The check engine light is on and somebody run the test and it shows that cylinder 1 is back firing, can somebody tell me how do I fix it. Thanks.

 

back firing or miss firing? when have you last changed your ignition components. often a missfire is associated with the spark plug/wires/cap/rotor.

could be injector

could be valves out of adjustment.


does your car run noticeably shitty?

 

Misfiring is probably the term he is intending to use.

Start simple. Change plugs, check valve adjustment, use a long screwdriver touching the injector and your ear to see if the injector is pulsing.

 

It is the term that the part salesman used when he finish diagnosing my car, and when you mention the “ignition components” are you talking about Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I haven’t changed any of this part since I bought it, as a brand new. I did change the timing belt, myself, and before doing that I was asking people, who supposedly know about cars. My question was which one of the pistons is #1 and all of them agree that # 1 is the closest to the timing belt. Because according to the “Hynes manual” in a DOHC engine # 1 is the first one on the left side of the engine. So, I used the one near the timing belt. But my main trouble was finding the point from the mark of the lower cover with the mark on the crankshaft pulley, which I couldn’t find. Then I did that by guessing. Before tuning the engine on I did a few turns to the engine to check for nocking sounds. The car is running very well with the exception of some lights clicking from the cover valves, when the engine is cold. Question a) # 1 piston is the one closest to timing belt. B) what is the standard gap for the valves. C) are there any possible damages in the long run for my guessing on the crankshaft pulley?

 

The #1 piston is the closest to the timing belt.

If you didn't do any damage on the first start up there isn't really any damage to happen afterwards. With that said, it needs to be correct for proper fuel mileage and performance. You also can do damage to your oxygen sensors and catalytic converter depending on how the engine is out of time.

So, first thing is make sure mechanical timing is correct

You need a complete ignition tune up after all the time. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires.

Adjust ignition timing

Adjust valve lash

 

The engine has no trouble starting just to mention. So, to correct the timing I need to know with which notch on the pulley the mark of the lower cover has to be pointed, because the only reference that I see is not on the pulley but on the crankshaft, in other words it is only a groove on it with a U shape that has a piece of metal that hold in place the pulley on the crankshaft. And the mark (kind of line) on the lower cover is in a 45 degree pointing to the pulley. Please correct me if I am wrong, that line has to point to the center of the U shaped groove on the crankshaft. And thank so much for the help.

 

There is a dot on the crankshaft timing belt pulley that you line up with an arrow on the oil pump.

Also, just to note. You can't possibly have piston to valve contact on only one cylinder of a running engine. If the timing is off enough for one piston to hit the valves then the rest of the engine is out of time enough to ruin the rest of the cylinders. You could be facing a possible burnt valve or exhaust valve seat that has receded into the head. The valve lash adjustment will confirm the valve seat and a leak down test will confirm the burnt valve. You need to eliminate the simple variables you can yourself first as I mentioned yesterday, then if none of that finds your problem, take it to someone that can do the leak down test for you.

 

If I'm following you correctly, you have a 2001 CRV with original plugs/wires/cap/rotor.

Go ahead and change all of those out. This is most likely the root of your check engine light code for a cyl 1 missfire.

I typically hit up Ebay for parts, lots of people sell whole tuneup kits with everything you'd need for it.

Here's one that is all OEM components at a reasonable price compared to the stealership.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2001-Honda-CRV-OEM-Tune-Up-kit-/221255005308?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3383d3747c&vxp=mtr

Regardless of what you do, if you change your plugs those MUST be OEM NGK plugs, do not use anything else in your honda.

 

The lower plastic cover has a line, which is in a 45 degree angle that is suppose to be alined with a mark on the pulley, but there is not mark on the pulley at all. Question is if piston 1 is at TDC, which I always kept an eye on it, when I installed the belt, it means that the pulley should be aligned with that mark on the plastic cover, that I don't remember. I am going to open everything again to check that. But if need to correct the mechanical timing. Which is my best point of reference. Also, I will change all the parts for ignition.

 

There are 5 marks on the pulley. They are very small. 3 in a group are for ignition timing. The middle is 16°btc one is 14° and the other 18°. The other 2 paired together are TDC. You align those straddling the mark in the cover you are talking about.

 

I want to let you know check engine light is gone, It means something. I will change ignition parts.

 

I am trying to re do the timing belt. I finally found the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the pointer on the oil pump. I found something that I would like to ask you guys, the belt was not tight (sorry I don't know the right word to describe it) but it was easy to move it up and down between the camshaft, it is normal. And both camshaft are to be in line with the hole on the shaft, because I read that you can pass a pin threw them to get totally

 

did you install a new tensioner pulley with the belt? you should if you didnt.

 

Yes I did, and now that I could find all the marks needed to get the engine in timing, all the noise in the engine disappeared, even more; the stalling of the engine is gone, too. Also I changed all the ignitions components. As a result, engine is working well. The only thing that is giving me a lot of headache is the “Cooling system” but I started another thread about; so I will be asking the question on that thread. I want to say thanks guys for all the help. I bought the Honda’s manual for the 1996-2001 CRV. If anybody is interested in getting a copy, PM me.

 

there's actually a very easy to find PDF version of the manual online. just google 1997-2001 crv service manual.

 

Thanks for the head up, by the way do you think I would be able to find the manual for a CRV 2006.