I got a b16a2 garrett turbo kit not very big turbo in my 93 del sol. i went to the tuner to break in my car and is was running at 220F, the tuner says i should get a dual core raditor to bring down the temp below 200 what u guys think?

 

I think you need you to ensure you worked out all the bubbles and use an oem thermostat

 

You can have a dual core in a half size, very easily. Get good coolant, bleed the system well, and have the right fans, and you'll be fine.

 

If the motor is stock it shouldn't require a larger radiator than an oem dual core. Be sure all the air is out of the system. If you've removed ac block off the space on the driver side so the air flows to be radiator. What fan are you running? Wg have a dump tube on it? What manifold? Any heat wrap?

 

Very true....

 

I think you should install a divider on the side of the radiator, or block off the area where the ac condenser used to be. and get a good slim fan with high airflow ratings.

if after that you still have issues with temp, then get a thicker radiator.

majority of setups are perfectly fine with stock radiators unless you're racing at low speeds for long periods of time. the main reason most people run too hot is because they do things that either reduce airflow over the radiator, or the do other things that channel the air incorrectly causing it to either go around the radiator, or simply recirculate from the back of the radiator right back to the front of the radiator again seeing very little actual fresh cold air.

 

This was a good post for me personally. With a half radiator, what would you block off the other half with? Just a piece of metal? Does it need to be sloped towards the radiator to channel the air or is just blocking off the empty space good enough? With a front mount intercooler, does that pose any issues to the radiator? I know mine sits pretty much right in front of the OEM radiator.

Don't want to highjack the thread, just trying to get more info for both the OP and myself.

 

I got the down pipe right beside a single core 25$ rad, and use a 9$ low temp thermostat. I also don't even check the coolant temp if the needle moves its only from holding 5-6 grand down the highway.

Your cooler must totally block the rad or something lol

 

You just need to block off the open space with a piece of sheet metal or keep the weight down and use sheet aluminum. Air will always take the path of least resistance. If you out up a wall it will flow through the radiator. Sloping it toward the rad would probably help but how much idk. It's minimal if anything at all. The fmic will hinder airflow but it should still run normal temps. How close to the radiator is the fmic? There needs to be an air gap of a couple inches I think it's 2.5-3". Mine is about 3".

 

i had severe issues with my tucked radiator setup.... ended up using a air lift pressure system and within 5 minutes i had the air pocket out and new fluid in.

 

This is what I did last summer.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...3&postcount=25

 

That could be the root cause. At the very least, purchase a quality radiator. Optional, but recommended, upgrades would be a fan shroud and Spal fan.

 

I went to my shop and they ordered me a generic dual core honda replacement with a new aftermarket fan, hopefully this does the job, i wanna do the valve cover breather hoses to a catch can too, anybody have that done. I found a whole kit for $300, a litllr expensive i think, what did u guys do?

 

What power level are you making?

 

I went to my shop and they ordered me a generic dual core honda replacement with a new aftermarket fan, hopefully this does the job, i wanna do the valve cover breather hoses to a catch can too, anybody have that done. I found a whole kit for $300, a litllr expensive i think, what did u guys do?

 

Only 275whp

 

For that power level you can run something simpler, and cheaper.


Put a vented catch can between the valve cover breather and PCV.

 

do u have one? where did you get yours?

 

I'm making upwards 440whp. I have two ports coming from the valve cover and two ports coming from the back of the block into a 2qt vented catch can located in the stock battery tray.

I had SpeedFactory make my can.

 

That's exactly what I am doing.

Also, thanks. I'll grab a swap piece of aluminum and block off the section next to the rad.

3 inches between rad and FMIC, good to know.

OP, the catch can is easy to make yourself or buy one. I made mine in a couple minutes. Definitely make the air block so your radiator is getting enough air.

 

i got a generic dual core radiator, 170 t stat, 170 high flow fan, gsr wp on my turbo lsvtec 266whp. aftermarket temp gauge for accurate quick moving temps and i never saw my temps go higher than 190 with about 6 hot laps

i think just a 100% efficient cooling system will work