Finally pulled the trigger and decided the take off my rear suspension. The very last bolt was on the compensator arm bolt to the body. Of course it just spins inside the body. My question is can I just cut a whole in the floor and put a wrench on the other end? What is that best way to go at it this?


Thanks
Joe

 

Soak the fool in some type of penetrating oil, apply some heat, and bust that baby off.
Good luck, god speed o7

 

I once saw a post where someone cut a little access hole through the bottom of the little "box" to gain access to the nut, then welded the access hole closed after they were done.

 

94CivicSi, so there is a nut on the inside the put a wrench on?

 

Which bolt are we talking about ? having a hard time picturing it, is it the subframe to LCA one ?

 

You can cut an access hole, but it needs to big enough for vice grips, that nut is round on the outside, it has no flat sides for a wrench.

 

It's got (2) flat edges.

Here's that thread I was thinking of. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/compensator-arm-question-pic-how-fix-broken-bolt-2076074/ Scroll down to post #10 for a nice write up with photos.

 

Thanks for the responses!

So I should leave the hole open for the alignment right? So should I replace the tab with a washer and nut? I doubt ill be able to put it back into the slot.

 

You'll have to, you'll never get it lined up otherwise.

 

So if that little bracket rusts off i'm pretty much screwed?

 

Yes. If it is rusted off you can try to cut up a junked car for the nut and track and weld it on in the right place, or try a nut and washer like you said, but I don't think it will hold the alignment for any length of time doing the latter.

 

I am asking this out of curiosity, Isnt the flanged threaded piece (t nut if you will) nothing more than a nut and washer(welded together) captured in the frame? not saying it would be a perfect fix but with threadlock and it tightened properly i would assume this is the same thing as having that factory tnut back in place!?!

 

The slide it runs adds some rigidity and thickness. I think you'll come to find that a nut and washer will loosen over time and start wearing the hole in the body where the bolt goes through bigger. I had the same problem with a front LCA, I cut an access hole and put a wrench on the formerly welded nut, tightened with a really good impact, but I could never keep it tight for very long, finally I just gave up and replaced the subframe, the hole was pretty baggy at that point.

 

the nut your using isnt held in by anything if it is allowed to move in that slotted holder.... its does not allow the nut to spin. The cage that holds the nut is held in with 2 spot welds, its not a stout structual piece. Spot welds are great in shear, this is not adding any support to the surrounding metal. Again nut and washer with loctite or a nylock nut and washer should provide the same support as the above for a fix. I think assumptions of the cages ability to support the surrounding metal are incorrect.

 

I guess I'll find out soon!