Well after a few months of looking for a cheap beater for the winter I found me a 91 sedan on craigslist for $1500, so I went to check it out. After the shortest negotiation with the shadiest dealership ive ever seen, I ended up getting it for $700. I then proceeded to drive it home 90 miles with plates that came off of a "repo" car that I had to "destroy" when I got home.

First things first, threw on some Rota RB's and project kics lug nuts I had sitting in my shed, and tossed out the 13" steelies. Also threw in a PWJDM shift **** I had in my tool box. I noticed two of the studs are stripped on the back drums, meh- easy fix.

before


after


The tractor push button start its hotwired directly to the starter because the ignition is dead. The ignition does control the fuel pump so if you hit the button without the key it will try to turn over but not fire (no fuel). I think im going to have to replace all the locks, keys and ignition...epic.



The next issue: I replaced a bunch of fuses and got my temp sensor, fuel gauge, and speedometer working. The turn signals are still not working but the emergency flashers work fine so im suspecting the switch is actually damaged. Anyone else have this issue? Am I on the right track replacing the whole assy?

On to the next issue, I have the following cels:
10- IAT sensor

14-IACV. I tried to bleed the radiator a few days ago by removing the cap and letting it run until it reached operating temperature, hoping there would be a bubble in the system and it would be an easy fix, NOPE. It still has the crazy idle that goes from 1k-1500 RPM, so I pulled it out and cleaned it with carb cleaner and it still doesn't work, so ebay it is.

20-Electrical Load Detector. Im guessing its a bad ground from the stereo wires being twisted and taped together, or the fact its hotwired. Either way its the next thing to be fixed....hopfully



I installed the stereo out of my old Integra.



The only speaker in the car hahahha





I always wanted a black interior in my Ek but never had enough ***** to take sems/ duplicolor vinyl dye to it. Well, mise well give it a shot with my ef, the blue color is absolutely hideous and after all, the whole car only cost $700.

I ended up choosing Duplicolor dye just because it was available, Its a little shiny but could pass for being covered with armorall and im impressed with how it turned out. I just hope it lasts a few years and doesn't chip or fade.





I Installed the Momo wheel with boss hub, my old wheel had duct tape holding it together. Baby steps.



My buddy has a console out of a DC2 in his wagovan and I was impressed on how well it fit and looked. I have a extra one laying around out of a JDM Type R I plan on putting it. I really like having cup holders and extra storage besides the glove box. Im still unsure on how im going to get my armrest to fit with the automatic seat belts, and if the JDM one is going to give me a issue because of the RHD angle of it, but I do have the ITR armrest delete just incase and im going to give it a go.




Well that's it for now, its just waiting on parts to show up and taking my sweet time getting the dash to stain. Eventually I want to paint it. I do like the Midori green, but its a little "flossy" for my taste. Maybe a grey or cream color, I don't know yet. I also plan on throwing some coilovers on it but I need to do some research coilovers vs springs and struts first before I pull the trigger.

Any advice or constructive criticism is welcome. This is my first EF, and im still unsure on how far this build will go.

 

the iat and the iacv could the plugs are swapped. they both use the same connectors. try swapping them and see if the codes go away.

I believe you can use the arm rest with the auto belts if you takes the covers off the belt covers.

 

I'll still take it for $700. You can't find hondas that cheap where I'm at. Everytime I go to check one out and give them a reasonable offer, it's always, "It's a honda, they last forever and you can't find them in this condition." Guy who said that the last time had a door that was held shut by velcro and wanted $1500 for it.

Good find. Hope it all works out. I definitely want an EF sedan.

 

Good Build & Nice Car !

 

Thanks for the comments guys. I just got my new IACV in the mail today and I tried to swap the plugs, the cels went away, but then came back on and the shitty idle came back so im going to have to replace it. The wife and I are having some friends over for a beerfest this afternoon so I doubt much more is getting done today. Im going to get drunk.

