hi guys, I was having trouble with my idle, so I remove my iacv and clean it this help a little, then I notice a missing bolt in the fuel rail put a new bolt and take the car for a spin and now when it reach 10-11 psi the Afr's went to
10's and the engine break down. I turned the boost down to 10 psi and it's run fairly good. The car have no CEL, but this can be a bad MAP?

Car is tuned at 17psi running strong for two years.

I having this problem before with rotaries when the injector o rings went bad, but I spray carb cleaner in mines and nothing happen.

thanks for any help
Carlos

 

What bolt was missing exactly?
You didn't mess with the fuel pressure regulator did you?

Post a pic of your engine bay.

 

No, I don't touch anything in the fuel pressure.

the missing bolt was the one in the corner under the FPR that hold the fuel rail attached to the manifold, obviously the plastic spacer was missing so I just tight it a little.

 

right now I don't have a camera but I try to take one with my cheap phone and send it to you.

 

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...22911572291157

 

when mine was breaking up it was because of the gap on my spark plugs. maybe you have the same issue

 

well I always run BKR7E11's @ .025, but I give a try a new ones tomorrow ben a while I not change them.

I order too:

My Honda habit fuel rail stud kit
3 OEM fuel rail insulators
4 X 14mm injectors Bottom o rings

 

looks like you have an oem map sensor... those don't read above 10-11psi... is this car tuned? What ems are you using?

 

Omni 3 bar on crome pro.

I read a thread about the Omni power MAP's failing sometimes.

Yes it's tuned and running strong for two years.

No CEL. The only thing I remove was the iacv and reuse the gasket, maybe need to try a new one.

 

today I have a hard time to get it started, once start when I press the gas it's bogs and die, start right away. If you press the gas slowly once it revved up 1k you can drive it, take it out of the garage to use my other car, when I start her again the idle is at 400rpm and feel very sluggish.

No CEL's.

 

Solved. Swap a new coil I have and good knowing Ignitor.

Apparently the idle and break issues was a bad ignitor.

I don't turn up the boost yet, but it's running and idle fine.

 

Got a question. When it was breaking up was it a strong break? Like hitting fuel cut off? A jolt/loss of power? Like slamming the brakes almost?

I think I may have the same issue with my car right now.

 

Yes, the break was strong like hitting boost cut!!! at WOT

But if you press the gas from cruising to medium to pass another car it accelerate like slowly and you can feel like a loss in power.

The idle was very crappy and the wideband jumping from 14 to 18.

 

Ha! Thanks! I was having an issue where VTEC crossover under WOT was causing a very sketchy drop. I think it may have been my distributor (it was... used to say the least) and this may be my fix. Just switch over to OBD1 from OBD0 so I have a new distributor. Going to try it out. Thanks

 

No problem!!! Hope you fix yours.

Good luck!!

 

well guys, yesterday I turn up the boost and the car start to break up again.
Also I note the Tach. a little wacky in high RPM's.

spend a can of carb. cleaner looking for leaks, nothing. If disconnect the map plug the car dies and the CEL turn on, unplug every injector and they are working properly. Jump the service plug and the CEL remain steady.

When I change the coil and ignitor yesterday, there's oil in the lower part inside the distributor, this may cause this trouble.

 

What CEL?

and yes, if the seals in the snout of the distributor have gone bad and are allowing oil to enter the main case then that is a major problem.. not only can it damage/destroy electrica components but there is a high fire risk if the oil meets an arc from the coil

 

No CEL at all.

Ok thanks, I'm tired of that SH%&T, going to buy a new dizzy.

thanks
carlos