Okay, so I found out the answer to my previous question. I thought I had 'empty' grounds hanging from my jumper harness. Ended up being extra grounds. They were split off of the actual pins. I check the pinout for my OBD0 harness and the pinout for the OBD1 ECU. The jumper harness went from one ground to the other, but had a 'Y' in it so there was a spare ground in my 12 wire portion of the harness. Anyways, figured that out.

I went on with my conversion. But now I'm getting a solid CEL. Watch the video


Turn the key, CEL comes on. CEL goes away. CEL comes back on. Solid CEL.

I'm searching for the answers. Looking for something I may have missed though. Something preferably easy since I don't want to have to plug my PW0 back in and change the distributor so I can go to work this week haha

 

So you got that jumper harness that has the two grounds (A23 and A26) as just dangling wires?
Stock OBD0 wiring takes these connections up to your thermostat grounds as far as I know.
You can either put a lug on them and ground them or hook them to where they were supposed to go on the OBD0 harness.

OBD1 A23 goes to OBD0 A2
OBD1 A26 goes to OBD0 A16

I haven't been able to verify (I don't own a Honda right now), but I believe these two ground connections to the ECU sense if the grounds are secure at the thermostat. If they are not, then the ECU will give you a solid CEL. Grounding to a lug would bypass this ability.

OBD1 D4 is your service connector - grounding it makes your CEL blink codes.


This is a little confusing - "I pulled wires out of some of the pins and put in the new sensors for the B16A."
Pulled wires and pins from where? Put in new sensors?
If you are using an ECU that uses knock sensor, then you need to hook D3 up to the knock sensor. You could extend the D3 wire all the way to the engine bay -or- you could run a wire from the knock sensor and hook it to the OBD0 plug. Just add a pin on the plug as well as a pin to the corresponding plug of the jumper harness. Stock OBD0 PR3 location for Knock is B19

 

Yes. The jumper harness has a 12 wire loom instead of a 10 wire loom like I've seen before. So those grounds are just dangling there. I will find the pin for them on OBD0 ECU and just splice them in there.

I knew that would make trouble. I meant there were wires that went to the ECU (DPFI OBD0) that I removed and plugged in wires such as the knock sensor, VTEC, ect. I guess the MPFI didn't use these wires or they were just dead wires. I have them labeled and just sitting by the ECU.

So my grounds I run to the thermostat housing? Sounds easy enough. Thanks. I'll double check a couple things.

 

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If you run the grounds to the OBD0 pins, then you are done.

 

I meant that is the final location for them. I will find the pins on the OBD0 plugs and use them. But that is just using the stock wiring harness to ground it at the thermostat.

It's late. My internet typing is getting worse and worse.

 

Another question: The OBD0 and OBD1 distributors are not the same, right? I bought an OBD1 distributor and my VTEC solenoid is in the way, so I'll have to mod the distributor I guess. Forgot that when I bought it. But the OBD0 distributor on there won't work with the P28, right?

I search "b16a obd1 distributor" and there is a lot of information that I thought was wrong out there. First link said use the OBD0 distributor, one said use the SOHC distributor, ect ect

 

Inside the distributors there is a reluctor wheel with teeth that is pressed onto the shaft. As the shaft spins, the teeth pass by a sensor and pulses get sent to the ECU. Obd0 and obd1 have different tooth counts so the ECU gets the wrong signal.

Vtec and non-vtec distributors are also a bit different but still can run the engine. A snail looking piece spins around, but it is flipped over different between the two.

So.... You can use any vtec ob1 OR obd2 distributor.

 

you need to match the distributor with the ecu. obd0 ecu with obd0 distributor. obd1 w/obd1.

You bought the wrong distributor thats why one of the leg is in the way of the solenoid.

why didnt you just buy the correct distributor? if you have a b16 head why not get a b16 distributor?

 

Miscommunication. I thought I bought the OBD1 B16 distributor, but it was not. It was advertised wrong I suppose and I didn't pay enough attention.

I also need to hook up B19 (ELD) that I removed for the knock sensor. Not sure what it does. But B19 on my OBD0 harness goes to the ELD on the OBD1 pinout. So I need to put that wire back in. That's what I was saying in my previous post.

Guess I got to get with this seller and see about getting a different distributor. That kinda sucks.

Here's some diagrams so I don't lose them.

 

Okay, will the TD-84u work on an OBD1 B16A? I have one, says it's from a GSR when I googled it. Which means it should work.

 

If this is true, the internals on the two distributors I have are the same. The snail piece on my TD55u and TD84u look to be the same to me. I'm going to clean up the TD84u and put a decent igniter in it and give it a try with my P28.

 

looks like the TD84u distributor is for a OBD2 B16a2 engine. should work but you would need to make a jumper harness for the distributor.
obd1 distributor have two plugs (like our obd0) and obd2 have one plug.
same amount of wiring i believe but obd2 distributor just made it look more simple


Also, when i was doing my B16 swap i rigged my crx si distributor to work on the B16 head. It ran "ok". It was enough for me to get around town while i gathered the right parts.
I had cut a leg off the distributor and had to rotate the distributor all the way to just get the timing to somewhat better.

 

Yep, heard about that being possible. The OBD2 distributor I have actually had OBD0 plugs on it already. I saw were it was heat shrink'd and such. Never realized what distributor it was though. It came with my swap, but it was missing the igniter.

Basically, I got a new rotor, cap and igniter for my OBD2 distributor. So tomorrow I'm going to wire everything up and see if it works.

 

Alright. I tried! And failed.

 

The obd2 dizzy does not have a crank angle sensor. They are external on obd2 engines, located behind the crank pulley.

 

See, I'm getting mixed information when I'm searching.

I thought the OBD2 and OBD1 B-series distributors were the same. Doesn't really explain my solid CEL though. I am going to see if it is my switch wiring.

 

They cant be the same. The crank angle sensor is external on OBD2 engines, while it is internal on OBD0-1 engines.

 

Okay. So I'm looking into this. You're saying I can't use this distributor on my current motor? Right? Shouldn't it throw a code?

 

Also, got the solid CEL code fixed. It was the knock sensor. Now I have a code 20 and 41, but it's not firing. Possibly this distributor issue. CEL 20= ELD, I'll get that wired up/disable. 41 is the Oxygen heater or something. Not sure why that's throwing a code. I'll look into it.

 

Maybe the igniter in my distributor is bad. I'm going to try a different one.

F22, would my OBD2 distributor cause a no-spark situation? I didn't see any spark when I cranked it with that distributor in.

 

If the igniter is bad, you wont have spark. A friend just had that problem last week. Put in a new igniter and its all good.

Im not sure if it would work without the crank angle sensor. It should throw a code 9, but usually only after it is actually running for a few seconds.

 

Haha. After it's running. I replaced the igniter with a known good one. Going to try it again.

I have like 6 distributors on my desk and only 1 is actually together. Trying to get this car to run.

 

Alright. Got it to work. My TD-84 wasn't working right. Took everything out of my TD-55U and put it inside the TD-84U so that the 'ears' would align. Starts right up. Car has never been smoother. Never had a better idle. The OBD1 P28 with the P30 chip does wonders. Much better than the PW0 or PR3 as far as idle is concerned.

In the end, I have no idea why my TD-84U wasn't working.