Adios Sunroofs!!!!
Did two in one day. A 1st gen and a 2nd gen. Have to wait a day or two for the silicone sealant to fully dry before I can really clean up the edges.


[Modified by Steve91, 4:57 PM 10/26/2002]


[Modified by Steve91, 4:57 PM 10/26/2002]
Not meant to be a mod for a daily driver. Both cars are only used on the track. Saves a good bit of weight. On the 2nd gen, the assembly weighs 25lbs, all at the highest point of the car. The 1st gen assembly is even heavier.
Jody you are HARD core man. 
I'm guessing it was done to meet rule requirements.
*edit* Guess I was wrong. And he beat me to it.
[Modified by mobrep, 7:56 PM 10/26/2002]

I'm guessing it was done to meet rule requirements.
*edit* Guess I was wrong. And he beat me to it.
[Modified by mobrep, 7:56 PM 10/26/2002]
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Details! What gauge did you use for the gen 2? The book says "same material as the rest of the sheet metal" but I'm not sure what gauge will meet that requirement. Also, what size rivets did you use (length too). Nice job, BTW.
I'm not sure what gauge the factory metal is, but this is .036" (Don't know the gauge). It looks thicker than the factory metal. Rivets are 1/8" steel, 1/2" shank. I would probably go to the next longer shank on some spots if I did it again. These worked just fine, but there are multiple layers of metal in certain areas where the longer rivet might have been better.
I takes ALOT of rivets to do it right. I did them every 2" and thats over 50 rivets per roof. It wouldn't hurt to go every 1.5" but its not necessary. Plus my f'in forearms were starting to look like Popeye after doing 100 plus rivets.
[Modified by Steve91, 6:52 PM 10/26/2002]
I takes ALOT of rivets to do it right. I did them every 2" and thats over 50 rivets per roof. It wouldn't hurt to go every 1.5" but its not necessary. Plus my f'in forearms were starting to look like Popeye after doing 100 plus rivets.
[Modified by Steve91, 6:52 PM 10/26/2002]
Question:
Is it actually over the edge of the roof, or is it flush with the edges of the roof? Hard to tell from the pics - but it does look like a nice job.
Also, you do need to drill every hole for the rivet to go into right? And is a rivet gun driven by a compressor, or is it manual?
Alex
[Modified by Quik89Si, 11:22 PM 10/26/2002]
Is it actually over the edge of the roof, or is it flush with the edges of the roof? Hard to tell from the pics - but it does look like a nice job.
Also, you do need to drill every hole for the rivet to go into right? And is a rivet gun driven by a compressor, or is it manual?
Alex
[Modified by Quik89Si, 11:22 PM 10/26/2002]
Question:
Is it actually over the edge of the roof, or is it flush with the edges of the roof? Hard to tell from the pics - but it does look like a nice job.
Also, you do need to drill every hole for the rivet to go into right? And is a rivet gun driven by a compressor, or is it manual?
Alex
[Modified by Quik89Si, 11:22 PM 10/26/2002]
Is it actually over the edge of the roof, or is it flush with the edges of the roof? Hard to tell from the pics - but it does look like a nice job.
Also, you do need to drill every hole for the rivet to go into right? And is a rivet gun driven by a compressor, or is it manual?
Alex
[Modified by Quik89Si, 11:22 PM 10/26/2002]
There are both compressor driven riveters and manual ones. The manual ones (like mine) are a pain in the butt, because it requires a huge amount of strength to pull the mandrel through...grr...well, that's only for steel rivets, but the AL ones are weak.
that looks really good and by no means beyond streetable to my group of friends, we all have lexxan window on our hatches, gutted minus all the seats, half of us don't even have speedometers, just a nice 5" center mounted tack and maybe a air fuel, and a oil pressure, the occasional water temp. my friend brandon has a 91 si hatch w/ built b20 on the bottle and he really needs to lose about 200 lbs out of his car. we were going to fiberglass it but i'm thinking this looks pretty good too.
The replacement panel does overhang the original opening. 3/4" in the front and back, 9/16" on each side.
The riveting is time consuming. There are over 50 rivets per panel and they are steel. These were all done with a manual riveter. Its not that much of a bitch if you have two people doing it. One guy drills, one guy rivets and you switch off when tired.
I would recommend this over a fiberglass panel any day. Riveting into fiberglass is really tricky. Very easy to crack the glass.
Those of you interested in buying my stock sunroof, email me and I will send you pictures of it.
The riveting is time consuming. There are over 50 rivets per panel and they are steel. These were all done with a manual riveter. Its not that much of a bitch if you have two people doing it. One guy drills, one guy rivets and you switch off when tired.
I would recommend this over a fiberglass panel any day. Riveting into fiberglass is really tricky. Very easy to crack the glass.
Those of you interested in buying my stock sunroof, email me and I will send you pictures of it.
look sgood dude!
since i have a lot of welding to do this winter i am going to try and replace the entire roof skin with a HF skin.
i better learn how to weld fast! ..or make friends with someone who can weld.
since i have a lot of welding to do this winter i am going to try and replace the entire roof skin with a HF skin.
i better learn how to weld fast! ..or make friends with someone who can weld.

I can't imagine doing that with a manual riveter. We went out and bought an air riveter...and have gotten plenty of use.
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0223.JPG
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0225.JPG
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0227.JPG
I went with lexan, but I have a completely different set of rules.
Using a manual riveter. I dunno. that IS hardcore. We used rivets for everything though.
The headlight covers: http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0255.JPG
the windows: http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0194.JPG
Windshield and brace: http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0207.JPG
Even the door skins: http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0253.JPG
props to you.
And if anyone is interested, I could measure the thickness of the sheet metal.
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0223.JPG
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0225.JPG
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0227.JPG
I went with lexan, but I have a completely different set of rules.
Using a manual riveter. I dunno. that IS hardcore. We used rivets for everything though.
The headlight covers: http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0255.JPG
the windows: http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0194.JPG
Windshield and brace: http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0207.JPG
Even the door skins: http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...k/DSCF0253.JPG
props to you.
And if anyone is interested, I could measure the thickness of the sheet metal.
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