has anyone done any kind of serious all motor builds on a crv


I was thinking how would a 2 liter vtec with a deck plate would be like in a crv

can the 4wd be locked or made into switchable to disengage the rear wheels or maybe made into a rwd only?

 

Well a B20 Vtec lots of people do and it makes a big difference. I'll be doing one to my wifes V at some point. Mine is just a stock 98 spec ITR engine and then boost.

 

I have a B18c, not a whole lot done to it, just Skunk2 Intake manifold. Not a ton of torque but plenty in the upper band, Vtec and gets 33 MPG

 

im talking about all motor build close to 300whp will the 4wd tranny even hold up to that much power?

I bet it would be a blast to drive and smash on unsuspecting ricers and domestics

cuz crv has enough clearance to do a deck plate of any height and any kind of crazy custom intake manifold and header
so much more room in the engine bay

 

I have been at this for a very long time and I have no clue what you are getting at talking about a deck plate

You won't be able to get 300whp in any sort of streetable manner. You are better off with a mild turbo setup if you want that sort of power on the street

 

I said close to 300 there are few local people with daily b series with well over 250whp on their sleeved b series setups I just thought it would be insane to have that in a crv

deck plate I think its called

that raises the deck height of the block

check this thread

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/look-out-b-series-350-whp-all-motor-3168721/
that motor in a crv would be insane

 

You would need to but a block guard in the b20 most likely to run that kind of power the walls are to thin for that power with out one.

 

hell no lol im talking about decked and sleeved block with stroker kit and everythin .

the types of engines people be putting in crx and hatchbacks. would love to see a build like that in a crv

 

Once you start getting past that 100hp per liter mark you start losing street ability.

And yes, some sort of cylinder support would be needed for the b20. I'd personally go with the cncwerx CSS though over the block guard. It looks very similar but is incredibly different.

 

no were talking about 2 different things
deck plate adds to the cylinder length u use aftermarket sleeves.
essentially what Honda did with b16b giving it better rod/stroke ratio.

crv has enough space under the hood to do any kind of deck height without hood clearance issues


I donno about streetability. jdm ITR with boltons pushes out over 100WHP per liter

a 250whp sleeved 2 liter gsr is at 125WHP per liter and they are still reasonable daily drivers

even b16b is above 100hp per liter

 

I said "start" losing street ability. All engines handle it differently. And yea, I get the deck thing, I got distracted and forgot all about that while typing my reply. Lol. Damn ADD. :/

 

I'm also intrigued by this question. Just the power limitations of the 4WD systems.
Even if it wasn't the b20b, I don't specifically care about the engine itself, just the drivetrain.

 

In N/A form I think you'd have a hard time hurting the drivetrain from just power alone. If you start drag racing and launching at the track, then you may end up with some issues. ASSuming we are talking about the manual tranny's.

 

yea manual. i dont see much research in this topic.
are the gears same as other b series trannys or is it the differential that is different here. maybe a custom one with some kind of locking mechanism would be good

then it will be a nice sti killer.

 

I'm sure it's an LS tranny with a transfer case added.

 

gearing is close to gsr... somebody did post the different gearing of all Bseries tranny here before,
as for reliability.. im my expreience, almost 2years of running my V in 320hp 280tq no issues, knock on wood!
ive blown 3 b20 already w/ that tranny and transfer case... i just replace the fluids after miles
of heavy driving.. especially if its track season, i do roadcourse and autoX my V! as for auto
tranny i know somebody before who did autoX and rallyX his V before and its his real track car...
dlarsoncrv, no issues from him too...
i guess its all about the driving and driver, may be drag purpose might hurt it more than track/roadcourse...

 

i had a built gsr in my crv with boost. Eagle rods, JE pistons, acl race bearings, ferra full valve train, arp everything, ect, ect. was running 18 lbs of boost with hondata s300 and a holset h1c big turbo.

 

Just did some research. 1st and 3rd are closer to Gsr than anything else, but the final drive and everything else is pretty far off from every other B tranny.

 

Here's my buddies crv with a Jdm b18c, skunk2 manifold, stock Jdm gsr obd2 ecu.

 

umm yea that engine is gonna die


1 3200lb car + towing a boat + 3/4 people and trunk full of bags + racing = engine failure.

 

Nah been running strong for almost 3 years now

 

yea, don't know how that thing is still running, but impressive nonetheless.

 

To the OP you wont know until you try it, as for the engine the crv above hauling the boat, that shouldn't be a problem. I haul my two atv's up the grape vine about 6 times a year for the past2 years without problems and that's on a stock B20B giving it hell up the hill. My CRV is a 98' EX 4wd manual both car and engine are at 176k, i will be going to B18C after this years smog check, because I miss vtec.

 

Amount of load on the engine doesn't matter that much when the engine is basically stock with a safe factory tune. Now, put a turbo on and pull a boat, you may have an issue. It's all about an engine that can transfer combustion heat to the coolant. The more power you make the more difficult that becomes. A proper tune helps in not creating more heat than what can be dissipated.

 

wrong, H and F series internals