im having some trouble understanding whats the proper way to start adjusting parameters

when you start from a stock basemap in my case b18b1 map for b20b

do I adjust the fuel multiplier until the idle is at 14.7 and then increase the part throttle and the rest of the maps?

or do I adjust the fuel trim until most of the map is close to 14.7 and then decrease the idle fuel?

 

I adjust main fueling trim at first start (which is typically cold start) to 13.5-14.0. This calibrates the rest of the map to the engine so you don't have to make a lot of unnecessary changes to the actual fuel mapping.

I then check battery offsets once it is warm by turning on every electrical component and making necessary. adjustments to the offsets related to the voltage.

I then start driving the car and make large "block" adjustments which I can fine tune later.

Smooth maps are clean and help the engine run better. On the 2d map, lines should NEVER cross. Touch in some portions but never cross. You are looking for a flow or look to the shape of the map.

If you have adjustable fuel pressure, play with it and see how it changes the shape of the map. You will start to notice patterns. If at 15"/3500rpm it goes lean the load point above and below are likely going to want the same "shape"

I hope that makes sense

 

yep thanks

 

this is what 98vtec means by smooth and has a "flow", these are my fuel and ignition maps in 2d and 3d fine tuned to a T:

 

part of the "flow" of things to also notice, is that as load increases, dips and peaks slowly shift to lower rpms. this is due to the speed of sound being slower at low load (low pressure) and faster at higher load (higher pressure), which very much affects airflow going into an engine.

 

but how is your afr tables with map like that?

when I did mine smooth there were spots that didn't have the best afr

all 3 of my tunes were not smootn on graphs but afrs were on point

 

dead nut. perfect 14.65-14.75 from 11" down (occasional 14.8-14.9 at 21" when intake mani is heatsoaked), gradual fade to 13.0 between 11" and 0", 12.3 up to 4psi, 12.0 up to 7psi, 11.7 up to 10psi. stays stable at exactly those af's at all rpms.

it's consistent enough that I can tell by the af guage if I get even a single misfire. which I actually did start getting at random yesterday, but that's because I need to readjust my valve lash, as a few valves are a bit too tight now as the head has broken in.

 

free manual in my sig. read up.