d16y8 Turbo + Greddy Emanage = No Idle
I have a few questions about a car i'm having a hard time with. I am looking for someone to help me with answers, not to tell me that i should have gotten Hondata, lets just assume that all these parts, car included cost no more than $1000 and we are just trying to get her running with out spending more money.
We've just finished adding a Greddy Turbo kit to a D16y8.
Stock ignition, stock internals, stock ecu.
The car is an Acura 1.6 EL, Manual Transmission, Fidanza flywheel, Stage 2 clutch, full stereo, Tein Luxury Spec springs on Koni struts, race seats, short shifter, 3 inch cat back, high flow cat, racing rad, silicone hoses, electric fans and various cosmetic changes but nothing major has really been done at all.
The kit we bought did not come with the stock injectors provided by greddy so we choose to pick up some 450cc injectors and a emanage blue to replace the minibox that came with the kit from Trust's factory.
The injectors we used are blue tops and we using a 4th gen civic resistor box for impedance reasons. All charge pipes, oil lines, fuel connections, seals, exhaust, waste gates and blow off valves seem to be functioning perfectly. The wiring is all hooked up according to Greddy's instructions and we have been able to get the car to fire up and will run when the idle is adjusted by foot.
This car will not idle properly on it's own at all.
I've checked grounds, cleaned the TPS and IACV, gapped the plugs, cleaned the rotor and cap, adjusted the idle screw and advanced and retarded ignition timing. Nothing has been able to get a steady idle going.
The car is plated, insured and runs well enough to get it from A to B while relying on the starter to get you going when she dies at lights.
I've triple checked the ecu pin outs and the parts, could i be missing something on the d16y8 that i didn't have to do on a d16z6 (i had another turbo honda in the past, but it was obd1 an i'm worried i am missing something for OBD2 or that i don't know about). The injectors did soak the plugs early on in the testing at one point and i'm going to have them replaced this week just to rule that out as a possibility but it seems that if they can spark it at 1300 rpm they should be able to hold it at idle regardless of a little fuel getting on them.
I'm out of answers and i'm looking to the OG's for clues and ideas as to what could be wrong. I'm not a newb and I've actually custom turboed a d16z6 before with emanage but it fired up on first try with no hiccups and now that i've hit a hitch on this one i'm stumped.
Open to all constructive replies. NOT looking to be told to search or to read the manual, i have and it has not answered any questions for me and i'm looking for some guidance here.
Thanks in advance... MartinGouda
We've just finished adding a Greddy Turbo kit to a D16y8.
Stock ignition, stock internals, stock ecu.
The car is an Acura 1.6 EL, Manual Transmission, Fidanza flywheel, Stage 2 clutch, full stereo, Tein Luxury Spec springs on Koni struts, race seats, short shifter, 3 inch cat back, high flow cat, racing rad, silicone hoses, electric fans and various cosmetic changes but nothing major has really been done at all.
The kit we bought did not come with the stock injectors provided by greddy so we choose to pick up some 450cc injectors and a emanage blue to replace the minibox that came with the kit from Trust's factory.
The injectors we used are blue tops and we using a 4th gen civic resistor box for impedance reasons. All charge pipes, oil lines, fuel connections, seals, exhaust, waste gates and blow off valves seem to be functioning perfectly. The wiring is all hooked up according to Greddy's instructions and we have been able to get the car to fire up and will run when the idle is adjusted by foot.
This car will not idle properly on it's own at all.
I've checked grounds, cleaned the TPS and IACV, gapped the plugs, cleaned the rotor and cap, adjusted the idle screw and advanced and retarded ignition timing. Nothing has been able to get a steady idle going.
The car is plated, insured and runs well enough to get it from A to B while relying on the starter to get you going when she dies at lights.
I've triple checked the ecu pin outs and the parts, could i be missing something on the d16y8 that i didn't have to do on a d16z6 (i had another turbo honda in the past, but it was obd1 an i'm worried i am missing something for OBD2 or that i don't know about). The injectors did soak the plugs early on in the testing at one point and i'm going to have them replaced this week just to rule that out as a possibility but it seems that if they can spark it at 1300 rpm they should be able to hold it at idle regardless of a little fuel getting on them.
I'm out of answers and i'm looking to the OG's for clues and ideas as to what could be wrong. I'm not a newb and I've actually custom turboed a d16z6 before with emanage but it fired up on first try with no hiccups and now that i've hit a hitch on this one i'm stumped.
