1988 Honda CRX hf swap b18b1 94-95 ls ecu P75-A01 running ecu jumper obd0-obd1 conversion. repin distributor to obd1 ls distributor converted 1 wire O2 to 4 wire O2. P75 ls intake manifold running single purge control valve for the 94 ls.

Befor everything when i was running all stock hf it was running great no CL no nothing. Then did the 94 ls swap running obd0 intake mani an distributor an obd0 pr4 ecu. I was getting CL code 43 for Fuel Supply System. I ran sum sea foam an tat didnt work so i swaped out injector an fuel filter the code went away car was running ok so i seafoam it agian. It ran great but i need to reff it so i have to switch everything over to obd1 running everything above wen i get everything in i was getting codes 3, 4, an 6 i fixed code 6 an 3 right away because i had extras good ones but i couldnt figure code 4 it was for CKP crank posistion sensor the car was not turning over completly so i check my distributor wiring repined it an repined it an repined it till it got turned over an the motor was alive but the code 4 was still there so an it was bogging out at 3000 rpm an wont go past that so i went to go buy a brand new dustributor figuring i burnt the old one. got the new distributor in but forgot how the pins went so took a couple trys an it work great. the car an swap every thing was running great fir one day then Problem.....

Problem: Wen cold start up rpm is at 1,500-2000 rpm but goes down wen it gets warm about 2-8min of driving. Theres a lack of power wen u floor it on low rpm from 2000-3800 then around 4000 theres the power. If u driver normal an eaze into the rpm 2000-3500 theres a sputter/ jolts/ bogs. It sumtimes back fires when you floor it an let go an floor it agian then let go an it back fires, or wen ur at high rpm an u let go of gas it back fires.

Things I have done an changed:
double checked tripple checked my ecu jumper double checked tripple checked my distributor repin connection. Double check tripple check all my wirings its all solder an heat shrink good conections. All my wirings are correct to MY Knowlege an research. double checked tripple checked my timming its dead on at 0 degree an at the 16 degree. ive changed to new distributor cap rotor and a new distributor thinking the other new one is burnt. changed new spark plugs and wires. changed injectors another new fuel filter, fuel pump new fuel pump strainer. STILL the same PROBLEM.

 

I thought the A in the ECU meant automatic a lot of the time. I'm not ECU expert, just throwing some ideas your way.

Anyways, I want to say you have messed up the distributor wiring. If you are just winging it, that can cause some damage. Have you set the timing on your motor? Maybe the distributor is 180 degrees off and your timing might be a couple degrees off between the pulley and the distributor.

Is it still throwing the code 4? I know you said you fixed everything, but there has to be something. Take a couple days off of the project and then come back to it.

 

BUMP...i really need help...no CL no codes still doing the same an i think its getting worst...u can smell gass while idling an wen u drive so i know im running rich tried almost everything what can i be...im stumpped im about to take it to a shop...dont want to waste no more money...anyone help

 

Are you threatening my internet diagnosis skills with a qualified mechanic?!

Honestly, going to get back on topic.

Start your car and one by one remove a spark plug wire. Remove the wire from cylinder 1, listen for a drop in idle. If it drops, put the wire back in. If not, you have an issue with that cylinder. Move to the next one. If you are running very rich you may have a cylinder that isn't igniting.

 

im not questioning ur skill level or anything...ive done all ur basic diagnost everything checks out..gudd...getting spark in all chamber compression test is 180 all four leak down test is at less then 13%...its still doing everything but now its getting worst wen i floor it. it bogs an sputter for about 5-10 second then it picks up it does it really bad at 3000-3500 rpm...BUMP...

 

Same kind of symptoms and mine was the exhaust cam timing. No power to 3000 about then it would take off.

 

Are the wires for your TPS good too?

By the way, I was joking. It's very hard to give advice about a car I've never even seen.

 

just throwing something out there you might check.

your tps sensor should be throwing out about .45v with 0% throttle and .6v at WOT.
might double check that. if it isn't giving those voltages especially at 0% throttle you are going to have to adjust it similarly to how you adjust the timing on your distributor cap. i dont think that is the only issue but i think you may have a couple problems and there compounding symptoms are throwing you off.

hope it helps