Hey all,

My original motor in my 97 HX has 246000 miles on it, and it's getting pretty tired. Not to mention the insane amount of oil it's been leaking over the past 30,000 or so miles. Since it would cost way too much to have a mechanic inspect and replace all of the gaskets on the entire engine I just went ahead and bought a JDM D16Y5 to replace it with under 60,000 miles.

Here's my question - what needs to be done to the D16Y5 to make it so that it'll past CA smog regulations? Are there any differences between the D16Y5 that we get here in America versus the ones that they get over in Japan? I've been trying to look around and find answers, but haven't been able to find any specific information about the Y5 (There's plenty of stuff online about the Y7s and Y8s though).

Thanks!

 

Bump, I'd like to be able to install this motor come Thursday without having a CEL and having to troubleshoot it.

 

Okay, so the motor is here now - I don't think the Y5 was made in Japan, only in EDM.

So, that being said, does anyone know if any parts need to be swapped between my USDM Y5 and the EDM Y5?

 

Okay, since I didn't get any hits I guess I'll provide some info in case anyone is ever looking for this specific engine swap.

The JDM and USDM engines have completely different intake and exhaust manifolds. So those are going to need to be swapped. Seems like the JDM engine doesn't have the same emission control devices that their US counterparts have.

I don't know about the crank sensor and whether or not there is one on the JDM engine yet, but I will update as the swap gets further along. It's not easy to do by myself with as busy of a schedule as I have. :/

In the mean time, have a nasty picture of what the old engine looks like under the distributor. This is why it's coming out.

 

You're removing it because of a dizzy O ring leak? ...Am I missing something here?

 

It's not the distributor o-ring that's leaking. Something else is. I replaced the entire distributor trying to solve this leak and that still didn't fix it. That on top of it having 250k, and having recently developed a slight coolant leak is the reason it's coming out.

There's more oil on the other side of the engine too, this thing just leaks like a sieve.

 

Hopefully a question someone can answer for me!

The JDM Vtec solenoid is missing a plug that the USDM solenoid has... I'm sure it's important and I will be swapping the solenoids, but what does this plug do?

 

It's the oil pressure switch. JDM motors don't use it, USDM do.

 

Cool! Thanks.

Also, since I know I've always had issues pulling engines, I wanted to suggest getting item 67441 from Harbor frieght. Just put a 10x1.25M (The shop manual says it's a 8x1.25, but it lies) bolt into the back of the head and put an eye-bolt on the tranny bracket and the engine came right out. Easiest pull ever because I could tilt the engine left and right.

 

I have a D16Y7 block mated with a D16Y5 Head. Not sure if the head is oem. it has casting marks on the side like yours but mine says J/5 next to the dizzy. and two jap. symbols then P2J-5 and 97 on the right. I pulled the valve cover off and it has 5 casting in several places and on the top of the lost motion holder it says EX on the #1 cylinder side and YSK circled and 1B near the #3 cylinder. I think its either euro/JDM. I've been doing all types of research on it and No one seems to know anything about it.

 

It's odd - there's a ton of information about performance parts and getting more power out of these engines, but as soon as you're trying to find out more info about them no one knows.

I'm sure there are some experts out there that could help you, but they've long since left these boards.

Is there anything I can help you with since I've got the USDM engine out now?

Also, as an update: I got the JDM engine in, swapped around all the necessary components, and it passed CA smog just barely (High HC, probably from an old cat) last week. Engine runs great though, and turning on the AC doesn't almost kill the engine anymore.

 

Performance and HX engine don't go together. The Y5 was made for mileage not performance. Now you can swap out the entire valve train and put a Y8 valve train in it as the heads are near identical, but the Y8 is a not a performance engine either.

98 EX D16Y8 Auto although I guess if it says 97 it could have been a late model? Take a pic of the valve train and post it. The Y5 has roller rockers but like I said they could have been swapped.

 

All I've read on the y5 is that it does well when boosting it. Also I've never seen a d16y5 in another other form other than the USDM. So you might have been duped into thinking it was UKDM/EDM. JDM and UKDM probably have the d15b 3 stage vtec, which is a combination of both vtec-e and vtec.

 

I Think it might be a stage 3 v-tech, but it only has the one actuator/solenoid. I think they just Frankenstein-ed it together to sell it, because the title is a salvage-repair. The aftermarket headlights wiring is a rat's nest and the harness also. Also the wires coming from the dizzy has one cut, it's solid orange, so the connector has a place for that wire and now there's only 5 wires connected; as apposed to having six wires. Going to go take better pics of the valve train today. I'm sure you all know about v-tech, but here's a page that explains the 4 different types of v-tech. http://asia.vtec.net/Engines/vtecimpl/vtec1.html

 

Can't really make that assumption because OP has not post any pics of the engine block code, head code or nothing.

 

I know there's info on these engines, but every time I search it only searches within the USDM. I've found a couple of pages in japan, Malaysia, EDM, and south America. I had to translate them one said it was used in a Honda civic VTI? I think in the JDM/EDM market, and then I've seen some that it was used in a del sol. The problem is that when I search the engine code for it (12100-P2J-500) in the USDM part sites it doesn't come up with any results. I also tried to decode the symbols and some of them all look the same, but I think the Two symbols are 121 and the other three squares are zeros. It's either made in japan or china, there symbols look similar. I bought it originally form an Asian college student.

My real issue is that I screwed up the timing like a noob by trying to tighten the crank pulley bolt w/o putting a flathead in the flywheel after I was finishing putting the filter on during an oil change. It drove fine the rest of the night, but the next morning I went to start her up and that's when it happened, not to mention this was Christmas morning, I heard rattling coming from the crank pulley and my Alt. light came on. Took a look and the pulley was just loose and wobbling, while the bolt was spinning. Was able to drive to the family's for Christmas on the battery, I know I shouldn't have, but I was running late and had to pick up my nephew. So driving home I made it to my parking lot and the battery died and I was able to drift right into my spot. So I attempted to get the pulley bolt out, I used the jackstand to hold the breaker bar inline with the bolt and hold the pressure, then I took a 4' piece of fence pipe for more leverage, Slowly got it out about halfway and the bolt snapped. So now I'm dealing with trying to get the bolt out. Tap and Died it yesterday put a 3/8" bolt with some epoxy on it and threaded it in to the broken piece which is only about has 1/4"-1/2" left. Then sprayed a little PB blaster. About to see if will come out today if not I'll have to drill it out and then Tap & Die it with the original bolt size, which I think is the same Diameter and thread as a spark plug, I put them together and the threads lined up and I think it's an M-14x1.25 bolt. Gotta get outside now before it gets too dark. I'll let you all know what happened and take more picks of the valve train. TTYL.......

 

My bad, I was talking about my head.

 

here's the casting marks.

[IMG]https://honda-tech.com/picture.php?albumid=40598&pictureid=96639
[/IMG]

Left casting marks.

Middle of Head

Right side of head

Left side of head next to the dizzy

 

take pics of your valve train and post them

 

Here's some pics of the valve train, pressure regulator?, distributor with orange wire cut?