Open to all constructive replies. NOT looking to be told to search or to read the manual, i have and it has not answered any questions for me and i'm looking for some guidance here.
Thanks in advance... MartinGouda
Being where you are in miss, ON. Contact Yoshio at Japanese-Automotive. He knows both that system and Honda turbo pretty well. I was just there last week.
http://www.japanese-auto.com.
http://www.japanese-auto.com.
I'm out of answers and i'm looking to the OG's for clues and ideas as to what could be wrong. I'm not a newb and I've actually custom turboed a d16z6 before with emanage but it fired up on first try with no hiccups and now that i've hit a hitch on this one i'm stumped.
Open to all constructive replies. NOT looking to be told to search or to read the manual, i have and it has not answered any questions for me and i'm looking for some guidance here.
Thanks in advance... MartinGouda
Open to all constructive replies. NOT looking to be told to search or to read the manual, i have and it has not answered any questions for me and i'm looking for some guidance here.
Thanks in advance... MartinGouda
Cool, I already got the email from you and have responded... Good luck on the car and let me know if you have any questions
@The Shodan, Thanks for the recommendation, I actually knew Tony back in the day and went to him the same night as i wrote this post. Still i appreciate your recommendation and thank you for your reply.
@Tony thanks for the help brother,
Nice to know that us OG's can still stick together and get this kinda thing sorted out for the young bucks coming up in the game. It meant a lot that you remembered me and my cars from nearly a dozen years ago and made me feel Grrrrreat!
Now on to the progress here.....
So we got the car sorted out and street-able last night. I had been working the laptop while my "padawan" was working the snips and tape in the passenger side foot well and after taking his word for it i decided to dive into the cables myself last night. I should have done this from the beginning but i'm less flexible in my old age and doing wiring behind dashes is less fun now.
After everything we found a hint that lead us to the issue by reading up about the Emanage system on a Pulsar GTI-R forum. As much as some honda guys hate on nissan owners, you gotta admit they know their stuff. I'm coming back online to explain how just in case anyone else with E-Manage runs into a problem like this like my friend did here.
We couldn't find what was wrong with the injectors. They were dumping fuel all over the place and the lack of control made no sense. I was suspicious that the injector cables were meant to be split rather than just connected to the injector wires from the emanage. I believe my misconception was due to installing E-Manage Ultimate on an S2000 right around the same time as i had done my DelSol in the past and the two have different wiring schematics. This crossed memory of mine had me focused on the injector wiring asking the cars owner to read back the harness locations from the ecu, the wiring colors provided by honda and trust, and the position on the e-manage at least a handful of times. I was convinced that to reduce the pulse width of an injector the emanage would have to be able to limit the amount of time a positive electrical signal was sent along that wire and unless it was broken and fed the emanage an input and allowed it to send an output that it didn't make sense that it would be able to "steal electricity" from that strand..... i was right, but misguided.
the emanage had thrown no error codes lights, so between this i ASSUMED that things were hooked up right, We did get a check engine for misfires on all cylinders but that was kinda to be expected based on how it was running. I started googling emanage fuel control and a link to a Pulsar owner's post set me straight. The issue ended up being that the wires from the ECU to the Emanage that controlled the in and out of MAP sensor info were reversed and that the IN was heading to the car and out to the ECU. In all my determination to learn how the injectors were controlled.
it turns out that the injector connections are not what controls the fuel changes on a root level. What does drop the duration of open time per rotation is simply a recalculation of air flow. by reducing the amount of air the ecu thinks it's seeing the injector pulse width is multiplied by a fraction to drop the amount of time that the injectors are opened according to the new injector size. This reduces the amount of fuel the car believes it needs and has it drop the math to suit the needs. The injector wires in the custom harnesses provided by emanage then allow the system to maintain the positive signal being sent to the injectors for as long as you specify in your fuel maps by adding additional power to the line after the ecu has stopped telling the injector to remain open.
After reading this info i felt refreshed and instead of rechecking the injector wires i focused on the Map wires and found that they were reversed and immediately cheered up about the car.
i learnt three things....
First, i learned a little more about how E-manage actually works and wouldn't make the same mistakes again as i would know that they are associated with the map sensor control more than the injector control
Second, i learned don't trust your friend to wire his own ecu connections!!! when in doubt don't read back codes and colors and positions, go touch each wire with your own hands and make sure everything is right your self.
