Last week purchased a 92 civic d15b7 and noticed it was puttering at idle and gutless as a stuck pig. Don't know who but someone forgot to put in the spark plug seals in the valve cover and so the plug recesses were full of oil. I figured this was the problem so I got new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, valve cover gasket kit, and went to work. Relashed the valves while I had the cover off also. Ran better afterwards but still had the putter around idle.

Did a compression test today, found out what the problem is, #2 cyl has no compression. I believe only a stuck valve or a hole in the piston could cause this kind of difference in numbers. Engine is tired (280xxx) but I just need it to pass emissions for winter is all (which it failed miserably)

My results:
Cyl #1


Cyl #3


Cyl #4


Cyl #2 (w/o oil)


Cyl #2 (w/ oil)


Spark plugs with their corresponding cylinder (around 170 miles on them)

 

It could be minor, it could be major. The only way for you to know is to take the head off and look. I don't think a "stuck valve" is even possible - if the valve doesn't move, the cam either would be able to rotate, or would snap the valve in half.

 

What about a cracked valve with a pizza slice missing?

 

That could cause it. The only way to know is to pull the head and look.

 

If it stuck closed (which doesn't happen) yes. A valve stuck open wont touch the cam at all other than when the lobe would normally open it.

That said I highly doubt it's a stuck valve, if you want to check pull the valve cover and turn the engine over with a bar and watch the valves for that cylinder, if they all open and close you'll have to pull the head and check for a burnt valve, blown headgasket, broken piston, broken rod, etc.

 

No its not. A leak down test would tell you if itsa head gasket or rings or valves and then which set of valves it is.

If you have a compression tester and an air compressor you can make a leak down tester. Google can give you directions.

 

A leakdown tester would point you in the right direction, but won't be 100%. Regardless, the motor will need to come apart to fix whatever the problem is, so this is one of those moments where it's safe to skip the leakdown and go straight to teardown.

 

Thank you very much for the reply's everyone.

You may be right about it being bottom end. I am just hoping that it is in the head, thats a lot easier and I really dont feel like pulling the engine.
I'm afraid to pull the head off for what I will find, opening a box of frogs.

 

Bingo

Finally got around to pulling the head. Ordered a new 200$ head from nwcylinderheads on ebay. Machine shop wanted 250$ to do the job and like 15$ per valve to replace if bad. From the looks of things I probably woulda been upwards of 300$.

 

Wow, those valves look ancient. See people, this is why i say USE SEAFOAM! It will burn off those carbon deposits, and your engine will run loads better and more efficiently. this is first hand proof that engines gum up and need to be cleaned.

 

Not to mention burn up your O2 sensors.

But you take the good with the bad. Replacing an O2 sensor is a lot more attractive.

Ironically, that cylinder's piston is immaculately clean. Explain that one to me?

 

That valve has been burnt for a while, I'd say more likely it looks like that because it's got no compression on that cylinder and the air fuel mixture isn't burning very efficiently than it is that all that crud lead to a burnt valve. If you look at the cylinder to the right you'll notice how much cleaner the valves are.