I have 92 accord with F18B swapped in it. The car is showing strange behavior. I have done following

1. Throttle Body Service
2. TPS Replacement (0.5 - 3.2V max but sensor alone goes to 5.0V within throttle body even with adjursment it only makes to 3.2V only)
3. Cleaned Idle Control Valve.
4. Cleaned a pump or valve what ever it is below throttle Body
5. Serviced Injectors and rail

Now When car starts it dances from 1k to 1500. If you put Load AC or in drive it stays to 900.

When car is hot (temp gauge in middle) strange behavior is shown

Without AC RPM are 700
With AC and No Drive RPM are 600
With AC and Drive RPM are 550-600

Now what is correct direction to proceed?
What is the problem with the throttle BodY why it cant make TPS swing to its Max?

Note my engine has removed EVAP and its vacuum holes are blocked.

 

"2. TPS Replacement (0.5 - 3.2V max but sensor alone goes to 5.0V within throttle body even with adjursment it only makes to 3.2V only)"

What does this mean ? Are you aligning the little black piece correctly inside the throttle body ? If you can make a video showing your adjustment procedure that would be best.

 

Yes. Old sensor broke so i installed new one.
I adjust it in following way.
1. Loose Upper and Lower Screws.
2. Have Helper press the throttle to the floor inside the car
3. Rotate the TPS in such a way that you get 4.5 volts reading on volt meter
4. no matter how much you adjust the reading does not exceed 3.5 max where as if sensor is not installed in throttle body and you rotate its shaft it goes to max 5 volts

i would try and make a short video

 

Just follow this. Do everything except where he says to adjust the throttle stop screw. Don't mess with the throttle stop screw.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/diy-how-calibrating-voltage-your-tps-sensor-2947986/

 

I Followed the Instructions. The Thing that was preventing it was Kick Down Cable. I removed it and the Max can now go to 4.3 Volts when it reaches this state.

The WOT is 4.3 Volts and Close Throttle is 0.59

Now that surging is gone but if you press the throttle it surges once or sometime twice before coming back to 750.

If you put on AC and In Drive the car maintains 750.

Interesting Symptom
1. When i drove the car 5-6 km then the idle totally changed. Now it would stay 600 with AC and in Drive....... When you stop the RPM drops below 500;just before stalling it comes back to 600.....
2. If i set the Idle Control Screw not Throttle Stop Screw, nothing happens no rpm change no matter you rotate full right or left.

Now what is the correct direction to proceed.

Thanks

 

You need to get it to .50

what the max opening voltage is isn't as important as closed voltage

To set base idle, unplug the iacv connector and adjust the idle adjust screw to get your idle to between 500 - 600. You just need to keep turning the screw in to get it there.

Keep in mind, and this is very important, the very first big line after 0 rpms is 500 rpms not 200 rpms. Many people, including myself at some point, didn't realize this.

I think you just need to keep screwing the idle adjust screw in. At some point the idle will go down as you close off the air enough. On my very own jdm engine I got my idle adjust screw all the way in and my idle sits at 575 or so.

 

Okies I would re tune it. If I Unplug the Idle Control Valve the car starts surging at 1000 and 1300 it wont never comes below 1000 even with full screw closed.............

In regards to 500 Line got it

 

if you unplug the iacv and the idle doesn't get below 1000 then you have a vacuum leak somewhere

get some carb cleaner and spray around the intake manifold and components until the idle changes and that means you found the leak

 

yes i also think this is vacuum leak because when i accelerate i hear a whistle sound