much needed 1990 integra help!
So i bought a 1990 integra gs with a mt. the car has a 130,000 miles on it and has a b&m short throw shifter. the car also has a bad tranny mount. okay so heres the problem, the tranny grinds into 3rd and 4th gear at any rpm over 3000ish when up shifting. second gear only grinds at high rpms and an occasional grind in fourth when down shifting. the shifter also has issues such as a looseness where to linkage attaches to the tranny. ( were the roll pin goes) and the shifter also gets tight once everything gets warmed upalmost like there is a resistance even in neautral. so im curious if this is more of a clutch, syncro or shift linkage issue. If I didnt explain well enough please lmk and i will do my best to get a better description fpr you. Im a little desperate to get this figured out seeing as this is my daily driver and i just bought the damn car.
ive been driving the car easy since ie got it but i ran up the rpms today and it grinds in every gear but 5th. so the synchros could be bad for all the gears?
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Ohhhh more false info being spread on here ? why is my K Tuned B/D adjustable shifter "****" please tell me. No it's the cheap china/ebay one's that give it a bad rep or ppl not knowing how to drive/shift
It can be the clutch, the clutch springs may be broken...
https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&s....0.fry2aT63sTw
But I would still replace the shifter with a stock one and as mentioned, before you do anything, drain and replace the transmission oil, a low oil level will have about the same symptoms.
If that does not solve the problem, drop the transmission so you can inspect the clutch, if it is old, [or you do not know when it was last replaced] just replace the clutch, as long as you have gone to all the work of dropping the transmission.94
https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&s....0.fry2aT63sTw
But I would still replace the shifter with a stock one and as mentioned, before you do anything, drain and replace the transmission oil, a low oil level will have about the same symptoms.
If that does not solve the problem, drop the transmission so you can inspect the clutch, if it is old, [or you do not know when it was last replaced] just replace the clutch, as long as you have gone to all the work of dropping the transmission.94
I had a friend and his clutch cable was out of adjustment which caused every gear to grind. Maybe worth a check before buying and pulling stuff apart.

Anyway, It' not all that hard to drop the transmission in these cars man. Should only take a couple hours your first time. Leave that as a last resort though. I've heard of people having shifting issues when their shifter bushings are all worn out, but I don't think that would create a major grinding issue like you're having. Hope you get it figured out
alright so i started with the gm synchromesh today and its helped but it hasnt stopped grinding. i did get on it today because i wanted to put the clutch under a fair amount of stress and i got a nice slip from third to fourth so im feeling confident that it is the clutch. haha the weird thing is, is that i thought i heard it slightly slip before today but it was so little and quick i thought i was just going crazy. another thing. i have been adjusting the clutch cable as well, does it matter how tight the cable is as long as its tight? meaning can i adjust it to what ever point in the pedal travel (withing in reason of course) i think feels good? Or is there a specific feel im trying to go for here?
Im also changing the shift linkage from my other da the see if that helps as well. but with how the clutch slipped today there is deffinatly an issue with it.
The clutch pedal should have a little "free play" at the top, [1/2" or so] as long as the release bearing shaft lever, lever at transmission the cable is connected to is all the way to the "bottom", [not being held back by a cable that is to tight or clutch pedel that is not adjusted properly] you will be fine. 94
That cable should be LOOSE!
You should be able to grab the cable above the big plastic nut and pull it up and down about 3/16". The movement should be very free and easy, requiring almost no effort at all.
But a tight cable won't cause your grinding.
What will cause grinding:
-- A clutch friction disc that's sticking on its splines.
-- A friction disc that's worn out or damaged so that it won't "pop" away from the flywheel when the pedal is pushed.
-- Low lubricant level.
-- Incorrect lubricant that allows too much slip in the synchros.
-- Worn synchros.
-- Moving the shift lever too fast.
If you get grinding in ALL gears, that points to the clutch or to incorrect lubricant. Try the correct Honda MTF (dealer only!). If that doesn't help, then you've likely got clutch issues.
Have you tried a split-second pause in neutral before moving the lever to the next gear?
You should be able to grab the cable above the big plastic nut and pull it up and down about 3/16". The movement should be very free and easy, requiring almost no effort at all.
But a tight cable won't cause your grinding.
What will cause grinding:
-- A clutch friction disc that's sticking on its splines.
-- A friction disc that's worn out or damaged so that it won't "pop" away from the flywheel when the pedal is pushed.
-- Low lubricant level.
-- Incorrect lubricant that allows too much slip in the synchros.
-- Worn synchros.
-- Moving the shift lever too fast.
If you get grinding in ALL gears, that points to the clutch or to incorrect lubricant. Try the correct Honda MTF (dealer only!). If that doesn't help, then you've likely got clutch issues.
Have you tried a split-second pause in neutral before moving the lever to the next gear?
I'm just re-thinking my last reply...
I've got nearly 414,000 miles on my original gearbox (bought car new). My first clutch went 255,700 miles; my second clutch now has nearly 158,000 miles on it. I think I know a few things about how to make clutches and transmissions last.
Everything else being OK, a sticking clutch disc should NOT cause grinding, but instead should cause the lever to refuse to go into gear. That would be the function of the balk/blocking rings within the gearset, which are there for that specific purpose.
There is a simple test you can perform. It requires that you use your fingertips only, and VERY little force on the lever.
1) Start out in 1st gear as usual. Speed the car up so that the engine is turning about 3500/4000rpm, then push the clutch and let off the gas, as usual.
2) Using your fingertips only, gently move the lever down, through neutral, then attempt to move it into 2nd using only as little force with your fingertips as you would use when opening a drawer in your kitchen, then maintain that pressure. Gentle gentle gentle. Light touch. Slow. Give the machinery time to do its thinking.
What should happen is that the shifter ought to refuse to move into 2nd initially, but a split-second later should then drop into 2nd without any grinding at all.
Now try the slow-and-fingertippy approach with the rest of the gears. What happens? Any grinding?
I've got nearly 414,000 miles on my original gearbox (bought car new). My first clutch went 255,700 miles; my second clutch now has nearly 158,000 miles on it. I think I know a few things about how to make clutches and transmissions last.
Everything else being OK, a sticking clutch disc should NOT cause grinding, but instead should cause the lever to refuse to go into gear. That would be the function of the balk/blocking rings within the gearset, which are there for that specific purpose.
There is a simple test you can perform. It requires that you use your fingertips only, and VERY little force on the lever.
1) Start out in 1st gear as usual. Speed the car up so that the engine is turning about 3500/4000rpm, then push the clutch and let off the gas, as usual.
2) Using your fingertips only, gently move the lever down, through neutral, then attempt to move it into 2nd using only as little force with your fingertips as you would use when opening a drawer in your kitchen, then maintain that pressure. Gentle gentle gentle. Light touch. Slow. Give the machinery time to do its thinking.
What should happen is that the shifter ought to refuse to move into 2nd initially, but a split-second later should then drop into 2nd without any grinding at all.
Now try the slow-and-fingertippy approach with the rest of the gears. What happens? Any grinding?
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twkdCD595
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Apr 7, 2003 09:02 AM



