Ok please help guys!!!

B18B1 Block
JDM B20 P8R Head
B16B Pistons
3 Mil OEM Headgaet,
Typer R Water pump
Gsr Timing Belt.

Everything i have read over the course of the last few days is that When using a Typer R Water then you must use a Type R or GSR timing belt. Tho the tensioner doesn't matter.

Also, countless people have run the P8R Head on the B18 with no problems. They bolt right on with no modifications.

that being said, I should be able to use the above combination of parts without any issues correct?

Because after 4 hours of stretching that belt, attempting to get it on, i ripped the belt in half... honestly i only needed a belt that is 1 tooth longer and i would have had it on there!

Does anybody have experience with mating these things together? I should probably put this in the All-Motor section, but i know us EF guys are more fond of helping each other out.

Cars Out of commission and my only ride at the moment any help would be greeeeeeeatly appreciated.

 

i would say try using the b18/b20 timing belt

 

How were you stretching it? Actually WHY were you stretching it...for four hours? This isn't something that should take that long. How did you remove the old one?

 

You are going to run over 13:1 compression, on stock LS/B20 cams? Did you check your piston to valve clearance? That piston has a hell of a dome.

 

I don't know why people use CTR pistons, they of a poor design. The dome is so high, that all of the air sitting at the bottom of each side of the piston does not ignite properly. Every CTR engine i have pulled apart has major carbon deposits because of this

Also, because you are running suck high compression, i don't think a regluar timing belt is a very good idea. You will have to source out something stronger.....

- Todo
- Greddy
- Gates Racing belt (blue)

 

This is weird. You do have the timing belt tensioner loose right? Pick up a couple of the timing belts (different ones) at the parts store and return the ones that don't work?

But it has been suggested to go with a better quality belt.

 

That's the only thing I can think of that would cause it to take 4 hours and to break the belt in the end.

 

DFidnt realize how long it had been since I had been on here.

Autozone had given me the wrong timing belt twice!!!! After counting the teeth I realized that it was one tooth short. so was the first one they gave me. So after finding the right belt it dropped on perfectly.

As far as the compression on the street, so far I have had no drivability issues. only idle issues.
Also the engine runs on 91 Oct with no Noticeable pinging, but really screams with some 104.

I'm thinking because the b20 head has a larger combustion chamber then its dropping the compression just right. That or these are also B16 rods in the block. The guy honestly couldn't remember which rods he had the machines shop install. are those interchangeable?

 

it took you 7 months to get that fixed?

 

hahaha.... no. I fixed it the next day, but ive been too busy over the last 7 months to touch this thread lol. Driving the car daily ever since, love this high comp thing :-)

 

How much more does it scream with 104 oct. vs 91?

You don't know what rods are in your engine? Seems legit.

 

lol the lower block was assembled 6 years ago, wrecked the car 2 weeks into the build, shrink wrapped up the motor and stuck it on a shelf.

I threw on a P8r head and dropped it in my car. He cant remember if when he bought all new OEM B16B pistons, if he bought new Rods or not. He knows they were shot-peened and ARP'd but it was too long ago for him to be sure.

There are a few differiences on 104 vs. 91. vs 87

87 I can drive around town at 50%. and at that is just stutters and smells like *** coming out of the exhaust.

91 with a booster is my Daily mixture, and it still has an occational miss every 45 seconds or so, just a little cough. But its also hard to start in the morning. Its like the first few seconds its only on 2 cylinders. ok low end, awesome midrange, and a decent continuous pull thru 7900

104
The exhaust sounds differient. more like a steady purrrrr vs and Cam'd ricer stutter. les reasp than the weaker fuels. little more low end, at 3600 is really pulls haaaaaard thru 6 and from 6 up its still a very respectable pull for a non vtec head. Also the car starts right up first bump in the morning when it had 104. Half a rotation and it fired right up! 2 Batteries Help with spinning over a high comp motor lol.
once I have a few more things fixed ill get a couple pull videos of different octanes.

 

Is it tuned? It doesnt sound like it is...

Also, I wouldnt trust stock LS/B20 valve springs much past 7500rpm. JMO.

 

Nope, I really wish I had the cash to finish the OBD1 conversion and then get it tuned. I bought all my OBD stuff from a guy on facebook then her gets locked up. now I need to work on a Cali Legal OBD1 conversion harness for my wagon. :-(
The car never really gets run out that high. It has a CTR pully on it, and even tho its balanced I don't trust it. waiting to get my OEM pulley back from the machine shop. they turned it down to a single belt