Stained the dash and put everything back in.


I had to use the ITR armrest delete to get it all to fit right, It was a little of a pain to get it all aligned, but as soon as the ashtray is in it should be good. I did have to swap a few of the Integra and civic cigarette lighter components to get it to work and fit right, Its nice having cup holders though. Im still waiting on my amber clock to show up before I put all the vents back in.



More updates to come.

 

Give some detail on how you got the DC console to fit and how well it lines up. Have one laying around at home I may install in my EF Hatch.

Nice pick up for a "project"/beater!

 

That's how it is here in NC. I see these ads all the time:

"89 Ef wagovan, 350k miles runs fine but may need head gasket replaced due to low compression on cly 1, 3, 4. 15X9 +0 Rota's, and custom pulled fenders using a hammer like the Solbros video I found. I know what this is worth so no lowballers, no bullshit. $4500 OBO, may trade for swaped B series EG or EK LMK."

I was really getting discouraged on finding a complete EF that ran for under $1500, I looked for a lonnnnng *** time, I got really fed up with this straight biller, Swag ***, yolo Honda scene that exploded while I was gone in Japan the last 3 years, but to each their own I guess.

 

You just remove the bottom portion of the EF console and put the DC one on. I had to muscle it in and drill a pilot hole through the DC lower console, into the metal bracket that holds the stereo in, then mount it with a wood screw for now. I need a DC ashtray to align the CF portion above but I think it will do fine. Its not a 100% fit, but it does the job and is all in there snug. I just cant see myself pulling the trigger on a HOP lower console for $150+ that someone got out of the junkyard for $20. The picture really does not do it justice, it looks good, just not great. I still need to tweak it a little.






It may go smoother with a USDM Integra lower console though, IDK?

 

That's how I did my DC lower console. Did a write up around here on it too. But my cigarette lighter is on the other side and the driver side section is longer.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/installing-new-center-console-3119592/

Seriously, if I sold my car, I expect $3,000 out of it tops right now. It's just a JDM B16A running OBD1 on a decent body. Don't see where people get $5,000+ for the same thing on craigslist, but whatever.

HEY! How easy is it to remove those vents? I need to get in there for some wiring. Any ideas where to pick up that center shift boot area? Mine is pretty toast and the boot doesn't fit. I just need the drop in portion. Looks like junk without it.

Oh! Also! There are EF SI cluster on here for $40 shipped. GET ONE. Trust me on it! Looks so clean with a tach. Just makes the car more fun to drive.

 

The vents weren't to bad with the dash out but they were VERY brittle due to the age. They have pop clips on the bottom that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver.

As for the boot area I had most of the stuff already from another car I stripped. I use Ebay fairly often just do to the fact they are buyer orientated so I'm less likely to get ripped off if something doesn't work right. EBAY FTW

and for the EF SI cluster can you pm me the link? Ive seen a few but they all want $100+

 

Sorry to get your hopes up, they were 88-89 clusters which have the square-er hood on them and not the curved one like you have. That was my bad, forgot I got an older EF.

 

Thanks bud, ill find one someday. Its not really a necessity right now but it will be if I ever get around to doing a b swap on her.



Well took her for a drive today, and its a PITA to get it into first and second with the JDM R console so it may come out, or ill have to trim it a little to fit, which I don't want to do.

Bought a few wheel studs for the rear, some VHT wrinkle black paint, and a new gasket for the valve cover, not much, but steady working on it when I have time.

 

Hmm. Never heard of the shifting issue. I like the steady improvement and little changes. You can take your shift boot and sand down the ridges on the inside of the ring that make contact with your shifter, that may help. Or try and get a shifter that is shaped differently. My shift lever is curved, it's from a DA integra. And I put it on backwards so that it curved forward (I think it's backwards at least) so that my shift boot doesn't have to move as far to get into 2nd, 4th, and reverse. But my reverse is still tight with my boot. Not sure if any of that made sense.

