Most of the time the speedo works, bit odometer never does. I have been told its a fuse that went out.

Also my car will not lock and I don't have a clue on how to fix it and its power windows and locks. I put the key in and it won't turn at all.

 

If speedo works but odometer does not, it is not a fuse it is the speedometer, [gauge cluster] itself.

I am not sure I understand what you mean by, "and its power windows and locks"?
Does that just mean your car has power windows and power locks?
If so, are they stock power door locks?

Also do not know what you mean by, "I put the key in and it won't turn at all"?
Do you mean you put the key in the door lock and it will not turn? 94

 

Ya thats pretty much it. Sorry was half asleep here

 

Will the doors lock and unlock with the power door lock switch inside the car? 94

 

no they won't

 

sounds like odometer is broken, you can try hitting it and seeing if it works, sometimes it does, mine was working every so often by hitting it, but now its just dead.

 

Lol

 

Remove drivers door panel to access the Power Door Lock Control Unit, [orange/red box] test for power on the white/green lead, [door lock power, fuse #6 - 20A] if the fuse is good, [power at both fuse test tips] and no power on the white/green lead at the control unit plug, the problem is most likely broken leads in the door jamb wire boot, [a common problem on older cars, any make or model].

If you have broken leads in the boot, the best fix is to replace the door harness and that can be expensive unless you get the harness from a bone yard and then your getting an old harness so inspect it well.

The next best fix is to repair the breaks, but do not do that at the break, it will only break there again, you need to add some wire, from as close to the A piller plug as possible to inside the door.

The best way to do that is to unplug the door harness from the A piler plug and pull it all into the door, [some wire "hanges" inside the door need to be "unclipped" then pull the harness out the speaker hole, then you can easly untape the rubbrt boot and slide it down the harness add your new wire, makeing one connection as close ti the plug as possible and the other where the wire is inside the door, [solder and shrink tube] rerun the harness and plug it back in, your done.

Hint, you can "peel" the boot off the A piler plug to acces the plug release(s) but put it back on the plug before you plug it back in, [almost impossible to do after it is plugged in].

If on the othe hand you have power on the white/green, check for ground on the black lead, if both are good supply a ground to the black/white, blacdk/red, green/white, green/red, light/blue, light green or the brown lead, [they are lock and unlock triggers from door lock switchs and door lock cylinder switchs] if the locks do not lock or unlockthe PDLCU is bad you will need to replace it. 94

 

Is there a fuse that can be removed to keep the door lock from "clicking" continously and running down a battery? The owner (a senior) does not use her remote to unlock the doors anyway. I would like to be able to just take a fuse out and have the problem of her battery running down stop. Any help here? I haven't used the site long enough to find the answer I am looking for quickly.