So I decided to post a build thread for my car. The car is my daily driver, and will soon be getting a new set of DDTECH cams. I don't have all the pics to post yet but this should give you an idea.
H23A Blue Top
ITR Transmission with LS 5th
Euro R intake
3 inch Velocity stack
Logic tri-Y Headers (pics taken with PLM tri Y header which is a bad-*** header in case you didn't know)
Exedy stage 1 clutch
Competition flywheel
2.25 inside diameter stainless exhaust and High flow cat with e-cutout
QSD H2B kit
Skunk2 pro1 (pics taken with stock cams)
AEM Cam gears
Hush22 hydro conversion (Pics taken with Hasport conversion installed)
ESP traction bar and alternator bracket
Hondata intake Gasket
KS balance shaft elimination
KS manual tensioner
Oil bung relocation
OBD1 Tuned by J.Mills











Stock cam tune

Pro1 Tune

 

Damn nice dude!

Post this in h2b discussion thread also

 

Also I would switch to a 3" exhaust

 

nice swap is super clean

 

Thanks guys! I decided to go with the e-cutout instead of the 3 inch. Its a money thing, plus the remote powered e-cutout is a pretty cool feature. Maybe I'll switch it up in the future. I'll post some more pics of the car put together, the custom hood I made, and finally the DDTECH dyno when I get the cams. I'll also post this in the H2B thread as well.

 

nice setup bro, I'm doing a similar swap in a 88hf with an xcessive mfg. intake mani rmf replica header Rdx injectors and walbro 400...also did you have an issues with the alternator bracket?

 

You don't need the Walbro if your OEM unit is good and you are running pump gas. That would probably be a waste of money, plus those things are noisy. lol Also you will probably be okay on stock injectors unless you are running E85, methanol, or really high compression. I had to cut out some stuff to get the OEM Alternator bracket to work, plus it was an unusual procedure changing belts. see PIC: This is how I put my friends to work LOL love you Billy!



I went with the ESP Bracket, and its pretty much perfect. Also you should buy my cams. They are for sale here and on EBAY. The 88HF is the best chassis though if you are looking for light EF. I wish I had one to build for a drag car. The RMF replica is a good header and proven power maker. I think that https://www.facebook.com/www.AHRacin...eline&filter=1 sells them already modified for H2b. If you have any tech questions about the swap you can PM me.
Also I have a EuroR with fuel rail adapter if you want that instead of the excessive. (I am moving to a custom ported OEM one) I haven't seen any comparison dynos with the Excessive intake on the H series. I would really like to know how it does.

 

Dig the setup nice work!

Walbro 400 would be pretty crazy... considering guys making 500 whp on 255 Walbro HP's. You will be fine with a 190 or 255 for boosted reasons later on. Stock motor has like 80 whp your more then doubling it and a upgraded fuel pump is recommended...

 

Thanks Buddy. I know you are digging that SEXY traction bar right? lol Good work man! The 400 would be nuts, but the 255 is pretty common and more than enough for what most folks do. My 20+ year stock unit is doing great right now, but when it goes I'll upgrade too. Surprising that its doing so well considering the vast difference in engine size and 150 additional BHP. I still get 30+ mpgs!!!! lolz Got to love Honda.
BTW thanks for all the help you gave me with the recommendations on dizzy set up, traction bar, and alternator bracket.

 

This ^

 

dont get a ktuned traction bar thats all I can tell ya, i'd go with full race

mine dint like the 24.5x9.0x13 launch @7000 hehe








http://s496.photobucket.com/user/blu...bf505.mp4.html
http://s496.photobucket.com/user/blu...17169.mp4.html
^^VIDEOS


resulted into excessive wheels movement, worn slicks due to messed up alignement.. still ran 11.84@116mph

they totally sucks. heres some photos of the new one they sent to me for waranty

 

WOW. Holly crap, what a piece of garbage. That thing bended like a friggin boomerang. Look at those welds and alignment... I would freak out if I paid for that. Oh well at least they have a warranty. Looks like you'll be breaking out the mig and grinder on that one... Sucks bro.
So those 9 inch 24.5's (Where did you get 24.5, I only seen 24's) hook up well at a 7K launch? Nice wide tires and with that 13 inch, you have plenty of wall to stretch. BTW CONGRATS on breaking well into the 11's on that stock bottom end. Time to celebrate.