Third, Tony the tiger is not only a modding king in these parts, known by all the serious tuners in the honda and toyota community, but he remembers people by name from over a decade ago and is willing to write long emails to try to help. That kind of personal touch is rare in these parts these days. It's nice to see that the scene i left a while ago is still being taken care of by guys like him. I suggest anyone in the GTA who needs help, dyno time or just direction should call him for assistance, He's solid and has my stamp of approval for sure.
@Tony thanks for the help brother,
Nice to know that us OG's can still stick together and get this kinda thing sorted out for the young bucks coming up in the game. It meant a lot that you remembered me and my cars from nearly a dozen years ago and made me feel Grrrrreat!
Now on to the progress here.....
So we got the car sorted out and street-able last night. I had been working the laptop while my "padawan" was working the snips and tape in the passenger side foot well and after taking his word for it i decided to dive into the cables myself last night. I should have done this from the beginning but i'm less flexible in my old age and doing wiring behind dashes is less fun now.
After everything we found a hint that lead us to the issue by reading up about the Emanage system on a Pulsar GTI-R forum. As much as some honda guys hate on nissan owners, you gotta admit they know their stuff. I'm coming back online to explain how just in case anyone else with E-Manage runs into a problem like this like my friend did here.
We couldn't find what was wrong with the injectors. They were dumping fuel all over the place and the lack of control made no sense. I was suspicious that the injector cables were meant to be split rather than just connected to the injector wires from the emanage. I believe my misconception was due to installing E-Manage Ultimate on an S2000 right around the same time as i had done my DelSol in the past and the two have different wiring schematics. This crossed memory of mine had me focused on the injector wiring asking the cars owner to read back the harness locations from the ecu, the wiring colors provided by honda and trust, and the position on the e-manage at least a handful of times. I was convinced that to reduce the pulse width of an injector the emanage would have to be able to limit the amount of time a positive electrical signal was sent along that wire and unless it was broken and fed the emanage an input and allowed it to send an output that it didn't make sense that it would be able to "steal electricity" from that strand..... i was right, but misguided.
the emanage had thrown no error codes lights, so between this i ASSUMED that things were hooked up right, We did get a check engine for misfires on all cylinders but that was kinda to be expected based on how it was running. I started googling emanage fuel control and a link to a Pulsar owner's post set me straight. The issue ended up being that the wires from the ECU to the Emanage that controlled the in and out of MAP sensor info were reversed and that the IN was heading to the car and out to the ECU. In all my determination to learn how the injectors were controlled.
it turns out that the injector connections are not what controls the fuel changes on a root level. What does drop the duration of open time per rotation is simply a recalculation of air flow. by reducing the amount of air the ecu thinks it's seeing the injector pulse width is multiplied by a fraction to drop the amount of time that the injectors are opened according to the new injector size. This reduces the amount of fuel the car believes it needs and has it drop the math to suit the needs. The injector wires in the custom harnesses provided by emanage then allow the system to maintain the positive signal being sent to the injectors for as long as you specify in your fuel maps by adding additional power to the line after the ecu has stopped telling the injector to remain open.
After reading this info i felt refreshed and instead of rechecking the injector wires i focused on the Map wires and found that they were reversed and immediately cheered up about the car.
i learnt three things....
First, i learned a little more about how E-manage actually works and wouldn't make the same mistakes again as i would know that they are associated with the map sensor control more than the injector control
Second, i learned don't trust your friend to wire his own ecu connections!!! when in doubt don't read back codes and colors and positions, go touch each wire with your own hands and make sure everything is right your self.
Third, Tony the tiger is not only a modding king in these parts, known by all the serious tuners in the honda and toyota community, but he remembers people by name from over a decade ago and is willing to write long emails to try to help. That kind of personal touch is rare in these parts these days. It's nice to see that the scene i left a while ago is still being taken care of by guys like him. I suggest anyone in the GTA who needs help, dyno time or just direction should call him for assistance, He's solid and has my stamp of approval for sure.
The last time I tuned a vehicle on E-manage Ultimate I could not get Win 7 or Vista to upload or DL to the box.
Had to find a Win XP laptop to DL and UL from E-manage box. Did they ever get that driver comparability issue straightened out?
Had to find a Win XP laptop to DL and UL from E-manage box. Did they ever get that driver comparability issue straightened out?
Last edited by 92cxyd; Oct 29, 2013 at 06:40 AM.
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