the timing on this motor was off! The exhuast cam was off 1 tooth, I was able to re-set the timing and put cam gears on my skink2 tuner 1s. All that I can say now is that the car is smooth! The transition from low cam to high cam is silky smooth. The power band is very nice now! No more sling shot effect when VTEC hits.
Thanks again guys!
This is what I did.
All that I can say is that the car is running smooth as heck now. Before the timing on this motor was off! The exhuast cam was off 1 tooth, I was able to re-set the timing and put cam gears on my skink2 tuner 1s. All that I can say now is that the car is smooth! The transition from low cam to high cam is silky smooth. The power band is very nice now! No more sling shot effect when VTEC hits.
Thanks again guys!
Put a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft bolt and pin it to the floor opposite the way you need to torque the gear bolts. The 40 ft/lbs you're using on the gear wont break loose the crankshaft bolt.
To be honest, I always just guesstimated, the torque on the cam gear, as long as it's not stupid tight or loose is not that big of a deal.
To be honest, I always just guesstimated, the torque on the cam gear, as long as it's not stupid tight or loose is not that big of a deal.
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