Help a/c problems b20 swap
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Help a/c problems b20 swap
i got my a/c serviced and tested everything came back fine, supposedly the electrical system is fine i was told by the firestone auto repair , my compressor is fine....but i turn it on and lets say at a red light the idle drops from 1000 to 500 if not less, if i feather the gas the idle will not move the car will idle like **** un drive-able, hard to catch shifts .
i dont know what to do? what should i start replacing the air blows cold
its a swap so im not sure where to start it has a crv compressor a sohc condenser
i dont know what to do? what should i start replacing the air blows cold
its a swap so im not sure where to start it has a crv compressor a sohc condenser
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
im almost positive its my compressor or maybe a electrical issue but sometimes if i turn the a/c on and off the compressor will hiss and the idle will fall to 0 the car almost stalls
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
no belt not screech or belt this is a noise from the compressor or condenser im not sure bro im in the car when this happens im baffled i got it professionally done at a shop it blows cold air but the drain on the engine is not normal!
#7
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Let me guess... the idle only drops to 500 or below while the car is idling in drive gear (I.e. stopped at a stop light with the brake pedal depressed). If so, myself, as well as some others here have been having similar issues. My a/c system is in perfect working order... not overcharged, not undercharged, blowing nice and cold. I'm starting to suspect faulty ECU drivers for controlling the a/c idle adjustment signal, but that's my own suspicion...
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
Let me guess... the idle only drops to 500 or below while the car is idling in drive gear (I.e. stopped at a stop light with the brake pedal depressed). If so, myself, as well as some others here have been having similar issues. My a/c system is in perfect working order... not overcharged, not undercharged, blowing nice and cold. I'm starting to suspect faulty ECU drivers for controlling the a/c idle adjustment signal, but that's my own suspicion...
Last edited by b20bFourDoorCivicLX; 10-05-2013 at 04:51 AM.
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
i went back to fire stone i complained and said my a/c unit might have been over charged because of the symptoms they said ok they will take an ounce out from 1.3 to 1.2 idk i asked him to check the pressure he said ok all he said was he was going to take out an ounce took about 30 minutes it seems to help but who knows ill wait tell a hot day
Last edited by b20bFourDoorCivicLX; 10-05-2013 at 11:51 AM.
#10
Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
Whats your timing set at? I did a B18B swap and had no power at all with a/c on. Idle would drop and had to rev up high to get the car moving. Found my timing was off and set it right, now I can barely feel when the compressor is engaged.
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
drove today with a/c on and i noticed a huge difference but i feel it could be better im going back tomorrow to take another ounce out and see where i am from there ....
my timing is on point .its when the compressor kicks on i feel it i dont want to feel it or notice the idle drop
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
did some researchh my a/c should be at 1.0 of freon or w/e right now its at 1.2 im going to have them put it at 1.0
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
My ac wouldnt b blowing cold air if it was over charged im thinking mycompressor is bad or electric issue
Last edited by b20bFourDoorCivicLX; 10-06-2013 at 03:20 PM.
#15
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
You're never going to know if you have proper charge of a/c refrigerant if you don't use a set of manifold gauges to properly measure both the high and low side pressure while it's running. You said your car has "1.2 of freon" in it right now? 1.2 what? pounds? ounces? your system should contain a grand total of 7-1/3 oz. of oil (4 oz. of which should be contained in the compressor) and around ~22 oz. of R134a refrigerant.
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
today i went back. complained it was still over charged. they said ok they dont care about refilling over removing ,they are trying to help im just confused why they dont know it was over charged the first time? because since they have removed 4 ounces it feels way better but still at parking speeds the idle is un-bearable the idle will drop to 100-200
as of right now it has 1lb of freon 16oz he said
as of right now it has 1lb of freon 16oz he said
Last edited by b20bFourDoorCivicLX; 10-06-2013 at 05:58 PM.
#18
Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
Sounds like you should remove the throttle body and clean it real good. Get a new t-body gasket (or 2) and also TPS gasket. Also, remove the TPS break-away (tamper-proof) screws so you can replace that gasket and also calibrate the TPS. Those screws are M5 size. I prefer aluminum Allen head type, but you can find them in Hex type steel, too.
When you go to reassemble, first adjust your throttle stop screw to stop the plate right at the edge before closing the butterfly entirely. Use a feeler gauge and maybe look up the specs. After you clean, tune, and install the t-body, adjust the TPS. You need to have it installed and the ignition on to calibrate the TPS. Get a volt meter and Google how-to Honda TPS or something. Adjusting the TPS is like adjusting the distributor timing. Nudge, check, tighten, nudge, check, tighten, repeat.
When you go to reassemble, first adjust your throttle stop screw to stop the plate right at the edge before closing the butterfly entirely. Use a feeler gauge and maybe look up the specs. After you clean, tune, and install the t-body, adjust the TPS. You need to have it installed and the ignition on to calibrate the TPS. Get a volt meter and Google how-to Honda TPS or something. Adjusting the TPS is like adjusting the distributor timing. Nudge, check, tighten, nudge, check, tighten, repeat.
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Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
Sounds like you should remove the throttle body and clean it real good. Get a new t-body gasket (or 2) and also TPS gasket. Also, remove the TPS break-away (tamper-proof) screws so you can replace that gasket and also calibrate the TPS. Those screws are M5 size. I prefer aluminum Allen head type, but you can find them in Hex type steel, too.
When you go to reassemble, first adjust your throttle stop screw to stop the plate right at the edge before closing the butterfly entirely. Use a feeler gauge and maybe look up the specs. After you clean, tune, and install the t-body, adjust the TPS. You need to have it installed and the ignition on to calibrate the TPS. Get a volt meter and Google how-to Honda TPS or something. Adjusting the TPS is like adjusting the distributor timing. Nudge, check, tighten, nudge, check, tighten, repeat.
When you go to reassemble, first adjust your throttle stop screw to stop the plate right at the edge before closing the butterfly entirely. Use a feeler gauge and maybe look up the specs. After you clean, tune, and install the t-body, adjust the TPS. You need to have it installed and the ignition on to calibrate the TPS. Get a volt meter and Google how-to Honda TPS or something. Adjusting the TPS is like adjusting the distributor timing. Nudge, check, tighten, nudge, check, tighten, repeat.
#20
Re: Help a/c problems b20 swap
And also, when the AC kicks on, the ECU also kicks the idle speed up a notch. I think it uses the IACV to do so.
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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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09-19-2013 12:37 PM