Need piston ring end gap clarity for NA build
After doing a bunch of research I've read that your supposed to set the end gap at the product of bore * .00X. My question is - what is X? Some say .0045, some say .006.
I'm rebuilding a b20z back to OE spec for a mild b20Vtec build. The manual says that the top ring should be between .008 and .012 for this, but that would be the tightest X (around high .003x) that I've heard of.
This motor will never make more than 190whp but will see lots of the road course (I'm mentioning this because the heat the motor will see plays in to what X ends up being from what I've read).
Guru's what should my X be? What do you use for X when building your NA motors?
84.5mm, ~10.8 compression B20/GSR,
Thanks!
I'm rebuilding a b20z back to OE spec for a mild b20Vtec build. The manual says that the top ring should be between .008 and .012 for this, but that would be the tightest X (around high .003x) that I've heard of.
This motor will never make more than 190whp but will see lots of the road course (I'm mentioning this because the heat the motor will see plays in to what X ends up being from what I've read).
Guru's what should my X be? What do you use for X when building your NA motors?
84.5mm, ~10.8 compression B20/GSR,
Thanks!
well first off there is no way in hell i would assemble that engine with. 012 ring end gap. roughly speaking i would try to have my gaps somewhere around. 018 and. 021. those numbers use multipliers around. 005 give or take. i have a suspicion though that u will have a ring that has more gap than the others out of the box and that will be the gap u make the others match up to.
what pistons and piston to wall are u using
what pistons and piston to wall are u using
Why would honda have .008-.012 as the spec gap If it shouldn't be?? All top rings have just about the same gap +\- .000x. The pistons/rings are stock b20z replacements - stock compression and all.
.005 is more along the line of what I've been reading but it seems arbitrary... Why .005? Why not .004?
Thanks!
.005 is more along the line of what I've been reading but it seems arbitrary... Why .005? Why not .004?
Thanks!
Those specs do sound a bit tight. I'd be worried about butting ends and cracking a ring land. I personally would run then around .015 top and .018 bottom. Oil rings set the same as the top ring.
Last edited by 93egSLEEPER; Oct 29, 2013 at 12:03 PM.
roadrace or heavy load wot use, tends to generate higher temps in the components
(even if oil and water seem normal) so running a looser clearance is Ok on the top ring
than wat the manual says... after all the manual depicts grocery driving to and fro
the 2nd ring , ive gone way above 0.022 and there were no ill effects so that should be easier , you can increase gaps with a tool from summit
free bonus here is = u dont score the walls if u accidentally overheat (provded u shut down or coast)
and possibly less friction = less windage loss
(even if oil and water seem normal) so running a looser clearance is Ok on the top ring
than wat the manual says... after all the manual depicts grocery driving to and fro
the 2nd ring , ive gone way above 0.022 and there were no ill effects so that should be easier , you can increase gaps with a tool from summit
free bonus here is = u dont score the walls if u accidentally overheat (provded u shut down or coast)
and possibly less friction = less windage loss
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that sounds like how id do them...
we've built a few, that runs production class and 200whp restrictor type class
bseries with 20-25 hotlap/heat , 5lap qualy and 10lap practice
if you're in that window of use.. then go for it
we've built a few, that runs production class and 200whp restrictor type class
bseries with 20-25 hotlap/heat , 5lap qualy and 10lap practice
if you're in that window of use.. then go for it
you don't need to go bigger, .018" and up is friendly for boosted cars that are not at extreme hp levels. no need to go bigger. large end of oem will be fine.
what do you consider large second gap? i always have mine at 3-4 thousandths bigger than the top. as it was explained to me, any gas/pressure that passes the first ring goes past the second ring and is not trapped between causing ring flutter or excessive pressure on the ring/ringland. a good crankcase ventilation system will take care of the expended gas and any oil it may push.
additonally, ive personally lost a motor on the dyno when certain tolerances were too tight. ever since then i build them all a bit loose so i dont have a repeat performance.
additonally, ive personally lost a motor on the dyno when certain tolerances were too tight. ever since then i build them all a bit loose so i dont have a repeat performance.
what do you consider large second gap? i always have mine at 3-4 thousandths bigger than the top. as it was explained to me, any gas/pressure that passes the first ring goes past the second ring and is not trapped between causing ring flutter or excessive pressure on the ring/ringland. a good crankcase ventilation system will take care of the expended gas and any oil it may push.
additonally, ive personally lost a motor on the dyno when certain tolerances were too tight. ever since then i build them all a bit loose so i dont have a repeat performance.
additonally, ive personally lost a motor on the dyno when certain tolerances were too tight. ever since then i build them all a bit loose so i dont have a repeat performance.
what do you consider large second gap? i always have mine at 3-4 thousandths bigger than the top. as it was explained to me, any gas/pressure that passes the first ring goes past the second ring and is not trapped between causing ring flutter or excessive pressure on the ring/ringland. a good crankcase ventilation system will take care of the expended gas and any oil it may push.
The gaps depend on material used as well as intention. Thermal expansion is different on cast iron rings to tool steel ones.
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