i got my a/c serviced and tested everything came back fine, supposedly the electrical system is fine i was told by the firestone auto repair , my compressor is fine....but i turn it on and lets say at a red light the idle drops from 1000 to 500 if not less, if i feather the gas the idle will not move the car will idle like **** un drive-able, hard to catch shifts .

i dont know what to do? what should i start replacing the air blows cold
its a swap so im not sure where to start it has a crv compressor a sohc condenser

 

im almost positive its my compressor or maybe a electrical issue but sometimes if i turn the a/c on and off the compressor will hiss and the idle will fall to 0 the car almost stalls

 

BUMP!

 

bump

 

By hiss do you mean you hear the belt squeal or screech?

 

no belt not screech or belt this is a noise from the compressor or condenser im not sure bro im in the car when this happens im baffled i got it professionally done at a shop it blows cold air but the drain on the engine is not normal!

 

Let me guess... the idle only drops to 500 or below while the car is idling in drive gear (I.e. stopped at a stop light with the brake pedal depressed). If so, myself, as well as some others here have been having similar issues. My a/c system is in perfect working order... not overcharged, not undercharged, blowing nice and cold. I'm starting to suspect faulty ECU drivers for controlling the a/c idle adjustment signal, but that's my own suspicion...

 

let me start by saying when i took the car to "firestone autorepair" i was expecting to figure out my problem nope they said everything is fine from the compressor to the electrical.... car blows cold air but its not normal for the idle to be dropping so f-n low at times ...yea the car shakes fire stone mentioned it could be my motor mounts because they are solid but im not complaining about the vibrations im annoyed that my idle is being affected by my a/c....i drive my buddys em2 2005 with the a/c like a charm no idle dropping everytime the compresssor kicks on ,,,,,,

 

i went back to fire stone i complained and said my a/c unit might have been over charged because of the symptoms they said ok they will take an ounce out from 1.3 to 1.2 idk i asked him to check the pressure he said ok all he said was he was going to take out an ounce took about 30 minutes it seems to help but who knows ill wait tell a hot day

 

Whats your timing set at? I did a B18B swap and had no power at all with a/c on. Idle would drop and had to rev up high to get the car moving. Found my timing was off and set it right, now I can barely feel when the compressor is engaged.

 

drove today with a/c on and i noticed a huge difference but i feel it could be better im going back tomorrow to take another ounce out and see where i am from there ....

my timing is on point .its when the compressor kicks on i feel it i dont want to feel it or notice the idle drop

 

buzzed bump

 

did some researchh my a/c should be at 1.0 of freon or w/e right now its at 1.2 im going to have them put it at 1.0

 

My ac wouldnt b blowing cold air if it was over charged im thinking mycompressor is bad or electric issue

 

You're never going to know if you have proper charge of a/c refrigerant if you don't use a set of manifold gauges to properly measure both the high and low side pressure while it's running. You said your car has "1.2 of freon" in it right now? 1.2 what? pounds? ounces? your system should contain a grand total of 7-1/3 oz. of oil (4 oz. of which should be contained in the compressor) and around ~22 oz. of R134a refrigerant.

 

today i went back. complained it was still over charged. they said ok they dont care about refilling over removing ,they are trying to help im just confused why they dont know it was over charged the first time? because since they have removed 4 ounces it feels way better but still at parking speeds the idle is un-bearable the idle will drop to 100-200

as of right now it has 1lb of freon 16oz he said

 

bump1!

 

Sounds like you should remove the throttle body and clean it real good. Get a new t-body gasket (or 2) and also TPS gasket. Also, remove the TPS break-away (tamper-proof) screws so you can replace that gasket and also calibrate the TPS. Those screws are M5 size. I prefer aluminum Allen head type, but you can find them in Hex type steel, too.

When you go to reassemble, first adjust your throttle stop screw to stop the plate right at the edge before closing the butterfly entirely. Use a feeler gauge and maybe look up the specs. After you clean, tune, and install the t-body, adjust the TPS. You need to have it installed and the ignition on to calibrate the TPS. Get a volt meter and Google how-to Honda TPS or something. Adjusting the TPS is like adjusting the distributor timing. Nudge, check, tighten, nudge, check, tighten, repeat.

 

the idle is only affected when a/c is turned on bro i would think it would be all the time if it was my IACV or TPS

 

So I guess you have it fixed already then, bro.

And also, when the AC kicks on, the ECU also kicks the idle speed up a notch. I think it uses the IACV to do so.

 

Stop speculating and do it. Your asking for help and refusing suggestions. Cleaning the iacv can only help so why not?

 

Did they put in 100% pure r134a, or did it contain PAG or stop leak?

 

it contained all that leak dye, they put ice in aswell

 

im going back to a different fire stone tomorrow get a 2nd opinion