 

yeah haha I was sooo happy i felt that run was strong when I passed the line @ 7900rpm instead of 7600 it was an awesome day!

Yes I cut the side brackets from the new ktunedshit tractionbar to weld my own and I did some more modifications

if the track is well prepared yes it sticks as hell..! the day I made my fist 11's passes i was launching at 5000

 

That's why we went with esp traction bar, thing is tough

 

Good choice.

 

I bet you were happy. Maybe one day I can join the 11 second all motor pump gas club... but we'll see. It sucks that you must spend all that time doing fabrication work, but in the end it will probably be stronger than just about anything else you can buy on the market. Almost no one will spend the time and effort that a capable owner will on their own car. I should be getting those cams in a couple of weeks so I'll keep you posted on that too since I know you interested in the DDTECS.
Also I will be adding my ported OEM and selling the EuroR. I went with Randy Owens type design so I hope it agrees with my set up. Here is the Lower plenum area. I had the backside fill welded, then I ported the runners, ported and cut the upper , and re-shaped and used the butterfly plate as a spacer.

 

This is awesome, i wish i could locate a decent condition rex, truly one of the awesomest hondas ever made!

 

Thanks. You can find a good deal on them sometimes, you just got to be patient. I think I paid 3500 for my SI with 80,000 original miles, working AC, no tears in the seats, very little rust, and bone stock except 99 SI wheels. Drove it stock for 7 years or so and then built it.

 

Bouckaroo, I am torn between telling you you have too many projects already, and thinking a CRX would be a great candidate for that K you just picked up!

I have debated a CRX or EF hatch with one of my other Hs I have.

 

I wish i could have a rex to my k into, although i knwo i have too many things on the go, but my prelude for all intents and purposes needs the most attention however until i get it sent and back from golden eagle, theres not much for me to do on it. Now that i have fabricated a shifter base mount for my hatchback and have gotten the injectors switched back to stock and a p13 in it, it runs like a top, so unless iw nat to do body work, that one is done for now, until suspension parts come in.

The k20z3, well, i really want to get a old 72+ era civic to put it into, but damn, finding one thats in decent shape is harder than i thought, so if i could get a CRX, id do it in a heart beat. So if you know anyone.....

 

Subscribing.

Are you getting rid of the charcoal canister and deleting crap in the bay at all? Also what trans are you using?

 

Already done. The pictures are old. The map and the canister are gone as is the clutch cable. There has not been a tuck yet so the fuel filter, harness and fuse box are still in their stock locations. I don't know if I will ever do a tuck on it. I may, but it depends on the time I have available. The car runs perfectly and looks pretty good, not a show car, but its pretty clean. I may be building a D16A6 (non-vtec) Turbo so that will take up my free time. Here some other pics. 2 are before the cam swap and custom hood.

 

What kind of work did you have to do to the frame rails to get the h to fit? Im asking as i use to havem, years ago a crx with a B R motor and to get it to fit i had to take a mallet and smash in the driver frame rail about 3/4 inch to get the crank pulley to fit without rubbing. Is this the case with the H motor too?

 

Yes, I used a sledge hammer. Also, I removed the balance shafts. I removed the gear that the balance shaft belt ran on. I then machined down the engine side of the single pulley harmonic balancer (It probably would have fit without the machining). I then slid the harmonic balancer (AKA crank pulley)up against the timing gear. Since the surface of the harmonic balancer was machined down, it was wide enough to act as a belt keeper for the timing bet. I then placed a spacer (from mcmaster.com. 30965A213 is the part number.) over the harmonic balancer on the crank end and called it a day. Here is a link that shows the order in which the spacer and the pulley go on in order to make the most clearance. https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/h2b-f2b-faq-1998426/ Mine has more clearance than the car in the picture of this thread. Also if you use a S2K harmonic balancer, since the diameter is smaller and you will get additional room to work with.

 

Awesome!! Great work man and thank you for the link, that is great information that i probably never would have ever seen had you not posted that.