Hey guys, been searching but there's endless combinations which yields a lot of he said she said.

Just need a little tech insight.

I have an LS Block (B18B1) and a 99 CTR Head with GSR cams. (dual springs on both I and E side).

I took the motor apart to put ARP rod bolts on the rods and have them shotpeened, reconditioned etc. I'm also going to use P30 pistons, Obviously I'm going to want to oversize, how do I know how much more oversize to go? I've never been this in depth with a motor build and I would like to bore it out a little more.

Just wanting to get my feet a little wet and try to learn a couple things.

This is what I plan on doing- P30 Pistons LS RODS (Arp Rod Bolts, ACL Bearings, Shotpeened, balanced, reconditioned etc.) I don't know what exactly that all entails but my machine shop will take care of it all I'd imagine. (still want to learn)

As for the crank what options do I have? (I will search, but would like opinions.)

According to Zeal compression calculator I should be around 12:1 CR.
I do plan on having the car dyno tuned on Chrome and eventually might go with Hondata.

Money isn't really a big issue, I'm willing to spend the money for reliability.

I know when choosing cams I need to check for clearances so my pistons and valves don't have sex I was just wondering would I be good with stock CTR valvetrain and ITR Cams? I'm going to read a little more but this is going to be my daily driver. Was also thinking of port and polish, valve job, etc

You can check out my build thread in my sig. It's going in a 2000 Ek hatch.

I will put my flame suite on BUT, I have been searching everyday and browsing forums everyday writing things down trying to learn what I can.

Thanks for all the help in advanced.


Some Pictures for reference.





In a box waiting for my ACL bearing and for me to decide on what size pistons once my bore is measured.

 

as far as overbore, ask the machine shop youre using, how far they recommend going. if the block is in good shape and theres not scoring in the cylinders, then they may be able to just rehone it and youll be good. if there are other problems, that require bore to fix, then theyll have to bore it.

using the ls rods w/p30's youre going to be using the ls crank.

 

The biggest oversize P30 piston you will be able to find is 81.25mm bore. And they are a bit pricy IMO.
Yes that valvetrain will work fine

 

Ok cool, Should I throw a girdle on? Z10 kit?
I've read mixed opinions about them.


Would you recommend going with an after market piston like say Nippon, RS Machine, YCP?

I just did a quick search and I see a lot of P30 and PR3 Pistons advertised. I see the PR3 Dome is 6.01cc and the P30 are 6.93.

I want to make sure I get the right pistons lol

 

Ive never used one on any of my LSV/B20V's. There are plenty of people who like them, and plenty of people who think theyre a waste. Do you have a tuner? If you do, ask him/her what they think about girdles on LS blocks.

I have used RS machine pistons in two of my B20V's, worked great, made good power.

 

I ran the PR3 RS maching pistons in my old setup and loved them. No complaints. MANY of the vendors SAY they are selling you a P30 pistons, but if you look at the casting number it will say PR3. I have NEVER seen a P30 in 81.5mm bore or larger. I like flatter domes personally anyways, better flame travel and more efficient burn.

 

I'd have to agree on the flatter dome, if you can get compression elsewhere.

 

pr3 piston here. no complaints. stock rod bolts tho. made good power and is very drivable.

 

I am looking into doing the same.

 

im using the rs machines pr3 with itr cams in my lsvtec. i am about to hit 10k miles on the motor which i daily drive. the build is simple and straight forward. i have to say however that i had to pull a pretty large amount of ignition timing on the low cam map at any moderate amount of load. if i had to do it again i would use the rs machine itr replica piston or use cams with slightly larger primaries to bleed out some compression. not that it cant work, but thats just my take. im sure i will immediately be contradicted.

oh yea, dont waste the time or money on a port/polish job or a gridle

 

I agree to diagree on both sides...if that makes sense haha.
If you're ONLY plan is to run OEM parts and never upgrade cams, intalke, TB, etc. IMO running over 11:1 CR is a waste. You won't gain much by having that compression unless you have the supporting mods for it. Run lower CR and advance the hell out of the timing. NOW IF you plan on upgrading in the future build for it and like blackeg had to do, sacrafice some timing and tuning until it can be put to use.
Better to have and not need than to need and not have. Just my .02 cents.

 

I think a block girdle is a great idea since it does have the not so awesome rod/stroke ratio of the ls crank. Helps keep the crank from vibrating at higher rpm's and I'm sure the motor will see higher rpm than what the stock ls is used to. I would stay away from doing anything to the crank, really you could spend that cash on maybe some nice aftermarket cams. Making good street power and being reliable will not be cheap if you don't educate yourself. Seems like your on the right track though, sorry if this sounds bashful in any way. Be interested to see where this goes