 

well because of it being Right hand drive it moves the whole console to the left causing binding issues with 1st and 2nd. Im going to try and grind down the ring like you said and see what happens. Your console is the exact opposite of mine in shape, that may explain why youre having some problems with reverse hahaha.

I replaced the IACV and cleared out the CELS and I still have the surge at idle. Im taking it to a local shop that I trust on Friday to see what they can do for me. Its $90 for diagnoses and as of now I think it will be money well spent, because im stumped.

 

sounds like you have a vacuum leak. when i boosted my car tons of leaks popped up. go around the bay with some carb cleaner and spray everywhere that has a gasket or a vacuum line, see if something comes up

 

This is sound advice. I am going to redo the vacuum lines in my car when I get ready to boost my motor.

 

I originally thought it was a vacuum leak but it idles fine for like 2-3 minutes until its warm, but im still going to give the vacuum lines a check because im cheap.

Got my ITR ashtray in


Painted the cap above the TB and baked it, just need to do the valve cover now. It came out better than I expected it to.



The Ek sprung a leak in the fuel line that goes from the fuel filter to the fuel rail and sprayed gas all on the inside of my hood and stained my bumper. I just had they bumper sprayed about a month ago so it hurts a little. Got one out of a LS for $30 with a fuel rail at the local junkyard, Honda wanted like $140.



more updates to come.

 

Speaking of Honda and their prices. I went to the Honda dealer for a fuel rail banjo bolt. $40. The mechanic there gave me a use one and told me to take this one for free.

The EK looks like it has gotten a lot more love than the EF. Hope the sedan turns out good too!

 

Not much done... Threw in a Feel's intake from a DC2 I had laying around the garage and finished the valve cover.




The head had so much sludge in it im surprised it ran, much less didn't smoke. I scraped most of it out, changed the oil and filter, and threw in a bottle of the motor sludge remover junk and she purrs like a kitten now. Im going to attempt to drive her from NC to MD at the end of the month to get my little girl for Thanksgiving and will change out the oil again when I get back.

Ive seen junkyard motors in better shape.


I think the turn signal problem has to do with the ICU being unplugged and used to hotwire the car. That's the next fix; then I think ill buy skunk2 lowering springs for the EF and my Wife's FA5.

Have a good weekend guys!

 

Looking good

The semi gloss of the dupli color will go away after a bit. I did my grey/black interior in black over a year ago and it is holding up very nicely even with the Texas summers lol

 

Thats GREAT! I dident research it i just kinda did it so its good to hear some first hand experence. Im thinking about putting brown louix v insertes and giving her a $50 rustoleum paintjob (cream or battleship grey) just because; I have money (wife, kids and child support too lol) .... But i want to see the results first hand.

Im going to bondo most of the dings but the roof is ****, and i dont have the resourses to weld another in. On a plus note the wife is getting me a cheap welder for x mas so im going to male some custom mounts for my spare dc2 seats. Im still unsure about how im going to get rid of the auto seatbelts tho..... Anyone link a thread to this?

 

I am sure SEM would be a better way to go, but dupli gets the job done nicely as long as you did good prep work to it (de grease, 1000 grit wet sand, adhesive spray then paint) it will hold up.

 

Well ordered some Tein springs from "Excelsior Racing" to lower her a bit. I specifically asked for a 2" drop and they sent springs that were aprox 1.5" (more like 1.0"). Very disappointed right now.

 

stock


springs



Im thinking of buying these and just throwing the ebay springs that come with it in the trash and using the Tiens.....think id be ok? Ghetto *** Ground control setup hahahah!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-01-Acura-Integra-DC-DC2-GS-LS-RS-GSR-Lowering-Springs-Coilover-Sleeves-White-/161135836536?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1991%7CModel%3ACivic&hash=item258471bd78&vxp=mtr

 

throwing spells while racing?