PLM toda header pics?
anyone have pics of their toda header or toda rep header on a b16 motor? im looking to get one and i wanna see the ground Clearance they have. Im sure since they are a 4-2-1 header it should be fine compared to a 4-1
thx guys
thx guys
would depend on how much your car is lowered but yes they have better clearance then the 4-1. my 4-1 is pretty banged up sadly in just a 6 months time span
where you order yours from?
thats tru my bad my car is lowered an inch and a quarter in the front and an inch and a half in the back. i think i have good clearance for a toda header don cha think? bro thx for your help too man youve always replied to my posts
I searched ebay and found a "best offer" and I offered 320 and it was accepted in 30 mins.
you can try 300 and see where that gets you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toda-Style-B...ef9edc&vxp=mtr
you can try 300 and see where that gets you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toda-Style-B...ef9edc&vxp=mtr
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mine was legit. Has the PLM logo between 2&3 runner, showed up in the white box PLM uses.
The box was pretty banged up, header was fine. The useless flange gasket was missing, but the donut was in there.
I would recommend to use studs with red loctite instead of the OEM screws.
The box was pretty banged up, header was fine. The useless flange gasket was missing, but the donut was in there.
I would recommend to use studs with red loctite instead of the OEM screws.
mine was legit. Has the PLM logo between 2&3 runner, showed up in the white box PLM uses.
The box was pretty banged up, header was fine. The useless flange gasket was missing, but the donut was in there.
I would recommend to use studs with red loctite instead of the OEM screws.
The box was pretty banged up, header was fine. The useless flange gasket was missing, but the donut was in there.
I would recommend to use studs with red loctite instead of the OEM screws.
well, this should be self explanatory, but since you need it broken down like a fraction..
Your head is made of aluminum, a soft metal
The screws that go into the header are made of harder metal, iron or stainless.
Taking these screws in and out of the head will fatigue the threads and make them prone to stripping.
Swapping the screws for studs and adding loc-tite will keep the threads safe and you can have many many enjoyable experiences torquing your header in the far far future.
Edit: Im also betting you havent ordered your header yet
Your head is made of aluminum, a soft metal
The screws that go into the header are made of harder metal, iron or stainless.
Taking these screws in and out of the head will fatigue the threads and make them prone to stripping.
Swapping the screws for studs and adding loc-tite will keep the threads safe and you can have many many enjoyable experiences torquing your header in the far far future.
Edit: Im also betting you havent ordered your header yet
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