hey HT,

I am fairly new to HT; however, this is not my first Honda, but it is my first time back to the Honda scene. last time I owned a Honda was 15 years ago and the K series didn't exist. additionally, I must preface this build with that this is not my first turbo car/build either.

so in august I got a 93 civic si as payment for some parts I had lying around in the garage. I quickly realized that the car needed much more work than what I had expected. the original Z6 was swapped out for a Y5. after removing the head to examine the engine's condition I found that piston #4 rings landing had broken off. the head's cylinder chamber casting was pretty chewed up from the broken landing. luckily, the block seems salvageable with a good honing.

i'm guessing what led to this was that the previous owner ran the Y5 completely stock, including injectors and software, with a greddy turbo kit. the journal bearing in the turbo is pretty much seized.


I purchased a Y8 head, pistons, and con rods for relatively cheap. I plan on rebuilding the engine using OE Honda hardware with the exception of the conrod bolts, head studs, injectors and MLS gasket. the goal, once all is said and done, is a 300hp car that gets 30 MPG and costs me less than $5,000 in cash.

constructive criticism and feedback will be greatly appreciated.

pics to come soon.

 

A largely OE build with boost is going to have a fun time reliably getting 300HP, doable, but hard.

Alternately, do research on aftermarket gaskets involving Honda's, they're often not what they are cracked up to be.

 

Is the budget pertaining to just the motor? Or the entire car?

 

entire car.

things that I have lying around, like a GT2871R, are considered free.

so far I am up to 2K in rebuild parts, wheels, tires, BS goodies, etc.

 

some progress pics. I wish I had pics from day one.

 

extended shifter and gauges in:

 

You should fix that rust ASAP before it spreads into the wheel wells and under the taillights. My civic is like that and it's hell to fix. Good luck

 

Don't waste money on a D-series especially one in that shape. Get a b18b1 and boost it or a GSR if you have the money looks like a lot of work tho that rust won't go away easily.

 

ive been following your thread and getting pointers. I will address the rust issue and body work once I have the engine running and tuned.

thanks for the suggestion, but if I am swapping anything into this chassis its going to be an oversquared engine (b16a) which I have a 35R on ice for. swapping another undersqaured engine is pointless to me. just saying.

 

You should take your rear bumper cover off and take a look. Thanks for following my thread, if you can get your hands on a parts car with less rust in the rears you can use that car instead, or swap everything over. Lol.

If you're building a B16A make sure you get into the internals because if memory serves me right the JDM 1990 B16A out of the Si/SiR CRX had the highest compression ratio out of the entire B16A line up. And you should know that lower compression is safer for boosting to reduce the risk of detonation.

Remember, you could have the nicest most power engine in the world, but if you don't have a nice shell to put it in, it's useless..

 

ill take the bumper off soon and post pics.

here is a pic of some more goodies:

 

under the bumper isn't as bad as I figured it'd be:

 

You're a very lucky guy, I wish mine looked like that. Fix those quarters though, thats easy stuff I should be updating tonight, hopefully I have the passenger side done.

 

That's a mean chunk of rust there. Good luck with your rebuild though.

 

Just ordered some stainless steel brake lines and some hawk pads.

Hoping to get some work done this weekend. The cold weather is really rolling in.

 

bought new rotors and calipers to go with the new stainless line and hawk pads. I haven't installed any of them, but I did get around to painting the calipers and carriers/brackets.

 

anyone ever swap PG6 rods with P29 pistons into a Y5 block with a Y8 head?

I expect to have high 12:XX CR according to my calcs which is spot on for e85 use.

PG6 rods look more robust than the 8Y and cost around 100 bucks for a new set

 

Are you planning on boosting with that compression ratio?

 

Yes.

I plan on running off of the WG pressure, 7psi.

 

I hope you realize your motor isn't going to last long, if at all. Even the best tune in the world on the highest octane in existence won't stop the toothpicks Honda calls pistons from bending.

 

All you'll need is lower comp. pistons 9.0.1-9.8.1 I think those are the most common compression ratios used, you should do more research. And some larger connecting rods, while you're down there change your main bearings just in case. After you do that, your block can withstand pretty large numbers. High compression + boost = detonation. Anyone on the FI forum would tell you that.

 

And anyone who tells you that doesn't know what they're talking about. The reason low-to-standard compression is used with boost is because, with a turbo, you can easily max out the capability of the sleeves while using forged internals. I've assembled more than one motor on 11+:1 CR with boost on upgraded sleeves, and they had no problems. It's all about building your internals to handle what you're going to throw at them.

CR isn't OP's problem, needle-thin rods are.

 

This looks like a mess. Good luck

 

What is the max capability of OP's sleeves?
Is it cost-effective to upgrade OP's sleeves within his budget?

I was talking in reference to his budget. I'm sure if everyone had/wanted to spend extra coin they would upgrade to something like a Darton sleeved block or what have you. I apologise for the miscommunication of the CR, it's just typical to lower CR when boosting. My bad.

 

With all the money spent, i would have done the body first, that is what everyone see's, plus it gets worse, FAST!