Hey guys, in my 89 Crx SI I was under the car yesterday just inspecting like I do sometimes and I noticed that my driver inner tie rod has some play in it, is that normal at all?

I can grab the joint where the inner tie rod meets the outer tie rod, and move it slightly, maybe an 1/8" of play. Make a more of a clunking sound if move it closer to the inner tie rod side. Boot looks great and not torn

The passenger side is solid. Both sides inner and outer and even the rack end bushing was changed just 6 months ago. Outer tie rods are moog and I forget if I got oem or moog for the inners.

Im not sure if the inner tie rod has just gone bad prematurely on me, or if my rack end bushing broke already...

 

ball joints should not have play. it means they need to be replaced.

were they from the dealer? ebay? rock auto?

 

None of my ball joints have play, just the inner tie rod Im thinking, but could it possibly already be the rack end bushing.

Im not sure if my inner ball joints were oem or Moog. I know I orderred the bellows, rack end bushing and lock washer from the dealer, so I think I may have gotten the inners oem aswell. I forget..

 

you have no idea what an inner tie rod is, huh.

inner tie rod=inner ball joint.

grab the ball joint with one hand, move the tie rod up and down. if you feel any play in your hand, then replace the balljoint/tie rod.

turn your steering wheel all the way to the left, grab the steering rack under the bellows, shake. if you feel play... then your bushing needs replacement. you may try first tightening the pinion adjustment (i hope you didnt forget to do that before), but it should be easy to distinguish the source of the play.

 

I did not tighten the pinion adjustment the first time I did the rack end bushing, but thats only because I didnt have to as I used an amazing pick to remove the piece without unbolting the rack

I know what an inner tie rod is, I just figured an oem part would last longer than 6-7k miles. Thought it may be something else, car drives fine no clunks or pulls

 

I did not tighten the pinion adjustment the first time I did the rack end bushing, but thats only because I didnt have to as I used an amazing pick to remove the piece without unbolting the rack

I know what an inner tie rod is, I just figured an oem part would last longer than 6-7k miles. Thought it may be something else, car drives fine no clunks or pulls

 

im not understanding your first point, because the pinion adjustment has nothing to do with how you removed the bushing. what you say makes no sense.

you still have to adjust the pinion.

 

Why would I need to adjust the rack. I removed the stock inner tie rod, turned the wheel to full lock, picked out the rack end bushing, new inner tie rod.

 

because gears wear. (do you know what a pinion is?)

the pinion adjustment controls the play on the drivers side. the rack end bushing on the passenger side. its only those two things that keep the rack in line. replacing one side doesnt affect the other side. the leverage arm is longer to the rack end bushing so play at that end has a greater affect, but you still have to adjust the pinion for proper spec.

its in the helms. go look.
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...SH200/11-4.pdf

 

What brand inner tie rod is installed